Chris ,
Fact is there is some/many p2p connections , doesn't matter where , why , how , when , they could have chosen only pcb , they did not
and finally they got to the moon , as it is
cheaper , modern , newer etc.. , doesn't mean always better , that is my point , and that is what I reacted to
.
Fact is there is some/many p2p connections , doesn't matter where , why , how , when , they could have chosen only pcb , they did not
and finally they got to the moon , as it is
cheaper , modern , newer etc.. , doesn't mean always better , that is my point , and that is what I reacted to
.
Damn, that "ignore user" feature sure comes in handy
ignore user or ignore reality , man you see the world as your bias tell you , well they seems to be so powerful
if you want to see more , much more, much much more , stop to ignore and learn
.
One more , you forgot the I , in front of your words
remember , learning is the way , it's our way , it's the only way
.
Small update:
My Preference order:
1. Nichicon Superthrough (Grade 3): Very transparent...but can become a bit lean/tight (not dry though, tone is there in a very natual way) as well
2. Nichicon Goldtune (grade2): Transparent, but not at the same level...warmer sounding, fuller / not as tight
3. Mundorf lytic 2 pole: Somehwhat transparent and wamr "sound", but it is a bit giving an impression like a loudness effect without matching the real, natural transparence of the Nichicon
4. Even more a sound machine & fun machine as well: Elna Silmic. Plays like a LP12; Nice music rhytmn, but byfar not as transparent as any of those above...and a significant own sound, the least neutral one as well...but if your system needed this effect, can be fun.
In the front as a first Cap before the choke, I tried a small 680uF cap, which changes the sound of the LC-PSU. You can increase it and have less energy / / leaner tone but more fine resolution.
I switched the 680uF superthrough against a 500uF Polyprop DC-Link-Cap: More natural, softer tone. A matter of taste. DC-Voltage was always adopted to the same output-voltage by an auto-transformer Application waas the filament heating of 801A and Gm70-Direct heated triodes using a Lt4320 ideal bridge supply).
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I checked several electrolytics for their sound but could not hear anything. Even close to my ears: Nothing - total silence - no sound at all!
But I observed with the lytics too close to my ears the sound from my HiFi gets a bit muddy, looses transparency in the upper mids and the 3D image shrinks to about 1.2D
Specially in case my hearing aids are running out of battery power
But I observed with the lytics too close to my ears the sound from my HiFi gets a bit muddy, looses transparency in the upper mids and the 3D image shrinks to about 1.2D
Specially in case my hearing aids are running out of battery power
Cornell CDE 947D
https://www.cde.com/resources/catalogs/947D.pdf
I compared half a dozen of DC-Link Caps (befure Mondurf Tubcaps) and that is my favourite after many months of comparison. The smallest is 1300V/130uF....around 60 Euro I believe....1.9mOhm...30nH....350000h at 60degree...
Compared to prices of blackgate a joke...and later you can upgrafe to GM-70/845 and a like as these can really go high in voltage. I switched from 300B to 845 to 813 to Gm70...with the same PSU (power-xformer with multiple taps) and the same iron (different secondary setting and a bit oversized from the beginnig on...plus I figured -to my surprise - that my speaker in reality do not need much more than 10 W).
https://www.cde.com/resources/catalogs/947D.pdf
I compared half a dozen of DC-Link Caps (befure Mondurf Tubcaps) and that is my favourite after many months of comparison. The smallest is 1300V/130uF....around 60 Euro I believe....1.9mOhm...30nH....350000h at 60degree...
Compared to prices of blackgate a joke...and later you can upgrafe to GM-70/845 and a like as these can really go high in voltage. I switched from 300B to 845 to 813 to Gm70...with the same PSU (power-xformer with multiple taps) and the same iron (different secondary setting and a bit oversized from the beginnig on...plus I figured -to my surprise - that my speaker in reality do not need much more than 10 W).
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Transparent is the most important characteristic. Very neutral, fast, transparent. They make your PSU disappear better. I combine them with 872A mercury rectifier for the power tubes and rgn1064/az1 mesh for the driver section. Plus custom made amorphous and nano chokes from our friend 50AE (Alexander). This sounded better to me than any shunt reg, be it silicon or tube based. It gives a very dynamic, transparent sounds with tons of fine resolution with a very natural tone. It breaks the typical tradeoff game: More resolution equals less tone. Here you get both, its simply mire natural and transparent sounding then anything else I tried over the years....and I spend several years with Mundorf tubecaps (which are as well impregnated with a lytic), Motoroilers like asc386 (Thomas Mayer), Vintage Paper in Oil etcetcetc.
When you try this combination without changing your circuit or bias points at all, I guarantee you an effect going up in resolution like going from DVD to bluray or 4k. The PSU is the foundation of everything and it is astonishing, how much happens here without changing the actual circuit or bias.
When you try this combination without changing your circuit or bias points at all, I guarantee you an effect going up in resolution like going from DVD to bluray or 4k. The PSU is the foundation of everything and it is astonishing, how much happens here without changing the actual circuit or bias.
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