That's a good approach IMHO and you can achieve fantastic results with computer audio, DCX and a 2.1 system.
Let's stay on topic, regarding the choice of speakers and amplifiers you can ask in their respective subforums.
Subwoofer integration is a perfect task for the DCX. After you set the crossover parameters according to measurement or your liking you can adjust the delay (in meters or mm) between the main speakers and the sub, and also continuously adjust the phase of the subwoofer. This is the key in making the subwoofer disappear and achieving the illusion that the bass is coming from the main speakers only. It's quite remarkable how the phase of the subwoofer can affect the overall depth and width of the sound picture.
Don't be scared. Get your speakers and amplifiers, set up the DCX and enjoy them. By the time you are familiar with them you'll have the time to learn a lot more about audio. For now use what is easy to you but make a mental note to try different operating systems, USB interfaces to DCX and modifications to it later on.
Hi thanks a lot for your very helpful advice.
Sorry to have to ask again, but if my stream is 16/44.1 i need some upscaling to get that 24 bit depth ? i am quite ignorant of these things.
My files are max 16/48. Not high rez at all.
Can i still use the volume control provided in the SW player ?
Thanks again, gino
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You should be OK by setting the output format to 24 bits - the player should automatically zero-pad the input material (not really upscaling) and use (at least) 24 bits for the volume control, but a lot depends on what sound system and what player software you use.
Thanks a lot again ! i did not catch all but nevertheless the idea is very intriguing
About the number of the subs to use i have an advice from a JL Audio guy who told me that for stereo, and to keep cost reasonable, better two small than just one big.
Of course to have just one sub in the center and L and R speakers would be nice.
And also the x-over point in the bass is an issue, especially with just one sub of course.
Or not ? what would you choose ? one big or two smaller ? 🙄
two big is not fair ... 😀
I could have already everything, aside the subs.
I have already two little Tannoy monitors that i like with a 8" DC
I need the sub/subs ... of course just one would be nice.
But how mix L and R and send it to the only sub ? I am confused.
Thanks again, gino
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Hi and thanks again and perfect ! i understand it can be done.
This is important. I could use/buy a player that provide this feature of course. But it is important to understand that it can be done.
Kindest regards, gino
O, and make sure that the sound card or usb interface supports 24bit digital out so if you use a 24 bit volume control it doesn't get converted to 16 bit again on the way to the DCX...
I'm using one huge, and using EQ, phase and delay settings in the DCX it is integrated quite well with the main speakers, you can't tell if there is a sub sitting there in the room. You have to calculate what SPL can your speakers achieve and select subwoofer(s) to match that SPL without exceeding their power handling or maximum excursion. That depends how low do you want them to play. 20 Hz is quite hard to reach with low enough distortion at realistic levels, but say 35 is more manageable. I.e. one peerless XXLS12 costs just a bit more than one XXLS10, so one sub would be cheaper. Also two 10' in this example give around the same max SPL as one 12'. Some will argue that two smaller will sound better because of their smaller size and smaller moving mass and I tend to agree with them in this example. However there are ways to avoid this with lager speakers.
As the subwoofer I use is no longer in production I would choose the two sub approach and in your case I would choose 2 10" XXLS if you have the funds. You are going to build your subs, right?
The DCX does that for you. I suggest you read the manual.
Thanks a lot again. I start to get the full picture.
But with just one big ... which L and R ? i mean i can have a cut at let's say 150-200 Hz and still perceive the sound as a whole with just one sub ?
that would be extremely nice indeed.
I can put the sub under the tv in center and i will be done ... nice !
i still do not know .... i see some PA subs on the 2nd market very tempting
like 15" 😱 ... that would be a very good bass
40-50 Hz is ok ... cannot shake the house walls ...
perfect ! no more question ... only the one about the L and R speakers.
I would like to use from 150 Hz up ... is it ok ?
In this way teh choice would be pretty immense ... any good pair will work fine.
And this could very well be my definitive system. I feel it.
Thanks a lot again.
Kind regards, gino
There is no need to cross a hi-fi speaker too high, or at all. Lower crossower frequencies make adjusting the subwoofer less critical and higher improve the power handling of the main speakers. But I guess you are not concentrated on highest SPL but sound quality.
You can have one subwoofer and still have the complete soundstage right - it takes a bit of experimenting with phase settings though.
I advise you against buying a PA speaker with unknown theile/small parameters, a 15" tuned to 50 Hz will rock the house but you will soon miss the lower frequencies at normal listening levels. You can EQ a 15" PA driver to behave nicely (that's what I did) but not without a closed box and some knowledge about speaker building.
If you choose to build your own sub with a well known driver I'm sure you'll get all the help you need here (aside from acctually building the box...)
Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
You can have one subwoofer and still have the complete soundstage right - it takes a bit of experimenting with phase settings though.
I advise you against buying a PA speaker with unknown theile/small parameters, a 15" tuned to 50 Hz will rock the house but you will soon miss the lower frequencies at normal listening levels. You can EQ a 15" PA driver to behave nicely (that's what I did) but not without a closed box and some knowledge about speaker building.
If you choose to build your own sub with a well known driver I'm sure you'll get all the help you need here (aside from acctually building the box...)
Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
I have an update on my power supply upgrade project.
I measured the power consumption of each rail under operation, driving amplifiers, digital in and 7% free DSP resource
5V 370 mA - digital supply
3.3V 280 mA - logic supply
8V 330 mA - supply for the two 7805s feeding the ADCs and DACs
I didn't measure the ±15 V rails as I don't and won't be using them.
This gives me the data needed to calculate the shunts - I'll use four with a fifth feeding the WaveIO.
It is a good time to replace the SMPS as some of the electrolythics are a bit bulged.
Now I'm off to the drawing board and the power supply forum to come up with a layout that will fit in the footprint of the free space in the DCX. I'll make the box taller and cut some ventillation holes to manage the heat.
I still have to measure the voltage of the LCD contrast supply.
I'm really enjoyin this project so far and cant't wait to have the new PS operational 🙂
I measured the power consumption of each rail under operation, driving amplifiers, digital in and 7% free DSP resource
5V 370 mA - digital supply
3.3V 280 mA - logic supply
8V 330 mA - supply for the two 7805s feeding the ADCs and DACs
I didn't measure the ±15 V rails as I don't and won't be using them.
This gives me the data needed to calculate the shunts - I'll use four with a fifth feeding the WaveIO.
It is a good time to replace the SMPS as some of the electrolythics are a bit bulged.
Now I'm off to the drawing board and the power supply forum to come up with a layout that will fit in the footprint of the free space in the DCX. I'll make the box taller and cut some ventillation holes to manage the heat.
I still have to measure the voltage of the LCD contrast supply.
I'm really enjoyin this project so far and cant't wait to have the new PS operational 🙂
Yes, as Marko points out, just be sure that your soudcard will output 24 bit SPDIF. It's not hard, many do. Send that to the DCX and you are all set. Windows and other operating systems usually pass 24 bit no problem.
Hi and thanks a lot indeed again for the very helpful advice.
It is a very complex unit indeed. I will have a lot to read and hopefully learn.
Kind regards, gino
my dcx2496 with + 0.1ppm clock + dac sabre es9023+ low noise regulator + battery 7.4v 42000mah !!
This old unit continues to supprise me and make my music listening experience better and better the more I fiddle with it.
In the latest iteration I installed the WaveIO usb interface in the DCX as SPDIF input, the Selectronic clock and finished an all-out power supply upgrade. The result is quite fantastic. I listen to active two-way dipoles augmented with a large subwoofer and to me - the sound doesn't fall short when comparing it with many systems exibited on the local audio shows. Yes, Accutons do sound more precise and tube-powered full rangers sound sweeter but my system makes involving life-like soud that I adore and the soundstage is to die for.
For the PS I used Salas Reflector D shunts, 5V ones for digital, WaveIO and DAC section and a 3V3 one for digital. The shunts produce quite a bit different sound than simple linear supplies but do get warm. So I'll have to modify the case a bit to allow for heatsinks - I'll keep you up to date with pictures of the build. Right now it's in the rat's nest phase and the soldering on the board didn't go without a jumper or two to fix broken traces so here's only the picture of the board. And a few "white russians" in the regulators 🙂
Ps. with the upgrades there aren't any "frying egg" issues even at 24/96 files!
In the latest iteration I installed the WaveIO usb interface in the DCX as SPDIF input, the Selectronic clock and finished an all-out power supply upgrade. The result is quite fantastic. I listen to active two-way dipoles augmented with a large subwoofer and to me - the sound doesn't fall short when comparing it with many systems exibited on the local audio shows. Yes, Accutons do sound more precise and tube-powered full rangers sound sweeter but my system makes involving life-like soud that I adore and the soundstage is to die for.
For the PS I used Salas Reflector D shunts, 5V ones for digital, WaveIO and DAC section and a 3V3 one for digital. The shunts produce quite a bit different sound than simple linear supplies but do get warm. So I'll have to modify the case a bit to allow for heatsinks - I'll keep you up to date with pictures of the build. Right now it's in the rat's nest phase and the soldering on the board didn't go without a jumper or two to fix broken traces so here's only the picture of the board. And a few "white russians" in the regulators 🙂
Ps. with the upgrades there aren't any "frying egg" issues even at 24/96 files!
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Sorry to dissapoint you. Doing double-blind tests that would be relevant to you or another forum member would be extremly difficult for me. I don't have an unmodified DCX to compare to, I have too few audiophile friends to set up such a test either for listening or switching equipment. And if I posted a result would you still believe my word that I didn't make up the test or the result?
[ begin rant]
I invite you to Zagreb, just take your unmodified unit and I'll give you the opportunity to listen to my system with both units, witouth you knowing which is playing.
I'm not trying to be rude or mock you but want to point out the usefullness of a double-blind test results to you personaly if you have nobody who enjoys your trust to confirm the result.
This is my rant about double-blind testing and I don't want to offend you or anybody else with it. I noticed the double-blid flag being waved here many times and just needed to express my oppinion.
Here's what I do. I just read what other people say and judge that through my own set of experiences. That allows me to make an opinion about a matter without having to trust or distrust anyone in particular...
[/rant]
Now, you'll have to believe what I say ( or don't ). My modified unit does sound different than before I modified it based on what I remember. And I like the sound of the modified unit more. And I'm excited about it. That's all.
Just trying to understand your logic - so double-blind results are useless, because you have to trust someone, so instead you trust somebody else's subjective impressions?
No, you don't understand my logic. You got it wrong and this is not what I was implying. I don't want to share my personal views with you so I won't.
And we are waay off topic now.