Gustard resembles the Breeze unit that I use now to convert USB to SPDIF/coax (AKA sort of AES).
In my application (as per the other thread mentioned in post #4457), my critical requirement is a variable attenuation box with a knob near my chair. It could be either in the upstream digital end or the downstream analog end.
My current little box with 6 ganged pots must have some tracking errors between pots. That's a shortcoming of mechanical pots. But there's a swell device mentioned in other thread is named "Volume 8" is an active ganged 8-channel analog device, us$700.
B.
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Right.
Thanks for your essential insight: set amps' attenuations for super-loudness on full bars and then softer listening demands sacrificing only a bar or two of digits arriving in the digital stream, in proportion to how late at night it is in my house.
Much appreciated. Once again, gain management matters.
B.
Respectfully, here is a distortion measurement made at a low two bars input. The test circuit is long and includes a variety of quite elderly and cheap devices and rusty cables. The laptop feeds a USB-to-SPDIF/coax converter I found on eBay cheap, as the input is digital. Test is 10-20kHz, no kidding.
Perhaps speaking only for myself - and I like great music from my ESL speakers - .04% THD at just 2 bars meets my standards.
There is no need to bother to post the 10-20kHz FR.
B.
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W/the immense wealth of knowledge & experience on this thread, anyone know of a third party user manual?
I struggle w/Behr’s manual to setup my DCX Pro. At the moment using it to blend in subs for my HT’s L&R towers.
Side note: not my first rodeo w/active XOs, analog or digital.
Thanks in advance. Tony.
I struggle w/Behr’s manual to setup my DCX Pro. At the moment using it to blend in subs for my HT’s L&R towers.
Side note: not my first rodeo w/active XOs, analog or digital.
Thanks in advance. Tony.
Ha, ha, ha. The original was written in Estonian and translated to German by a Chinese contractor. To save money, Behringer translated from German to English using Google Translation (2010 version).
After you've spent a lot of time learning how it works (in 10 or so years, I understand more than 50% of the manual, I thing), you'll find it actually is reasonably factual.
Having said that, absolutely wonderful to use it for HiFi set-up and maintenance. Even if you disparage something about it (I don't), it is still immensely valuable tool. For example, you could figure out the best XO and then duplicate it with hard-wires.
For example, to do frequency plots on my tri-amp system, you simply mute 5 of the 6 channels with a few presses of the button.
After you've spent a lot of time learning how it works (in 10 or so years, I understand more than 50% of the manual, I thing), you'll find it actually is reasonably factual.
Having said that, absolutely wonderful to use it for HiFi set-up and maintenance. Even if you disparage something about it (I don't), it is still immensely valuable tool. For example, you could figure out the best XO and then duplicate it with hard-wires.
For example, to do frequency plots on my tri-amp system, you simply mute 5 of the 6 channels with a few presses of the button.
@bentoronto
So-o.. that’s a no? Trying to turn up the
“Low” output to the LR subs
Setting up Behr’s DEQ* wasn’t easy but most functions, for me anyway, no manual required. DBX’s DRPA/X** & PA2*** for me, almost intuitive.
* pro setup
**PA: Ctr Ch & Surrounds PX: DJ setup.
***LR towers
Enough of my sniveling.
So-o.. that’s a no? Trying to turn up the
“Low” output to the LR subs
Setting up Behr’s DEQ* wasn’t easy but most functions, for me anyway, no manual required. DBX’s DRPA/X** & PA2*** for me, almost intuitive.
* pro setup
**PA: Ctr Ch & Surrounds PX: DJ setup.
***LR towers
Enough of my sniveling.
Honestly I just used the Windows app to control the damn thing. It's incredibly buggy but still better than reading the manual or trial and error. There's also Android app that I haven't tried so can't comment
Windows App?/
I just wish I'd the presence of mind and the forethought to put an extension cable into the socket but I'm not moving it now
I just wish I'd the presence of mind and the forethought to put an extension cable into the socket but I'm not moving it now
Here's a relevant thread:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/dcx2496-pc-software-under-windows-10-11.398388/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/dcx2496-pc-software-under-windows-10-11.398388/
Hi
I'm tuning my DCX2496. I use unbalanced outputs, so I removed the operational amplifiers at the balanced output, shortened the signal path and changed the element values to those suggested by the manufacturer AK4396 in datasheet. I still have AK4393 but I will soon replace it with AK4396. I installed sockets for the amplifiers so that they could be replaced and installed ne5532 (channels 1-4) and opa1612 (channels 5-6).
Since this modification, I have been struggling with the problem of strange, irregular signals on channels 2 and 4. The sound resembles tapping and rubbing a fingernail on the membrane, and sometimes crackling. Sometimes there is silence for two hours until it suddenly appears, and other times it happens right from the moment it is turned on. Has anyone encountered such a problem?
I'm tuning my DCX2496. I use unbalanced outputs, so I removed the operational amplifiers at the balanced output, shortened the signal path and changed the element values to those suggested by the manufacturer AK4396 in datasheet. I still have AK4393 but I will soon replace it with AK4396. I installed sockets for the amplifiers so that they could be replaced and installed ne5532 (channels 1-4) and opa1612 (channels 5-6).
Since this modification, I have been struggling with the problem of strange, irregular signals on channels 2 and 4. The sound resembles tapping and rubbing a fingernail on the membrane, and sometimes crackling. Sometimes there is silence for two hours until it suddenly appears, and other times it happens right from the moment it is turned on. Has anyone encountered such a problem?
Hi
Usually lose connections cause such problems, on one of my dcx I had to replace the 6 small caps just after the dacs, it had similar problems.
Cheers, Tom.
Usually lose connections cause such problems, on one of my dcx I had to replace the 6 small caps just after the dacs, it had similar problems.
Cheers, Tom.
I had the flat cable connector at output board side with lose connection. cheap Cina crap....
Yes, I changed all the connectors and ribbon cables on mine, two times already. Also, if it's silent for 2 hours and then starts crackling, it sounds like a result of thermal expansion, therefore likely a cold solder joint anywhere in the path, including the connector itself.
Maybe go for less cheap China stuff then? These days everything is made in China, from cheap crap to iphones to really high quality stuff.
I had a funny moment a couple of years ago buying some relays at a car spare parts shop. The guy behind the counter asked "do you want the cheaper Chinese one, or the more expensive Bosch one?". I had to point out that the Bosch part said "made in China" on the box...
Hi Guys
First of, sorry if I could have found the answer by reading through the 224 pages of this thread.
One of my old DCX2496 started to develop a problem where it sometimes wouldn't start and sometimes it forgot its custom settings and reset it self.
Now it never gets past the startup screen. It can however enter into programming mode. So I was thinking of trying to reinstall the drivers on the eeprom (V1.16).
What do you guys think and do anyone still have a copy of the 1.16 binary?
First of, sorry if I could have found the answer by reading through the 224 pages of this thread.
One of my old DCX2496 started to develop a problem where it sometimes wouldn't start and sometimes it forgot its custom settings and reset it self.
Now it never gets past the startup screen. It can however enter into programming mode. So I was thinking of trying to reinstall the drivers on the eeprom (V1.16).
What do you guys think and do anyone still have a copy of the 1.16 binary?
Hi
Try unplugging the plugs coming from front and plug it back in, can also be chipcrawl, push the big ic a little further in its socket, usually small things cause big problems...
Cheers, Tom.
Try unplugging the plugs coming from front and plug it back in, can also be chipcrawl, push the big ic a little further in its socket, usually small things cause big problems...
Cheers, Tom.
I think it's more likely noisy 5V from bad caps in the power supply. My DCX needed basically every electrolytic cap replaced. If you haven't recapped it, that is, IMO, the first thing you should do, and then see if any problem remains.
Thanks guys, that is some really good suggestions. It did try both of them a while ago based on some youtube litterature search. I did not recap the power supply however because it seemed to be giving stable and reasonable voltages.
After sitting on the shelf for a few weeks it now powers on consistently for some reason (i tested it before opening it) so now I am postponing the fix a bit. But an unstable power supply also seems to be a more logical answer to the problem than the eeprom suddenly failing because of corrupt data or something. If/when the problem returns I will give the power supply another go and test for loose connections as you suggest.
After sitting on the shelf for a few weeks it now powers on consistently for some reason (i tested it before opening it) so now I am postponing the fix a bit. But an unstable power supply also seems to be a more logical answer to the problem than the eeprom suddenly failing because of corrupt data or something. If/when the problem returns I will give the power supply another go and test for loose connections as you suggest.