Would it be possible for you to quickly sum up what the dimension, externally and internally, what your crossover is set to, how you made it, etc, etc. I don't know much about audio, but I know I want to build these, and fast to have them ready for my summer bash in nearly 1 month from now. If possible I would be ever so grateful.
Bravo EE!! Glad to see a pair of these built. 😀 You rock!
There are enormous, that's for sure.
I still want to build the (smaller) monolith version with the Hemp 8s. Maybe in a few months. But I don't think anyone is going to take away your FR crown, ever. Nice work.
There are enormous, that's for sure.
I still want to build the (smaller) monolith version with the Hemp 8s. Maybe in a few months. But I don't think anyone is going to take away your FR crown, ever. Nice work.
EEatKSU said:
I might be completely wrong (and if so I apologize) ... but IIRC, these won't do to well outdoors.
I love your QSC and maggies. 🙂
Creamedweasel said:
Currently they are crossover less, I have the parts on order to me from partsexpress to do a second order LR at 5khz, once that gets here I will post it.
If you want to drive down and pick them up you would only pay the parts cost. 🙂
jbush said:
Dang.... Hmmmm, I might have to wheel these things outside and try it out there for a test.
Thanks for the info (and the compliments)
-Ryan
Ryan,
Yes, I was also going to write you about that. The room walls form the final flare of the bass horn. In fact you are short changing yourself on the bass by not having them in the corners of the room, angled towards the listener. Soo they could be a LOT louder
if they were in the corners- or more relevently, they could be just as loud with a LOT less power....
Don't despair though, these speakers WILL work well in pretty big rooms, for dances, raves, etc, as long as the ceiling is only 8 or 10 feet high and they are in the corners..
If the ceiling is higher it might still work with say 10' and maybe a 4'x8' piece of ply angled above the top opening would help...
I was also curious about the crossover. I have a pair of those Fostex tweeters. Are they connected? It seems that you are saying they aren't . Are you using an active crossover?
a lot of people run tweeters with a wide-range using only a first order filter (ie a capacitor inline with the tweeter lead ) Obviously, running the tweets without a cap will just burn them right out. Usually people use about a 1uF cap, but that is for 6" or 8" "full range" drivers...
I suspect that you will need is going to be more like 2 uF or even larger. BUT keep in mind that the crossover slope is very gradual (6dB per octave I believe) so you can't cross them too low or they will have too much excursion down low and burn out. I would be careful of going lower than 3uF
Keep us informed..
Yes, I was also going to write you about that. The room walls form the final flare of the bass horn. In fact you are short changing yourself on the bass by not having them in the corners of the room, angled towards the listener. Soo they could be a LOT louder
if they were in the corners- or more relevently, they could be just as loud with a LOT less power.... Don't despair though, these speakers WILL work well in pretty big rooms, for dances, raves, etc, as long as the ceiling is only 8 or 10 feet high and they are in the corners..
If the ceiling is higher it might still work with say 10' and maybe a 4'x8' piece of ply angled above the top opening would help...
I was also curious about the crossover. I have a pair of those Fostex tweeters. Are they connected? It seems that you are saying they aren't . Are you using an active crossover?
a lot of people run tweeters with a wide-range using only a first order filter (ie a capacitor inline with the tweeter lead ) Obviously, running the tweets without a cap will just burn them right out. Usually people use about a 1uF cap, but that is for 6" or 8" "full range" drivers...
I suspect that you will need is going to be more like 2 uF or even larger. BUT keep in mind that the crossover slope is very gradual (6dB per octave I believe) so you can't cross them too low or they will have too much excursion down low and burn out. I would be careful of going lower than 3uF
Keep us informed..
It just occured to me- In a room with high ceilings, "just" turn them upside down and either attach legs to the outside to keep them a couple of feet off the floor or set them on sawhorses or hang them from chains something..
I would guess that about 30" off the floor is about right. You would need to tip them to point the drivers at the crowd though. Lots of possibilities of people being crushed so be careful!!
I would guess that about 30" off the floor is about right. You would need to tip them to point the drivers at the crowd though. Lots of possibilities of people being crushed so be careful!!
Creamedweasel :
This is the drawing that will answer most of your questions.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/bbbib-bigger-badder-bib-speaker.88104/post-1031054
I would start with a 2 uF cap if using the Fostex tweets. Better might be to use the Selenium tweeter as mentioned in the BBBIB thread .It is probably a tougher unit and the crossover is laid out for you.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/264-360.pdf
Panomainiac talked a bout a crossover here:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/bbbib-bigger-badder-bib-speaker.88104/post-1040927
but on rereading it, I don't see the actual components used...
PAno, you got that info?
This is the drawing that will answer most of your questions.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/bbbib-bigger-badder-bib-speaker.88104/post-1031054
I would start with a 2 uF cap if using the Fostex tweets. Better might be to use the Selenium tweeter as mentioned in the BBBIB thread .It is probably a tougher unit and the crossover is laid out for you.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/264-360.pdf
Panomainiac talked a bout a crossover here:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/bbbib-bigger-badder-bib-speaker.88104/post-1040927
but on rereading it, I don't see the actual components used...
PAno, you got that info?
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Ok, they ARE going to be used in the back of a truck on the 8th of August, now that I realize that they won't work well in open air environments (I had wondered that before but never put to much thought to that) what would be the best plywood top design to complete the horn? Putting them upside down is out of the question while driving in a parade due to the instability of having ~200lbs hoisted another 30" in the air. While making a plywood horn flair that sits down over the top of them is an easy task. If I get really bored it wouldn't be much work to kerf cut a board so it is a nice easy taper as well *Although I don't think that is recommended due to getting HF reflections out the horn, but I could be wrong. *
No, the tweeter is currently not hooked up although if I got that ambitious I could rob the DCX2496 from my other setup to use. There are the parts to build a 2nd order LR crossover at 5khz in the mail to me so currently that is the design (2uF cap) plans.
So ideas on the horn flair as to the best angle design and if I need it over just the top or a full top/sides enclosure?
No, the tweeter is currently not hooked up although if I got that ambitious I could rob the DCX2496 from my other setup to use. There are the parts to build a 2nd order LR crossover at 5khz in the mail to me so currently that is the design (2uF cap) plans.
So ideas on the horn flair as to the best angle design and if I need it over just the top or a full top/sides enclosure?
We'll find a solution!!
A start is to keep the outputs of the two horns close together, this doubles the size of the horn so already you are ahead.
I don't have time to draw it yet, but I suggest that if you have room on the truck, you put them with drivers facing the rear splayed out at about a 45degree angle. So the backs of the cabinets touch, and the fronts are apart at about the 45 deg facing towards the rear. Set them toward the front of the bed so that you have 5 or 6 feet of bed towards the rear, creating a "floor" which is the lower side of the new horn. I assume the speakers face towards the rear. Now, you have one side of the horn which is the truck bed, and you have the beginnings of the side walls- the outer part of the cabinets. Now extend the outer walls of the cabinets towards the rear of the truck with a sheet of plywood each.
Now all that's left is how to turn the bass and add the top panel of the flare. You will need a panel at a say 45 degree angle to bounce the sound to the rear. Probably best to extend the side panels upwards with yet another piece of ply with the top cut at an angle flaring upward to the rear , and a ply panel set on top of these.
Is this at all clear? Since this is temporary you can use the cheapest grades of ply...
A start is to keep the outputs of the two horns close together, this doubles the size of the horn so already you are ahead.
I don't have time to draw it yet, but I suggest that if you have room on the truck, you put them with drivers facing the rear splayed out at about a 45degree angle. So the backs of the cabinets touch, and the fronts are apart at about the 45 deg facing towards the rear. Set them toward the front of the bed so that you have 5 or 6 feet of bed towards the rear, creating a "floor" which is the lower side of the new horn. I assume the speakers face towards the rear. Now, you have one side of the horn which is the truck bed, and you have the beginnings of the side walls- the outer part of the cabinets. Now extend the outer walls of the cabinets towards the rear of the truck with a sheet of plywood each.
Now all that's left is how to turn the bass and add the top panel of the flare. You will need a panel at a say 45 degree angle to bounce the sound to the rear. Probably best to extend the side panels upwards with yet another piece of ply with the top cut at an angle flaring upward to the rear , and a ply panel set on top of these.
Is this at all clear? Since this is temporary you can use the cheapest grades of ply...
Variac said:
I'm just a little fuzzy on what creation I need to build on top of them to make the final horn flair. I understand the positioning of the speakers in the bed of the truck and the top piece angled at a 45, but I'm not entirely sure on what you mean by extending the outer walls.
EEatKSU said:
Greets!
Actually, adding an extension is out of the question IMO due to the size required if you're trying to substitute for room gain, etc. (roughly 4x bigger!). Turned upside down they only need a ~1" (if that much) gap to mass load them due to the large 'vent' perimeter. Still, best to experiment outdoors to find what sounds best and/or doesn't allow the driver to be overdriven, then add some legs and a base plate. If it's a pick-up, the big problem will probably be 'drumming' and/or bed cavity resonances.
No, you're right.
GM
Hmmm... looks serious 🙂 Good to hear it is working fine. I'll be very interested in how the XO works out.
I have the same midbass driver, and a number of possible tweeters (i'm leaning toward a set of celestion HF50s). I intend to put them in Maria (double mouth BVR -- a big Spawn) which is not quite as large, probably doesn't go as low, but is designed from the get-go for PA work...
dave
I have the same midbass driver, and a number of possible tweeters (i'm leaning toward a set of celestion HF50s). I intend to put them in Maria (double mouth BVR -- a big Spawn) which is not quite as large, probably doesn't go as low, but is designed from the get-go for PA work...
dave
I just built a 2nd order LR at 5khz, tweeter is way to harsh on this particular setup. *Fostex FT17*
Going to try a little something different now.
Going to try a little something different now.
Hmm, according to the published info, this super tweeter has a 5 kHz Fs, so needs a 10 kHz XO point if 2nd order, so little wonder it sounds harsh.
No wonder, I guess I should have taken more than a half second glance at the specs.
Not reading kicked me in the *** here...
Guess I'll just have to pull out my DCX gear and other amps and run these active for now...
*edit* I have them running a first order at 10khz, and they are quite listenable currently.
Not reading kicked me in the *** here...
Guess I'll just have to pull out my DCX gear and other amps and run these active for now...
*edit* I have them running a first order at 10khz, and they are quite listenable currently.
I still hope to draw something up to ask the experts about re a big horn flare, but just too overwhelmed with work and stuff.
Good thing you changed the crossover. What you have now seems about right.... Are you using a cap or the active crossover? Mostr importently, your old crossover could well have damaged the tweeter..
Good thing you changed the crossover. What you have now seems about right.... Are you using a cap or the active crossover? Mostr importently, your old crossover could well have damaged the tweeter..
Hmm, I wonder how well they're going to hold up at high SPL outdoors in the parade for any length of time with just a 1st order.
Those look amazing!
So the 12" eminence is good enough? I wonder how it sounds compared to the more typical fostex drivers?
Great job!
Godzilla
So the 12" eminence is good enough? I wonder how it sounds compared to the more typical fostex drivers?
Great job!
Godzilla
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