as edited above.65 degrees could be 64.5 0r 65.5 degrees better us the measurements.they are more acurate.
epa,
this aplys to the top bottem left right braces and center cross.
First, thanks for all the effort. I'm following along with great interest.
I have a few questions. Since they may help all following the thread, I figured I'd ask them publicly.
Should the horizontal dimension below the top left rectangle be 21 5/8 instead of 22 5/8ths? The dimension seems out of place with the others in the image.
This top seems like it will need a tweeter/compression-driver for the higher frequencies (above 5k?). Is this correct? If so, where does it mount?
Is there a specific reason, other than for durability, you used 3/4 inch plywood for the external box? I'm guessing with the driver installed this top will weigh around 70 pounds. (the bracing seems to be very well thought out, and that seems to provide strength, but it does add weight.)
Using 1/2 inch plywood for the outer box instead of 3/4 inch plywood might drop that weight by 10 pounds. Perhaps that additional thickness is only needed for the speaker compression chamber?
Again many thanks. Waiting eagerly to watch the build as it proceeds.
Joe L.
to make it clear when the cuts are done ,the size is 21.5/8
its just a bit bigger to allow for the saw cuts wich are usual 3 to 4 mm.
so you cut a board off 22.5/8 *15.1/2 ,draw as shown,then cut,then draw again,then cut, then draw again and cut.
grtz
its just a bit bigger to allow for the saw cuts wich are usual 3 to 4 mm.
so you cut a board off 22.5/8 *15.1/2 ,draw as shown,then cut,then draw again,then cut, then draw again and cut.
grtz
to your first question,yes you could make it al 12mm,but were talking 8kg difference.
and the rear chamber needs to be 18mm anyway.
and the rear chamber needs to be 18mm anyway.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.