This is just eye-candy, so it is kind of up to you to figure out how to use whatever meter you happen to find and like. You are probably going to have to find something on eBay or similar. There is software out there to print out new legends for various meter styles.
All D'arsonval meters work on the same principals. They are current measuring devices...usually very low currents. Some sort of shunt or series resistance is required to scale the meter's movement the way you'd like. Most meters that you'll find are roughly similar. A 2V and a 200V meter is usually the same meter with a different series resistor. Meters for measuring current use a shunt instead. Some meters you'll find already have the shunt while others expect you to provide it.
I suggest you use Google and start reading.
All D'arsonval meters work on the same principals. They are current measuring devices...usually very low currents. Some sort of shunt or series resistance is required to scale the meter's movement the way you'd like. Most meters that you'll find are roughly similar. A 2V and a 200V meter is usually the same meter with a different series resistor. Meters for measuring current use a shunt instead. Some meters you'll find already have the shunt while others expect you to provide it.
I suggest you use Google and start reading.
Yes, that is the software that Peter Millett used on his power supply.
Also, I should mention that the only time you typically see meters on a power amplifier is to guesstimate power output in Watts (FWIW). So if you assume an 8 ohm load and you want the meter to read full scale at a certain RMS power output, then you can calculate roughly what voltage to setup the meter for...at least for a sine wave.
Also, I should mention that the only time you typically see meters on a power amplifier is to guesstimate power output in Watts (FWIW). So if you assume an 8 ohm load and you want the meter to read full scale at a certain RMS power output, then you can calculate roughly what voltage to setup the meter for...at least for a sine wave.
Hi Guys.
Today I checked all the configurations of the Simple SE.
The UL is not working good . When I am configuring to UL I hear whistle like a siren .
Did you heard something like this before ? ( the triode is working OK )
Thanks
Today I checked all the configurations of the Simple SE.
The UL is not working good . When I am configuring to UL I hear whistle like a siren .
Did you heard something like this before ? ( the triode is working OK )
Thanks
They are two different things, but you typically want to use CFB with UL. For CFB to work, you actually have to invert the phase of the OPT secondaries so that you get negative feedback and not positive feedback. If you get it backwards, your amp becomes an oscillator.
As Russ mentioned, you want negative feedback. Positive feedback makes an oscillator that quickly sounds like a siren.....
You may have a polarity reversed somewhere.
You may have a polarity reversed somewhere.
Another question,
I would like to check again the values of C1/C2 and R17 and R27 .
I already placed the pcb in my aluminum chassis so,to which pins in the socket tubes should I be connected to measure the above ? (I have the feeling the power is not as I measured 3 weeks ago)
I would like to check again the values of C1/C2 and R17 and R27 .
I already placed the pcb in my aluminum chassis so,to which pins in the socket tubes should I be connected to measure the above ? (I have the feeling the power is not as I measured 3 weeks ago)
Here are some pictures
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Yes I saw that,
With CFB, the UL is working. I didn't have the time to play with that much so until now I didnt find a different.Although that, I think the output power was decreased somehow after connecting the switches. Any chance to measure the DC voltage using the socket pins?
With CFB, the UL is working. I didn't have the time to play with that much so until now I didnt find a different.Although that, I think the output power was decreased somehow after connecting the switches. Any chance to measure the DC voltage using the socket pins?
OK.
This is my measurements now :
PIN2 - GRN - 31V
PIN3 - GRN - 0V
PIN5 - GRN - 497V
PIN6 - GRN - 497V
PIN7 - GRN - 31V
As indicated here, pin3 and ground gives 0V.
According to the first experiments I did, before I put it on the chassis, I have 3V less now. ?!
This is my measurements now :
PIN2 - GRN - 31V
PIN3 - GRN - 0V
PIN5 - GRN - 497V
PIN6 - GRN - 497V
PIN7 - GRN - 31V
As indicated here, pin3 and ground gives 0V.
According to the first experiments I did, before I put it on the chassis, I have 3V less now. ?!
I suspect that you counted the pins backwards and inadvertently tested pin 6 instead of 5:
2 - 31V
3 - 497V
4 - 497V
6 - 0V
7 - 31V
Pin 6 has no connection on EL34. You probably want to check pin 8, too.
2 - 31V
3 - 497V
4 - 497V
6 - 0V
7 - 31V
Pin 6 has no connection on EL34. You probably want to check pin 8, too.
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