My intention is to make the baffle the whole width and height of the box and glue the inner piece of the "sandwich" to the rest of the box. The driver will be screwed to the outer piece of the "sandwich" and the rubber layer between the 2 pieces. Do you think this would work?
What type of glue would I have to use? Once harden, wood glue might not dampen as well as, say contact glue, that stays somewhat tacky.
Thanks Cracked Case for suggesting the "Midrange experiment with Auto sound panel deadener..." thread by Remlab. Similiar project but he used an aluminum baffle. Not sure the result will be the same but it's a good read.
What type of glue would I have to use? Once harden, wood glue might not dampen as well as, say contact glue, that stays somewhat tacky.
Thanks Cracked Case for suggesting the "Midrange experiment with Auto sound panel deadener..." thread by Remlab. Similiar project but he used an aluminum baffle. Not sure the result will be the same but it's a good read.
Unfortunately, I think to fully understand the benifites, I think you'd have to make several speakers, using different "soft" layers, from felt, foam, cork, rubber, sorbothane, and green glue - measure the results and see how they perform. I can't see it would make it worse though.
Me. No.
The antithesis of my approach. Maximum mass and bracing to spread reactive vibrations across the entire box mass and material, reducing the chance enuff energy gets into a panel, and working to eliminate the excitement of resonances. With the rubber “gasket” the entire energy will be loaded into the 1 panel that represents the outer baffle.
If the tuning of the rubber layer is just right, then it will isolate that baffle from the rest of the box, but if it is tuned for that unlikely to damp the resonating baffle.
Might work. But i would not be surprise dif it does not.
dave
On my traffic light spreakers, I did something similar; the fronts are held on by springs against a cork gasket, however holding the gasket in place are two square steel bars that compress the cork against the front baffle by Allen bolts and ny-loc nuts; these have the effect of both stiffening the fronts, and adding damping.
I was thinking about the Celestion SL600s, with their lightweight Aerolam (alloy honeycomb ) enclosures, because they're so lightweight there's little mass to store energy, hence little overhang; if the front baffles were de-coupled from the rest of the enclosure, wouldn't it achieve the same thing, but with added damping?
I have always been happy with the "Holey Brace" method of cross-bracing the entire cabinet to spread vibration and/or resonances, as I have used it in my own Pensil version cabinet. It's like knocking on a piece of hardwood, even if it's just 18mm ply.
Curious: How about using the usual plywood cabinet construction (and/or with holey bracing), and then lining parts of the insides with corkboard sheet? Will that improve any dampening properties or any other advantages?
Overview article about several of these topics below.
EAR isolation mounts are also mentioned. That seems an easier way to isolate the driver if that's your goal. I think there was another paper a few years ago that discussed those in this application also, but I can't find it at the moment. I think I have a note about it at home though, if you're interested.
https://audioxpress.com/article/speaker-design-driver-induced-vibrations
EAR isolation mounts are also mentioned. That seems an easier way to isolate the driver if that's your goal. I think there was another paper a few years ago that discussed those in this application also, but I can't find it at the moment. I think I have a note about it at home though, if you're interested.
https://audioxpress.com/article/speaker-design-driver-induced-vibrations