Mica there, I think a desoldering station is in my future! I get why it blew up, flat out careless on my part. confused as to why "fix" failed. Obviously, something about repair is different than it originally was. Almost hope I screwed up Q1 and Q2 locations...Russell, see if you can cleanup that whole area. R21 solder pad looks like it could be touching adjacent c6. BD sandwich missing mica? I got a Hakka desoldering tool when I had my issues, and it made the removal of components so much easier and cleaner. Also, I was able to test probably 95% of the components installed, so using your dmm and super gizmo tester should find the problem.
For now, I devised next gen, having 2 LEDs in series as base spreader, allowing use of 2*91R in between emiters, at least partially decreasing Poof possibility
Knowing this, should I wait on getting XA 252 number 2 until changes made? Or staying like it is? I just want another all mosfet/puck amp for other system.
Russellc
Knowing this, should I wait on getting XA 252 number 2 until changes made? Or staying like it is? I just want another all mosfet/puck amp for other system.
Russellc
stay with changes you made for one you have, just avoid nasty plops
I'll soon make batch of pcbs for iteration with current limiting, so hopefully no smoke with even most wakoo gremlins
I'll soon make batch of pcbs for iteration with current limiting, so hopefully no smoke with even most wakoo gremlins
Q1 and Q2 are removed and measure fine. Will replace anyway. R24 only thing looking cooked.
Will also post pics of boards once parts are removed, and again once parts swapped out.
Will remove and test T6. Anticipating it is fine, but will replace along with R19 and other parts, like last time ..
Will also post pics of boards once parts are removed, and again once parts swapped out.
Will remove and test T6. Anticipating it is fine, but will replace along with R19 and other parts, like last time ..
Apparently I have wakoo gremlins. Should I replace everything again and do board off pucks testing?stay with changes you made for one you have, just avoid nasty plops
I'll soon make batch of pcbs for iteration with current limiting, so hopefully no smoke with even most wakoo gremlins
It is puzzling that first off, previously amp worked great. Changed parts. First channel works fine. Second channel not so much. Must have mistake in second channel. I really thought I may have reversed Q1 and Q2, no such luck.
I like the sound of decreasing poof possibility.@william2001
Study Papa's New Stasis FE - there is limiting cell (Q4) where it needs to be
When I asked Pa about that detail, his answer was pretty much like "prevention of disaster in case of..."
Now you know and I know ........
Though, ZM need to build more cleverness to implement any sort of no-invasive limiting zingy in existing emiter follower stage in XA252
For now, I devised next gen, having 2 LEDs in series as base spreader, allowing use of 2*91R in between emiters, at least partially decreasing Poof possibility
that enables next step - no other way than adding few smd bjts and few smd resistors, monitoring current through each 91R emiter resistor, and clamping BD bases when current goes to - say 40mA
attached Papa's Stasis FE
Clever Pa.......
I haven't been stuffing the local limiter on my front end's.... papa said this when I brought it up: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/diy-front-end-2022.394339/page-36#post-7334528
So R17, R18, R19, R20, R21, R22, R23? And R24. Any other passives?you need practically to check every passive and active part, ref. to linked/nested schm, starting from R17 down and then going through numbers to right, ending with Q1 & Q2 with their common emiter resistor (which you redid to 2 series ones)
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Besides T6, Q1 an Q2. Should I add the other "T" actives, and any others. Not sure what is meant by "going through the numbers on the right" all includes? I assume All the T active devices, 1 through 7?
Thanks. I believe I have all parts on hand...
Makes sense, I was looking at schematic long ways right side. So adding T7 and it's associated resistors. Think pot is good, or it needs to go also, or no, it's ok?
Think pot is good, or it needs to go also, or no, it's ok?
well, you have DMM and SuperGizmo tester

Same question for C6 and C7, replace?
smd caps - hardly possible to be damaged
elco - only if LED didn't survive
Desolder station on way, delivery today!
https://www.amazon.com/YIHUA-Desold...2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/YIHUA-Desold...2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1
Measure fine with dmm....I will check "adjustability" however...just in case.
Sorry, what is "elco"? being Xtra slow today I guess. I am not sure if led survived. It did on other channel, this one was dead, but legs were tortured pretty bad 😞 so I may have killed it, can't be sure. So I will replace as soon as I knowsmd caps - hardly possible to be damaged
elco - only if LED didn't survive
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