Fugly!!
though ...... I hope you did put some fat wire, to take a role of that bottom copper layer, you obviously cut
I can only concur with approach you did show - solving problems to accommodate your needs , just put that wire, source to source , if you already didn't
though ...... I hope you did put some fat wire, to take a role of that bottom copper layer, you obviously cut
I can only concur with approach you did show - solving problems to accommodate your needs , just put that wire, source to source , if you already didn't
Wow, you have sharp eye.
Yes, I have already soldered thick copper wires after cutting the copper layer.
Thanks.
Yes, I have already soldered thick copper wires after cutting the copper layer.
Thanks.
Actually, I don't think you are supposed to use paste with thermal pads. Use paste w/ mica.
What caps are people using? I had followed the Pass FW F6 schematic and suggestions and am about to use 8x 15000µF per channel as per the schematic, so 30mF -R- 30mF where ZM suggested 33mF, so should be within suggested range? The caps look quite small on my PCB and I see other people using much larger ones. Any benefit or are those just what you had lying around?
I am using the Epcos 25V-15000µF now.
I am using the Epcos 25V-15000µF now.
well, if you have those so called Computer Grade (or something like that) , big ones with screws etc. - use them - usually much higher ripple current and impeccable behavior through entire freq. range ( Philips ones I used in few of my amps are insane, rated to zilliion amps at 20KHz)
if you don't have a purse for these, use snap in caps, as us mere mortals do in most cases
33mF/25V , either Pana or CDE or whatever - nice ones
if you don't have a purse for these, use snap in caps, as us mere mortals do in most cases
33mF/25V , either Pana or CDE or whatever - nice ones
Well, I had already ordered these ones so should be fine I think. Still mere mortal greedy boy.
Maybe I'll bump into insane Philips one day.
Maybe I'll bump into insane Philips one day.
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Or even try these - last pieces of their kind
B41570E9109Q | EPCOS B41570 Alu Kondensator, Elko radial 10000μF, 100Vdc, O 64.3mm | RS Components
B41570E9109Q | EPCOS B41570 Alu Kondensator, Elko radial 10000μF, 100Vdc, O 64.3mm | RS Components
Well, I had already ordered these ones so should be fine I think. Still mere mortal greedy boy.
Maybe I'll bump into insane Philips one day.
Where did you source those boards from?
I have just bought a shiny pair of HPD385 Ardens, to calm my nerves.
But without the Cinemag, they won't be singing anytime soon.
But without the Cinemag, they won't be singing anytime soon.
I replaced the silicone pad with mica and thermal paste. The temperature of the mosfet is now 65 degree C. Is it OK? The ambient temperature is 30 degree C.
Thanks.
it's certainly better than it was
I presume temp of heatsink nearby mosfet is in range of 55C?
I presume temp of heatsink nearby mosfet is in range of 55C?
G600,
Just curious why you picked the Ardens and what kind of music you like. Been looking at them but haven't heard them and really don't know how they handle Rock - like Led Zeppelin. Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks.
Don
PS: Good luck with your project.
Just curious why you picked the Ardens and what kind of music you like. Been looking at them but haven't heard them and really don't know how they handle Rock - like Led Zeppelin. Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks.
Don
PS: Good luck with your project.
Ardens are divine drivers with (electrically) divine xover (shitttty made) in nice looking awful cab
Tann DC drivers are all rounder, speakers for audio retirement
ok, Zepp would probably sound wilder on original VoT, but that's not better for my ears
Tann DC drivers are all rounder, speakers for audio retirement
ok, Zepp would probably sound wilder on original VoT, but that's not better for my ears
Chose because I wanted to try Tannoy's 15" drivers.
HPD385 are a good base, with almost the same result as the more expensive Gold Monitors.
Had the occasion of buying Berkeley, but Ardens may be a better match with a 15".
Crossovers will be refurbished in a conservative way, by RFC in the UK.
ZM, regarding the cabinet, having the drivers will make me able to mount them as an open baffle 😉
HPD385 are a good base, with almost the same result as the more expensive Gold Monitors.
Had the occasion of buying Berkeley, but Ardens may be a better match with a 15".
Crossovers will be refurbished in a conservative way, by RFC in the UK.
ZM, regarding the cabinet, having the drivers will make me able to mount them as an open baffle 😉
to my deaf ears, there is no difference between HPD385 and Gold Monitors**
major factor when evaluating any DC is that speaker is actually in proper shape - meaning aligned tweets, cones not too tired of years of ab/use, pristine surround
if you ever need few tips about xover and if you have idea about making proper cabinet, just buzz
approx 75% of info you can get about Tann DC on net is utter bullllll
few Hz difference down, that's no difference ppl are all the time talking about
majority of Tannoy related stories are having core in owner's need for boasting and showing offffffff, not to mention a fact that eeenyweeeny minority is actually having a clue what they are talking about and what they are trying to say
major factor when evaluating any DC is that speaker is actually in proper shape - meaning aligned tweets, cones not too tired of years of ab/use, pristine surround
if you ever need few tips about xover and if you have idea about making proper cabinet, just buzz
approx 75% of info you can get about Tann DC on net is utter bullllll
few Hz difference down, that's no difference ppl are all the time talking about
majority of Tannoy related stories are having core in owner's need for boasting and showing offffffff, not to mention a fact that eeenyweeeny minority is actually having a clue what they are talking about and what they are trying to say
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