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For a CLC build, should I get a quartet of Hammond 159ZJ (10mH, 5A, 0.160 Ohms, with 1A8 bias, likely to drop about 0v29DC: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hammond-Manufacturing/159ZJ?qs=HY6QdUiTBExOZxgMsWmzIA==
Or a quartet of Hammond 159ZL (2.5mH, 10A, 0.044 Ohms, with 1A8 bias, likely to drop about 0v07DC:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hammond-Manufacturing/159ZJ?qs=HY6QdUiTBExOZxgMsWmzIA==
DCR differences seem mostly irrelevant, as does current capability, so it really comes down to mH rating. Is this just a “more is better” situation? I’ve never built a CLC before. Other components are dual 400VA transformers with 18v secondaries and 2x33,000uF per rail, so overall config will be traffo, rectifier, 33kuF, inductor, 33kuF, SissySIT boards.
Or a quartet of Hammond 159ZL (2.5mH, 10A, 0.044 Ohms, with 1A8 bias, likely to drop about 0v07DC:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hammond-Manufacturing/159ZJ?qs=HY6QdUiTBExOZxgMsWmzIA==
DCR differences seem mostly irrelevant, as does current capability, so it really comes down to mH rating. Is this just a “more is better” situation? I’ve never built a CLC before. Other components are dual 400VA transformers with 18v secondaries and 2x33,000uF per rail, so overall config will be traffo, rectifier, 33kuF, inductor, 33kuF, SissySIT boards.
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Just a fyi
Years ago, when I first built a CLC, it was suggested that I use Erse Super Q 2.2mH units. I have a couple of separate box CLC s built with these. I use Powercons to connect to amps. Unfortunately I don't think they are still available but the specs are on line.
Years ago, when I first built a CLC, it was suggested that I use Erse Super Q 2.2mH units. I have a couple of separate box CLC s built with these. I use Powercons to connect to amps. Unfortunately I don't think they are still available but the specs are on line.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/clc-vs-crc.337738/
This thread has some wonderful information in it.
For a "stereo" PSU (500 VA transformer @2x20V, 66k uF - choke - 66k uF in each leg) I have used a 159ZL for each rail.
In my dual-mono build with 2 x 400 VA @2x20V transformers, I thought four 159ZL would be too big for my 5U/400 case. Here, I used four 156B (1.5 mH, 5A, 0.07R DC).
I always wanted to go with a very low DC R and get the filtering action from the inductance, to get a low PSU impedance.
All amps I have tried in the dual mono case (currently a SissySIT R3) are dead silent on my 100dB/W speakers. I have 66k uF - choke - 66k uF in each rail (512k uF total in the amp), plus a motor run in each rail as icing on the cake.
Best regards, Claas
In my dual-mono build with 2 x 400 VA @2x20V transformers, I thought four 159ZL would be too big for my 5U/400 case. Here, I used four 156B (1.5 mH, 5A, 0.07R DC).
I always wanted to go with a very low DC R and get the filtering action from the inductance, to get a low PSU impedance.
All amps I have tried in the dual mono case (currently a SissySIT R3) are dead silent on my 100dB/W speakers. I have 66k uF - choke - 66k uF in each rail (512k uF total in the amp), plus a motor run in each rail as icing on the cake.
Best regards, Claas
Still a work in progress.
if possible. mount cap banks on top of chokes (long distancers to bottom plate)
much easier everything if you have more floor space in case
^ Agreed. Sadly, Chokes are ~ 67mm and caps are ~82mm tall. With little fudge + base plate etc...
So, unless I use a 5U chassis... no bueno. I like the 5U Pesante, and I used similar 3U for balanced Iron Pre. I really wanted to use 3U, but will likely use 4U for PSU. I can re-design PSU boards and get new shorter / fatter caps, but I already had these parts. I have 5U, 4U, and 3U for comparisons with baseplates for test fitting...
Decisions, decisions.
Need to decide before ModuShop summer sale ends ... that darn @Gianluca with such a good deal
Anyway... fun stuff, and I appreciate all the help!
Edited to add... and if I use 5U, I can mount toroids vertically...
So, unless I use a 5U chassis... no bueno. I like the 5U Pesante, and I used similar 3U for balanced Iron Pre. I really wanted to use 3U, but will likely use 4U for PSU. I can re-design PSU boards and get new shorter / fatter caps, but I already had these parts. I have 5U, 4U, and 3U for comparisons with baseplates for test fitting...
Decisions, decisions.
Need to decide before ModuShop summer sale ends ... that darn @Gianluca with such a good deal
Anyway... fun stuff, and I appreciate all the help!
Edited to add... and if I use 5U, I can mount toroids vertically...
LOL! Agreed...
I am only talking about the PSU in the separate housing.... for the height. I suppose I could use matching height and sit side by side... Plan was to use 3U or 4U for PSU and put it on shelf below amp. I don't even have the boards from you yet, but already thinking ahead. First have to get the Aleph 60 finished.
ModuShop is not too hard to get here. I have not tried since they changed the store to move straight to ModuShop order, but they have been easy-peasy-pleasure to work with.
The amplifier will go into a 4U/500 or a 5U/500. I am getting some 5U sinks that I can swap in. Also good for Singing Bush (particularly with Schade). One of the things I love about the Modu part of ModuShop is that I can mount a pair of heatsinks on rails with amp boards and swap in and out. I can keep one set of face plates and back plates with rails and swap things in and out to my little heart's content. Once I have new outboard "universal" PSU... it will be even easier. The only downside is mean looks from a Mighty One b/c I use quick connects to make the swapping easy for me.
I am only talking about the PSU in the separate housing.... for the height. I suppose I could use matching height and sit side by side... Plan was to use 3U or 4U for PSU and put it on shelf below amp.
I don't even have the boards from you yet, but already thinking ahead. First have to get the Aleph 60 finished.ModuShop is not too hard to get here. I have not tried since they changed the store to move straight to ModuShop order, but they have been easy-peasy-pleasure to work with.
The amplifier will go into a 4U/500 or a 5U/500. I am getting some 5U sinks that I can swap in. Also good for Singing Bush (particularly with Schade). One of the things I love about the Modu part of ModuShop is that I can mount a pair of heatsinks on rails with amp boards and swap in and out. I can keep one set of face plates and back plates with rails and swap things in and out to my little heart's content. Once I have new outboard "universal" PSU... it will be even easier. The only downside is mean looks from a Mighty One b/c I use quick connects to make the swapping easy for me.
@ItsAllInMyHead
Just for your awareness, I shoehorned my separate dual mono CLC in a Galaxy 3U (330 x 280), so Pesante 400 should be quite roomy.
Could you rotate the filter caps boards so the long caps are horizontal?
Just for your awareness, I shoehorned my separate dual mono CLC in a Galaxy 3U (330 x 280), so Pesante 400 should be quite roomy.
Could you rotate the filter caps boards so the long caps are horizontal?
^ I had seen that, and I love it. No way to squish my two V8 boards in that space.
I have tried various configurations to balance running the wires most appropriately to keep AC and DC as far away as practical ... but also as short as practical ... while also keeping some level of sanity in the layout.
Love all the ideas. Keep 'em coming. However, I've derailed this thread a bit. I posted some things, and I've gotten some great ideas over in that same thread.
I think I'm being a bit of a doofus using 8 big ol' caps for each PSU with the V8 boards ... but ... I can be smarter later. I had the parts. If it comes down to it, I can use a single V12 board. I likely would have been better off using boards like yours.
Luckily, I don't have too much to worry about in terms of space, and I'm not entirely concerned with a volt or so of extra loss here and there due to my dodoness of overdoing it. I generally don't need too much voltage swing (all things remaining equal). Just having some fun, while trying to do it mostly correctly, and get a much quieter supply along with putting some motor-runs / local decoupling in the amp chassis. I've heard the rumors that it can make a difference, and some folks have been kind enough to try and teach me a thing or two. Decoupling and the local caps still mystify me... but ... in time.
I have tried various configurations to balance running the wires most appropriately to keep AC and DC as far away as practical ... but also as short as practical ... while also keeping some level of sanity in the layout.
Love all the ideas. Keep 'em coming. However, I've derailed this thread a bit. I posted some things, and I've gotten some great ideas over in that same thread.
I think I'm being a bit of a doofus using 8 big ol' caps for each PSU with the V8 boards ... but ... I can be smarter later. I had the parts. If it comes down to it, I can use a single V12 board. I likely would have been better off using boards like yours.
Luckily, I don't have too much to worry about in terms of space, and I'm not entirely concerned with a volt or so of extra loss here and there due to my dodoness of overdoing it. I generally don't need too much voltage swing (all things remaining equal). Just having some fun, while trying to do it mostly correctly, and get a much quieter supply along with putting some motor-runs / local decoupling in the amp chassis. I've heard the rumors that it can make a difference, and some folks have been kind enough to try and teach me a thing or two. Decoupling and the local caps still mystify me... but ... in time.
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Thanks for the details and CLC vs CRC link.
OK, silly little detail and probably irrelevant, but which is the intended orientation of the Antek transformers? Everyone seems to mount them so that the wires exit on the “top” of the donut, but this leaves the label upside down. Are they intended to be mounted with the wires exiting on the bottom, so they are closer to the ground plane chassis?
OK, silly little detail and probably irrelevant, but which is the intended orientation of the Antek transformers? Everyone seems to mount them so that the wires exit on the “top” of the donut, but this leaves the label upside down. Are they intended to be mounted with the wires exiting on the bottom, so they are closer to the ground plane chassis?
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Very nice! You need some floor space for rectifiers 😉
Still a work in progress.
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