It’s definitely messy as hell. It was a spur of the moment idea that I didn’t put much thought into, and I definitely crammed more heat sinks on there than should fit. It’s only the one that’s slanting, the other three are pretty flush. I did try to make sure there was solid contact. I did this in response to this resistor getting hot hot hot running as a dummy load, like “hmm, do I have anything I can use to fix this just lying around?”
Without the heat sinks the resistor was so hot I could only hold it for 2-3 seconds. With the heat sinks, I can hardly feel any heat at all. Power is 3v into 7ohms.
Without the heat sinks the resistor was so hot I could only hold it for 2-3 seconds. With the heat sinks, I can hardly feel any heat at all. Power is 3v into 7ohms.
I got tired of moving my meter clips around all the time playing with harmonics and bias levels, so I made a simple data interface for my front end.
This is AWESOME!!!

Agree!This is AWESOME!!!![]()
My one complaint on the BA3 pre is that the board is too crowded. It's difficult to make measurements.
I am going to do something similar, but using a different contact. Pics later. 🙂
This is AWESOME!!!![]()
Thank you, that means a lot coming from you! 🙂
I am going to do something similar, but using a different contact. Pics later. 🙂
I look forward to seeing what you do!
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Question: What caps did you fine folks use for C1 and C2? I used Nichicon UKZ Gold, but they were too big for the space. I know caps don't have magic powers, but my two "go-to"s (the Nichicon's, and Elna Silmic's) are both two wide for the space.
Question: What caps did you fine folks use for C1 and C2?
Hopefully most people used 1000uF caps as the schematic calls for. 😎
I know caps don't have magic powers,
..but then why are you asking??

🙂 🙂 🙂
..but then why are you asking??
🙂 🙂 🙂
Because otherwise I'd pick something at random, and any information is better than no information 😉
The simple reality of modern production is any name-brand electrolytic capacitor bought from legitimate sources is going to work properly and have no real influence on the sound of the circuit. Capacitor technology has come a long way, albeit quietly, in the last decade, and they all work (and sound) wonderfully.
Which is to say, picking from random at Mouser, Digi-Key, Arrow, etc… will be a completely reasonable approach.
Which is to say, picking from random at Mouser, Digi-Key, Arrow, etc… will be a completely reasonable approach.
What about these caps I found that were made out of pure palladium under the light of the full moon and are filled with Nelson Pass’ tears?
more likely with traces of NP's mockery 
remember silly 10uF Silmic, as sole cap in signal path in M2?
and our friends from Asia, clever as they are, gone kwayzee for M2 ...... while rest of the world (periodicals mostly, thus Believers) are as always wasting breath and .........
go figure

remember silly 10uF Silmic, as sole cap in signal path in M2?
and our friends from Asia, clever as they are, gone kwayzee for M2 ...... while rest of the world (periodicals mostly, thus Believers) are as always wasting breath and .........
go figure
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Funny, I don't have a Silmic in my M2 and it's still my favorite amplifier in the collection...
Sorry for following this offtopic stuff but…
For us greenhorns this really is a question that drives us (well, me at least) into oscillation:
On one hand, we’re told not to follow snakeoil-paths, on the other hand, almost everyone, even the most highly regarded ones (…) seem to have some sort of method for the selection of caps (be it pure taste, color, whatnot/whoknows) and me/us greenhorns would really like to find a guideline, a pattern, anything beyond the randomness…
I‘m not talking duelund cast etc, but rather silmic, ukz etc…
And yes, I am quite convinced this is not an anwerable question…
For us greenhorns this really is a question that drives us (well, me at least) into oscillation:
On one hand, we’re told not to follow snakeoil-paths, on the other hand, almost everyone, even the most highly regarded ones (…) seem to have some sort of method for the selection of caps (be it pure taste, color, whatnot/whoknows) and me/us greenhorns would really like to find a guideline, a pattern, anything beyond the randomness…
I‘m not talking duelund cast etc, but rather silmic, ukz etc…
And yes, I am quite convinced this is not an anwerable question…
I was desperate, seeing that newly arrived quantity of my beloved MKC Phlips caps arrived in wrong color
instead of proper Baby Blue, I got them in Yellow
nothing is going to sound as I'm expecting ......


caps - simple as that - first choose whom to trust, then test by yourself facts of his/hers stance
from then, form your own opinion and trust only to your self
will you then preach about, or not, depends of many factors
instead of proper Baby Blue, I got them in Yellow
nothing is going to sound as I'm expecting ......


caps - simple as that - first choose whom to trust, then test by yourself facts of his/hers stance
from then, form your own opinion and trust only to your self
will you then preach about, or not, depends of many factors

With my limited experience I´d say the higher the voltage drop and current (like in crossovers) the more important the cap.
Cyril Bateman's Capacitor Sound articles | Linear Audio NL
Cyril Bateman's Capacitor Sound articles | Linear Audio NL
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instead of proper Baby Blue, I got them in Yellow
I first chose red caps for my ba-3, with the intention to build an all red sample…
But then, hesitant and suspicious about this, ahem, „decision“, I switched to white ones as well as conventional (probably ukz? Don’t remember)
I very probably never will be able to discern any differences — because I am kinda lazy 🦥
And anyway, I personally indeed have doubts about all this.
I’ve used Nichicon because they say “Audio Grade” 😛 Also, I’ve never heard someone say a bad thing about Nichicon :shrug:
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