Can your wife dertermine if it is a hiss, a buzz or a brummm (frequency range, wide noise or not etc.)?
Is that always there, when playing musc and obviously gone when the B1K is switched off?
What source are you using / feeding the B1K with?
What is your set up usualy before you installed the B1K, presuming there was no 'noise' back then? Has anything changed apart from the addition of the B1K?
Perhaps this can help some here finding some possible culprits, defining the problem?
Good luck either way
Claude
Is that always there, when playing musc and obviously gone when the B1K is switched off?
What source are you using / feeding the B1K with?
What is your set up usualy before you installed the B1K, presuming there was no 'noise' back then? Has anything changed apart from the addition of the B1K?
Perhaps this can help some here finding some possible culprits, defining the problem?
Good luck either way
Claude
It's a hiss, and a very light hummm. It is there with the rest of my set up off (Brooklyn + dac and Auralic Aries G1 streamer). I also noticed I can't get the bias of the left channel below 10,5 VDC (pot is at the end of it's travel). I use a pcb from a groupbuy here on diyaudio. I will try to make a picture later.
It's a hiss, and a very light hummm. It is there with the rest of my set up off (Brooklyn + dac and Auralic Aries G1 streamer). I also noticed I can't get the bias of the left channel below 10,5 VDC (pot is at the end of it's travel). I use a pcb from a groupbuy here on diyaudio. I will try to make a picture later.
Are you sure you have solid continuity? I had some of my return path wires come loose in the kit as they are quite stiff and slipped out a little of the euro block connectors I have. You also need to ensure solid continuity between the chassis panels.
--Tom
I don't know this pcb version but if you use Toshiba jfet's do you need solder
some pieces of the wires in empty places of JR1 resistors ?
That is the question..
Other possibility: noise from the psu ? Try with other good smps..
some pieces of the wires in empty places of JR1 resistors ?
That is the question..
Other possibility: noise from the psu ? Try with other good smps..
My B1K has a very slight hiss as well with 95db speakers
I assumed it was just a characteristic of the pre-amp ?
I assumed it was just a characteristic of the pre-amp ?
I don't know this board, perhaps best to ask the one who created it?
Hence no clue on the bias prob, regarding the noise yes check continuity, SMPS, and mass connections - possibly at wires connections (RCA, board, pot...) especialy if the noise varies when you touch with fingers casing or connectors...
Sorry for the little help and good luck
Claude
Hence no clue on the bias prob, regarding the noise yes check continuity, SMPS, and mass connections - possibly at wires connections (RCA, board, pot...) especialy if the noise varies when you touch with fingers casing or connectors...
Sorry for the little help and good luck
Claude
My B1K has a very slight hiss as well with 95db speakers
I assumed it was just a characteristic of the pre-amp ?
It's a feature. I wanted a convincing old time tube experience.
😉
Most likely it's the 24V smps noise.It's a hiss, and a very light hummm...
It's a feature. I wanted a convincing old time tube experience.
😉
My wife just said she want's a word with you... 😛
Most likely it's the 24V smps noise.
Ordered a new, medical version, one.
I don't know this pcb version but if you use Toshiba jfet's do you need solder
some pieces of the wires in empty places of JR1 resistors ?
That is the question..
Other possibility: noise from the psu ? Try with other good smps..
The PCB was a group buy here at DIYAudio. There is no need for a wire at the JR1 position when using Thosiba's.
I don't know this board, perhaps best to ask the one who created it?
Hence no clue on the bias prob, regarding the noise yes check continuity, SMPS, and mass connections - possibly at wires connections (RCA, board, pot...) especialy if the noise varies when you touch with fingers casing or connectors...
Sorry for the little help and good luck
Claude
Checked everything. It seems alright.
SMPS is mentioned most so I ordered a new, medical, one. Should arrive tomorrow.
Thanks everyone!
Thanks everyone!
SMPS is mentioned most so I ordered a new, medical, one. Should arrive tomorrow.
Thanks everyone!
The post at #6103 mentioned an SMPS filter that sounded intriguing and I am adding it to my build right at the DC input jack, waiting on some final parts (arriving today 😀). The schematic for this filter does look promising and seems to have quite a few advocates here. It might be worth adding no matter the quality of the SMPS.
Located at PO89ZB , an inline DC filter for SMPS wall warts . Preamps, HPA, Korg NuTube, etc
The PCB was a group buy here at DIYAudio. There is no need for a wire at the JR1 position when using Thosiba's.
Ok so without R1 Toshiba Q2 have source to gate loop and work correctly ?
Medical smps at the input of the CRC filter for minimum ripple.
I am curious about the result 🙂 Best regards
Attachments
Ok so without R1 Toshiba Q2 have source to gate loop and work correctly ?
Yes. It was optional to use J113 with R1.
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