SMPS model for B1K in official BOM is a low noise model then on the official PCB we get CRCRC filter included.
Some times can make audible difference with high sensitive speakers drivers and higher gain amplifiers
Some times can make audible difference with high sensitive speakers drivers and higher gain amplifiers
+1
I am not a SMPS fan, but had to admit that Papa got it 100% right.
To my ears, the SMPS + CRCRC filter wasn't bettered by a big (50x its size) quality regulated lab supply I use only on my bench. I prefered Papa's rec, it scored everywhere better except perhaps in the bass. And I tried hard to convince myself it couldn't be 🙂
I use now an even lower ripple SMPS of the same make, Mark's excellent SMPS filter and 2200uF caps instead of the 1000uF. All this brought very little but noticeable improvements. Diminishing returns though, more a play to hear how far it would go. I reached a point where I don't think any other PS would really make an audible difference on that set up - I call it a day.
Bottom line: go for Papa's recommandation and, if you like to play, enhence it somewhat - job done. In that particular case it really works great without any drawback IMHO.
I hope it helps
Claude
I am not a SMPS fan, but had to admit that Papa got it 100% right.
To my ears, the SMPS + CRCRC filter wasn't bettered by a big (50x its size) quality regulated lab supply I use only on my bench. I prefered Papa's rec, it scored everywhere better except perhaps in the bass. And I tried hard to convince myself it couldn't be 🙂
I use now an even lower ripple SMPS of the same make, Mark's excellent SMPS filter and 2200uF caps instead of the 1000uF. All this brought very little but noticeable improvements. Diminishing returns though, more a play to hear how far it would go. I reached a point where I don't think any other PS would really make an audible difference on that set up - I call it a day.
Bottom line: go for Papa's recommandation and, if you like to play, enhence it somewhat - job done. In that particular case it really works great without any drawback IMHO.
I hope it helps
Claude
Hi Claude , Is the P/S that comes in the DIY audio store kit the same one that Mr. Pass recommended ?
Also where can I get one of Mark's SMPS filters ?
Thanks
Robert
Also where can I get one of Mark's SMPS filters ?
Thanks
Robert
PO89ZB , an inline DC filter for SMPS wall warts . Preamps, HPA, Korg NuTube, etc
Someone may be running a GB. Not sure. I've seen a few posts re: people with left over boards.
Someone may be running a GB. Not sure. I've seen a few posts re: people with left over boards.
That's the filter indeed, and it has been recently improved again with better caps. Not expensive, easy to build... and the worst your SMPS, the better it works.
As for SMPS, look at advertised ripple, the lower the better, it is a good starting point... provided of course they deliver the right voltage and enough current.
Enjoy music
Claude
As for SMPS, look at advertised ripple, the lower the better, it is a good starting point... provided of course they deliver the right voltage and enough current.
Enjoy music
Claude
Hi Claude , Sorry for the confusion
I was asking if the SMPS that comes with the full DiyStore kit is the one recommended by Mr. Pass ?
Looks like it's a Triad Brand according to the picture. I was thinking of getting the Meanwell 75-24 as well ?
Second question was any idea where one could obtain some of Marks boards ?
I just read the entire thread and it looks very interesting !
I was asking if the SMPS that comes with the full DiyStore kit is the one recommended by Mr. Pass ?
Looks like it's a Triad Brand according to the picture. I was thinking of getting the Meanwell 75-24 as well ?
Second question was any idea where one could obtain some of Marks boards ?
I just read the entire thread and it looks very interesting !
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If you go to jlcpcb.com, my last order for 30 cost $12.45 shipped!
It is very easy, you just upload the gerber and use the default settings for everything except "PCB Thinkness", use 0.6 for that.
It is very easy, you just upload the gerber and use the default settings for everything except "PCB Thinkness", use 0.6 for that.
rtate - Yes, the kit wall wart is the recommended item. I would not limit myself to that particular model however, there are lots of good warts available, for instance, I'm having great success with Mean Well.
Also, with intelligent post filtering, such as Mark Johnson's PO89ZB, the differences between good warts disappears, and you have a great power source for our projects.
Also, with intelligent post filtering, such as Mark Johnson's PO89ZB, the differences between good warts disappears, and you have a great power source for our projects.
Hi all, I have ordered the nutube and the B1-nutube PCB and it is on his way !
First, I think that Mr. Pass , 6L6 and you all are very generous with your time and technically advice, and for that I want to thank you ! I build the ACA before, and I enjoy it immensely !
Now I have two questions. Can someone help me specify which rotary power switch will do instead of the toggle switch ? Its is a cosmetic thing since I choose a rotary selctor switch instead of the toggle switch since I want more than two inputs.
Also I am intrigued by your return of experience using the LSK170 vs the J113 in the preamp. Is it worth it ? I read the ACN paper that mention the superiority of the LSK on J113 technically, but performance on paper does'nt necessarily translate in the reproduction.
First, I think that Mr. Pass , 6L6 and you all are very generous with your time and technically advice, and for that I want to thank you ! I build the ACA before, and I enjoy it immensely !
Now I have two questions. Can someone help me specify which rotary power switch will do instead of the toggle switch ? Its is a cosmetic thing since I choose a rotary selctor switch instead of the toggle switch since I want more than two inputs.
Also I am intrigued by your return of experience using the LSK170 vs the J113 in the preamp. Is it worth it ? I read the ACN paper that mention the superiority of the LSK on J113 technically, but performance on paper does'nt necessarily translate in the reproduction.
I think this switch looks very interesting -
It's not going to fit the chassis, but this is DIY... 🙂 🙂 🙂
As for K170 vs J113, I have B1K with both options, and I can't tell any difference. The tone of this project is strongly dominated by the NuTube.

It's not going to fit the chassis, but this is DIY... 🙂 🙂 🙂

As for K170 vs J113, I have B1K with both options, and I can't tell any difference. The tone of this project is strongly dominated by the NuTube.
Well a bit...brutal look for a switch !
I search something who look like a carbon potentiometer or something.
Thank for the feedback on the LSK, that's very helpfull and I will not waster money and energy on the replacement of the J113.
I search something who look like a carbon potentiometer or something.
Thank for the feedback on the LSK, that's very helpfull and I will not waster money and energy on the replacement of the J113.
Meanwell worked great for me... and is even slightly better with Mark's filter. No doubt you could keep the existing SMPS taht came with your great kit and just fit Mark's filter.
Selector switch... if you don't like the very big one Jim posted, in his built he kindly recommended a very tiny one. That's the one you will find in my posts, thanks to Jim's help.
It is the Greyhill 56A36-01-2-03S.
It is very small (has also tiny lugs, precision work)... and very nice.
I hope this helps
Claude
Selector switch... if you don't like the very big one Jim posted, in his built he kindly recommended a very tiny one. That's the one you will find in my posts, thanks to Jim's help.
It is the Greyhill 56A36-01-2-03S.
It is very small (has also tiny lugs, precision work)... and very nice.
I hope this helps
Claude
Ha exactly what I was searching, thank a lot !Meanwell worked great for me... and is even slightly better with Mark's filter. No doubt you could keep the existing SMPS taht came with your great kit and just fit Mark's filter.
Selector switch... if you don't like the very big one Jim posted, in his built he kindly recommended a very tiny one. That's the one you will find in my posts, thanks to Jim's help.
It is the Greyhill 56A36-01-2-03S.
It is very small (has also tiny lugs, precision work)... and very nice.
I hope this helps
Claude
ok, I will follow your advice.
Anyway I am planning to make a chassis from wood as a prototype.
Anyway I am planning to make a chassis from wood as a prototype.
No pix of the DIY chassis, sorry, and the pre is out again... as it will be part of a bigger scheme around preamplification and likely come in a different final box then.
Just to clarify, my built wasn't part of the DIYA kits: it was one of the early boards. Things are even more convenient since with the kit, due to the deserved success of this little jem and people working behind it.
Switch... Of course Jim is right and make sure it fits in your existing chassis! Note that worst case you could have an external "switch box only", something I did in the past (and consider again should I wish several pre and volume options), and that leaves free room re switch or tech...
Have fun guys
Claude
Just to clarify, my built wasn't part of the DIYA kits: it was one of the early boards. Things are even more convenient since with the kit, due to the deserved success of this little jem and people working behind it.
Switch... Of course Jim is right and make sure it fits in your existing chassis! Note that worst case you could have an external "switch box only", something I did in the past (and consider again should I wish several pre and volume options), and that leaves free room re switch or tech...
Have fun guys
Claude
Thanks Claude, the reason I was asking is that I would really like to have 3 inputs and the kit only has 2
Just an idea...
A small add-on box with just a 2 way switch, one of the simple and safe kind such as in your B1 Korg, 3 pairs of RCAs (2 inputs, 1 output), short interconnects and you are done. No need to mod your existing B1 Korg.
Just another quick thought... if absolute sound quality of the 2 additional sources is secondary, then a switchbox from China to 10$ comes ready made. But no DIYer fun and probably less quality.
Enjoy
Claude
A small add-on box with just a 2 way switch, one of the simple and safe kind such as in your B1 Korg, 3 pairs of RCAs (2 inputs, 1 output), short interconnects and you are done. No need to mod your existing B1 Korg.
Just another quick thought... if absolute sound quality of the 2 additional sources is secondary, then a switchbox from China to 10$ comes ready made. But no DIYer fun and probably less quality.
Enjoy
Claude
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