Seems very complicated, cant you just invert the signal and send to XLR - and regular signal to +? it won't be fully balanced but at least any interference on the XLR cable outside the chassi will be solved.
I said "Many builders actually go for the thinnest possible wires for low level signals".
I have read of and seen pictures of small diameter low level signal wires on diyAudio. However I am not sure of the science behind it. All I know is that many people are doing it.
Zen Mod had mentioned in a post that he uses 0.15mm, which is between 34 and 35 gauge:
Aleph J illustrated build guide
I should ask: I see transformers in the photo. What are they doing?
I have not seen a B1 Korg with the supply and/or transformers in the same box,
but I do know that the high impedance plates of the Korg are very sensitive
to radiated noise.
I have not seen a B1 Korg with the supply and/or transformers in the same box,
but I do know that the high impedance plates of the Korg are very sensitive
to radiated noise.
On another note, I am informed that the pdf of the article still contains
the 100 ohm error on the BOM. It should be 4.
Revised is attached.
the 100 ohm error on the BOM. It should be 4.
Revised is attached.
Great! I only found out populating the boards. As I was building two boards, at least I could enjoy one! 🙂
Once I tried to put a raspberry streamer and a nutube in one chassis. That didnt work well, heard psu switching noise (I guess) through speakers even with music playing..
Once I tried to put a raspberry streamer and a nutube in one chassis. That didnt work well, heard psu switching noise (I guess) through speakers even with music playing..
one is an isolation transformer. i am getting rid of that one. The second transformer powers step attenuator.
No HUMMMM. It is gone forever.
First, I did everything you've (2picoDumb) suggested. And that took care of the grouding issue. No cap buzzing no bloody more.
But the trouble maker was nigh by but so far away. It WAS the BLOODY AC supply line to the relay board running next to my input wires. I should have known better!
Now, it's dead quiet.
The sound. Yes, the sound. I used to run 6sn7gt (12sn7gt for ecnonomic reasons) pre and 6bg6g pp power (said to be close to 6L6).
The tubes have the mids. But the B1 and f6 are very close...very.
The highs and the lows. The B1 + F6 have it. Hands down. Highs are silky...not fatiquing at all. Mind you, my HF are horns. The bottom...tight and no fart bass coming out at all.
2picoDumb. You are the man. Thanks so much for sticking with me. And everyone, you are class acts. Thanks
Papa...thank you and your generous spirit is unmatached. Thanks
Now i gotta go fix my AC pump! dang...but my new friends the B1 + F6 will be singing while i am working.
First, I did everything you've (2picoDumb) suggested. And that took care of the grouding issue. No cap buzzing no bloody more.
But the trouble maker was nigh by but so far away. It WAS the BLOODY AC supply line to the relay board running next to my input wires. I should have known better!
Now, it's dead quiet.
The sound. Yes, the sound. I used to run 6sn7gt (12sn7gt for ecnonomic reasons) pre and 6bg6g pp power (said to be close to 6L6).
The tubes have the mids. But the B1 and f6 are very close...very.
The highs and the lows. The B1 + F6 have it. Hands down. Highs are silky...not fatiquing at all. Mind you, my HF are horns. The bottom...tight and no fart bass coming out at all.
2picoDumb. You are the man. Thanks so much for sticking with me. And everyone, you are class acts. Thanks
Papa...thank you and your generous spirit is unmatached. Thanks
Now i gotta go fix my AC pump! dang...but my new friends the B1 + F6 will be singing while i am working.
Here it is. Changes I made
1. Isolation Trans OUT
2. Moved the AC lines to left side, away from the board.
3 twisted input and output wires (Neg and Pos together per channel)
4. Disconnected the AC green (green wire) from the chassis and directly connected to the PSU
5. PSU neg to the chassis.
6. Super tightened the metal standoffs to chassis
7. AC supply lines to the relay were moved a far away from the input area
8. Polyprop caps are sitting on putty
Attachments
![20200726_193219[1959].jpg](/community/data/attachments/795/795631-f8b0b15363881e491e4d9f9bdcc7d6ef.jpg?hash=-LCxU2OIHk)
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I used 20/2 twisted CU Bell wire from H D hardware store. Solid core copper, a little too thick may be...I paid like under 30 cents a foot.
No harm if they are good quality.. I use Belden, mogami canare all the time. Just feel better as they are proper professional audio standard
Someone recommended this earlier in the thread, but I decided to wait for a GP on a regulated DIY kit instead. The more into get into the DIY scene, the more I realize how important the power supply is. It is very easy to take this for granted and look at the more fun stuff like caps and tubes.
I am glad to see that this works and is noise free - thank you for sharing!
-Geoff