Thanks Brijac!!
I love it when i can use what i have (especially if i bought it by mistake).
I love it when i can use what i have (especially if i bought it by mistake).
Np. As for 270R one, i suggest going for 5W resistor instead of 3W 🙂 Not that much more money, but quite less heat.
Hi All, this has most likely been asked before but has anyone used a motorized volume control on their B1? I was considering adding one to my B1Korg. I read on another site that channel crosstalk can be an issue. Would like to know what others have used. Thanks!
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/16493711073...ar=464467343788&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/16493711073...ar=464467343788&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Attachments
I think for build #3 I'd like to add a third set of inputs (CD, Tape and an input for the Pearl 3). Does anyone have any recommendations for a 3-position switch or rotary selector to use? As this build will need to be double the height to contain the ridonkulous capacitors I'm going to use, I want to get the switch chosen now to give Gianluca the proper specs...I've checked out Mouser, but I've gotta say the number of options makes my little brain explode. So looking for an aesthetic match to either the current selector, or the volume control...Thanks all!
I haven't tried a motorized ALPS, having a remote is VERY nice when I listen to music. I've tried a relay based volume control and MUSE from Academy Audio, both have remotes. I've been very happy with the results since all my other builds use 24 step resistor based. I hate to admit, but, the remote has more influence to me than that last 1% sonic improvement
My first B1 Korg, I used an ALPS, never heard any crosstalk issues, no issues at all. Since it doesn't have a remote, I adjust it once and don't mess with it.
Look at the iSelect by SALAS, TeaBag sells the kits in Group Buys. Has a rotary control and relays for switching, best part is the ability to have LED's indicate switch posistion.
Switch 1: Phono/Line; Switch 2: CD/Tape
Edit: don't know why the quote button is not coming up....
Edit: don't know why the quote button is not coming up....
last post: select some text with mouse, it pops with few options, one of them is quote
confirm it, voila
example bellow , made in exact way
confirm it, voila
example bellow , made in exact way
Output of switch 2 is 'Line' on switch 1.
An amazing job you're doing. Thanks again!ZM, here to serve ........ and protect!
Nothing at all! It was actually a stress-free day of stupid enjoyment. I imagine many more of those in my future.
It took me a bit to complete, post office was on strike for a month, so i had to wait a bit loooonger than expected for the case 🙂
Definitely an improvement all over the board comparing to stock b1k nutube. One step up sort of. Don't know if it's due to jfe2140 jfets, rubycon caps, smaller signal path, or all together, but it rekindles this little fun box again 🙂
Decoupling the nutube works flawlessly. Board and thin wire does the trick on makeup sponges. With those rubber anti vibration pads on screws, there is literally no more microphonics from both case vibrations nor air transported waves. Really pleased with it. Edit: before i forget, i also mounted p089zb smd filter on sponges to further reduce the chance of vibration coupling since it's close to the board and solid core wires tend to be more stiff the shorter they are.
There are some modifications to the board since i built it, namely what i found to be a pain or in general improvement over how it was. Revision contains bigger holes for mounting hole, since anti vibration pads i used go trough the hole and it makes no space for 3mm screws (i advise using them). Bigger soldering holes on input and output, with ground plane it is a pain do desolder gnd pins and remove solder, also made holes for trim pots as they can be a pain to solder without hotplate. Increased solder pads for 10R resistors as they are easier to find in larger smd sizes. Wrote b1k nutube smd clone, next to, thx to pops (which couldn't be seen due to nutube going on top of it). So it's known that it's a clone.
Once again, great little bugger, thanks pops @Nelson Pass for great sound 🙌 As for the gerbers, if you allow it like for the previous TH version, i'll post them.
Definitely an improvement all over the board comparing to stock b1k nutube. One step up sort of. Don't know if it's due to jfe2140 jfets, rubycon caps, smaller signal path, or all together, but it rekindles this little fun box again 🙂
Decoupling the nutube works flawlessly. Board and thin wire does the trick on makeup sponges. With those rubber anti vibration pads on screws, there is literally no more microphonics from both case vibrations nor air transported waves. Really pleased with it. Edit: before i forget, i also mounted p089zb smd filter on sponges to further reduce the chance of vibration coupling since it's close to the board and solid core wires tend to be more stiff the shorter they are.
There are some modifications to the board since i built it, namely what i found to be a pain or in general improvement over how it was. Revision contains bigger holes for mounting hole, since anti vibration pads i used go trough the hole and it makes no space for 3mm screws (i advise using them). Bigger soldering holes on input and output, with ground plane it is a pain do desolder gnd pins and remove solder, also made holes for trim pots as they can be a pain to solder without hotplate. Increased solder pads for 10R resistors as they are easier to find in larger smd sizes. Wrote b1k nutube smd clone, next to, thx to pops (which couldn't be seen due to nutube going on top of it). So it's known that it's a clone.
Once again, great little bugger, thanks pops @Nelson Pass for great sound 🙌 As for the gerbers, if you allow it like for the previous TH version, i'll post them.
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