If using a dpdt toggle switch for power & inputs, and wiring as in 6L6's guide, should it be the on-none-on type or on-off-on ?
Tried Google but found the info confusing.
TIA.
Tried Google but found the info confusing.
TIA.
I've used two 6-pole on-on dpdt switches, I got them at a local shop but they look identical to those in the kit. If in doubt try to search the thread as I remember someone posted the mouser product number a while ago
Is this pre safe to use with a tube amp and Polk SDAs with the interconnect cable? Seeing as its phase inverted and the SDAs need the interconnect cable I am a bit apprehensive of trying it.
Good evenning Mr Pass, i have just receive and build the B1 korg nutube pre and i need some advices from you if you can.First the transistor that they send me for Q1 does not fit in any of the two places (JQ1 or KQ1),( I check the transistor that they send me and it is SDG,see the attached picture) do i need to change the transistors with new one or not? My second question is that i have an extremelly high gain and too much bass sound ,any suggestion please? I build it following your video ,i dont think that i made any mistake.Please help
Attachments
Hi, the photos are very very low in resolution, it's hard to tell exactly what you mean. Can you post them in a higher resolution? Also assuming that you're using all J113 I think I can see that you put Q1 in the right place but Q2 in the wrong place (they should be on the same "J" row, next to each others)
Thanks for your reply,Yes i know that is wrong but i did it because it was the only way to match the Jfets
thrasos:
Your mega tester is mis-leading you. SDG=DSG. Source and Drain are interchangable as far as some testers are concerned. Put all kit supplied J113 devices in the "J" row.
Your mega tester is mis-leading you. SDG=DSG. Source and Drain are interchangable as far as some testers are concerned. Put all kit supplied J113 devices in the "J" row.
You are right ! I put them on J row and sound get much much better, Thanks a lot!! Is there any other suggestion to upgrade it such as better capacitors or something else ?Thank all of you in advance
Hello thrasos,
member ClaudeG made a lot of listening tests with different capacitors in the B1 K Nutube.
I don't remember the post-numbers. You should find it over the search function.
Cheers
Dirk
member ClaudeG made a lot of listening tests with different capacitors in the B1 K Nutube.
I don't remember the post-numbers. You should find it over the search function.
Cheers
Dirk
Before getting into capacitors, plate voltage and signal polarity will have the most effect. Starting with the voltages at T7 an T8 stabilized at +9.5V, try reversing loudspeaker leads and decide which polarity you prefer. Then try upping the T7/8 voltage a bit. I prefer +9.75V with speaker wiring reversed. Your preference may differ based on your specific system. Once you are happy with that, then you can get into smaller refinements like input coupling caps.
Yes, play with the bias and the polarity first.
Then, as Dirk kindly raised, use the search function in this thread, I reported quite extensively on the potential benefits, to my ears, of tweaking caps in the signal path, caps in the PS section, pot, and SMPS filter. All reported in separated detailled posts
Moved a very nice B1K into heaven's league, all IMHO.
Enjoy music
Claude
Then, as Dirk kindly raised, use the search function in this thread, I reported quite extensively on the potential benefits, to my ears, of tweaking caps in the signal path, caps in the PS section, pot, and SMPS filter. All reported in separated detailled posts
Moved a very nice B1K into heaven's league, all IMHO.
Enjoy music
Claude
After five days uptime I can report a wonderful complement to my Aleph J (ZM proto).
Experimenting with 2hd. Currently trying to complement the existing neg phase hd of the J, so voltage currently @ 14V2, ending in positive phase 2hd at the speakers. Currently sounding very good 🙂 better than 9V5 and 9V2, in this particular setup.
will experiment further, and connect my trusty HP equip to try and perfect residual waveforms and all. But currently just enjoying the music. Very chill, extreme relaxation. Smooth sailing.
regards
Andy
Experimenting with 2hd. Currently trying to complement the existing neg phase hd of the J, so voltage currently @ 14V2, ending in positive phase 2hd at the speakers. Currently sounding very good 🙂 better than 9V5 and 9V2, in this particular setup.
will experiment further, and connect my trusty HP equip to try and perfect residual waveforms and all. But currently just enjoying the music. Very chill, extreme relaxation. Smooth sailing.
regards
Andy
Interesting... other than the Bryston... a purist DYI system. I've never heard of those until today.
What did you do to the Raspberry? I got three, been playing with them too. I got a few DACs... I got a DIY F5, A5s, B1 and B1Korg... but my speakers and other preamp are "strictly commercial".... a Sears Poncho if you will.
They are remarkable at the price, 150 USD or so. And easy when building yourself, as they don’t need a crossover in boxes. I didn’t build the cabinets myself, but i wired and damped and stuffed them. Very happy so far.
With the RPi I have soldered dc wires directly to the Digi2 Pro bord, and connected a linear PSU. Theb I soldered a BNC connector to the board, then into the DAC.
These easy mods seem to have smoothed out the highs, and mellowed the mid range creating a more relaxed presentstion, i guess it had to do with the DAC having an easier job with a cleaner and less jittery digital signal 🙂
Forgot a few things. I use DietPi, and have reconfigured the CPU and overclock plus turbo settings, decreasing both temp and strain on PSU, also reducing noise levels. Had a slight effect too. At least I think so… 🙂 I love bias. Cognitive ones too.
I’ll check out those speakers of yours too
Question about adding a second preamp out.
I built one of these with a second output and added a 1K resistor across the positive.
I am only able to get one amp to play at a time. Is there a way to get this to work? Should I remove the 1K resistor?
Amps are an F5 and a Rogue stereo 90 tube amp.
I built one of these with a second output and added a 1K resistor across the positive.
I am only able to get one amp to play at a time. Is there a way to get this to work? Should I remove the 1K resistor?
Amps are an F5 and a Rogue stereo 90 tube amp.