For jfets not JQ1,Q2 places ( is empty ) but KQ1,Q2 matched pairs on the pcb positions,
R1 = 0 R ( in practice solder some short piece of the wire in that places )
Best regards
Ringing when switching inputs -- do you think that is due to mechanical movement of the switch or some kind of electrical causation? If mechanical, surely there'd be ringing also when you tapped the chassis, etc?
Double-stick squares? I wonder if the benefit is sticking the tube to the pcb, or is it simply the calming benefit of sticking the foam to the tube to suppress vibrations?
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Thank you very much for your advice.For jfets not JQ1,Q2 places ( is empty ) but KQ1,Q2 matched pairs on the pcb positions,
R1 = 0 R ( in practice solder some short piece of the wire in that places )
Best regards
Up an running. No problems with microphonics..I gorilla taped half the foam (the piece the nutube was seated in) to the pcb..slightly pushed the tube into the foam & soldered. Then another piece of gorilla supervisor tape on the far edge of the tube to secure to foam. I also used very rubbery 1/2 stand offs I had. Used DynaMat on inside bottom & top of case. Once I got my pots wired correctly....doh...the sound is very nice. Good bottom end..clean mids & not at all harsh highs...I’ve been switching between Wayne’s BA18 & a 12ax7 I built & it’s interesting how good the nutube sounds. There all different fo sure but the overall character I’m leaning with nutube. I deviated slightly from standard parts & built a SMPS meanwell supply with PO89ZB-A filter...I increased bias to 10v...I’m driving F6 and it sounds good with various speakers from efficient to no so much. Only I single input & a pair of outputs.
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If you want go fancy 0 Ohms resistor ZOR-25-T-52-0R Yageo | Mouser France
but fat clean solid core copper wire do the job
Have fun!Attachments
@ ClaudeG
In the past I repair music synthetizer rack and find on the pcb this type of enigmatic components.
Lesson lear this was 0 Ohms resistors.
Some time if current is high , ceramic around wire dissipate portion of the heat.
B1 K current is tiny..
See inside of the extract from original Mr. Pass article
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Congratulations
great B1K build!Plenty of high quality components are ready inside
After my experiments PSU resistors is important and I get nice "silence & smooth" touch
with the use of the 2 x 10R and 270R industrial quality cheap wire wound resistors.
Can be inductive is only for the power supply filtering , better resistors made without magnetic materials : steel.
Go for 5 or + Watt's dissipation if physical size dimensions match the pcb.
Cost few bucks from Mouser, Digi-Key etc.
The basic parts package was not available when I bought my kit from the diyaudio store, so I'm ordering from Digi-key, etc.
I am having trouble finding good but relatively inexpensive RCA jack for the rear panel, especially with the shoulder washers included. I can find the parts in a number of places, but the bad reviews are seriously off-putting.
Can anyone point me to a good source for these? (USA source preferred)
I am having trouble finding good but relatively inexpensive RCA jack for the rear panel, especially with the shoulder washers included. I can find the parts in a number of places, but the bad reviews are seriously off-putting.
Can anyone point me to a good source for these? (USA source preferred)
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I saw those, didn't look closely 'cause I thought you had to buy all the colors as a set. I get it now, you choose the colors you want.
Do you find them to be a good fit for your cables? Many of the reviews I read on various jacks in this price range spoke of center connector being too tight or ground not connecting firmly, etc.
I have an unused set of RCA sockets that came with this kit. Please feel free to PM me if interested.
I should share something That I use with every Nutube circuit/board. Since this tube can be micro-phonic, I go out of my way to address it. The one point that I would like to share is that there are soft silicone standoffs used for computer fans. The can also be used on circuit board mounting holes. To go even further small O rings can be incorporated with the standoffs to take up slack when using them. I simply use a good quality silicone glue to anchor the standoffs to the chassis.
I've been using Parts Express #091-1120 RCA jacks on all my projects. $6.99/pair, $6.07/10+pairs. Not cheap but not bad and good quality.
I see you've got an offer for some freebes though....
Wow, those Neutrik ones are so much cheaper though...
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As I was investigating vibration reducing solutions, I came across this genre from the model airplane community where, apparently, engine vibration impacts the control electronics. Looks promising, depending on how soft the rubber is . . .
https://www.amazon.com/iFlight-Anti-Vibration-Mounting-Hardware-Controller/dp/B073NYV6RH/ref=pb_allspark_session_sims_desktop_2?pd_rd_w=X7KQ5&pf_rd_p=bfefd6e2-acb1-463d-94d0-38a6e00f41d3&pf_rd_r=TTK200MND158EGHKE87E&pd_rd_r=f803193a-d47d-4891-873a-8745efd72d6e&pd_rd_wg=oqsR0&pd_rd_i=B073NYV6RH&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/iFlight-Anti-Vibration-Mounting-Hardware-Controller/dp/B073NYV6RH/ref=pb_allspark_session_sims_desktop_2?pd_rd_w=X7KQ5&pf_rd_p=bfefd6e2-acb1-463d-94d0-38a6e00f41d3&pf_rd_r=TTK200MND158EGHKE87E&pd_rd_r=f803193a-d47d-4891-873a-8745efd72d6e&pd_rd_wg=oqsR0&pd_rd_i=B073NYV6RH&psc=1