My B1 has been naked for months, waiting for the official case 🙂 , good news!I just hope to buy one before they run out.
Thx!
Thx!
I was told the parts and kits will be advertised on this thread first, then the folks that sent in the request for contact when the kits are available. I am on both and I'm in for One Chassis!!!
The first run won't be very big, we want to get some into builders hands and see if there's anything pressing that needs to be changed. (I doubt there will be any issues at all, but it doesn't hurt to be careful...)
Not sure how to interpret that statement 6L6. Does that mean you are only selecting a few folks to sell the first batch to or are you only going to sell the chassis with the full kits and not to those of us who already have parts? If so, I've seem to have managed to shoot myself in the foot again by ordering the parts that shipped yesterday. 😎
And another question... is anyone using this animal to feed an F5? I'm considering the F5 for my next project.
Yah I'm using it for my F5 and love it.
Before I had the B1 I had P3 on the F5 dialed to have more 2nd harmonic because it made it have a richer sound. At the P3 middle setting, the harmonics were the lowest and it was super clean and clear but lacked some low end. Now that I am using the B1 to drive the F5, I've tuned the F5 back to this middle position because the B1 provides 2nd harmonic. Now it's clean and clear sounding and it has punch.
Or at least that's what I tell myself.
On the other hand, I don't use the B1 for my ACA monoblocks. Those sound better without it to me. I know that's what everyone says on this thread but I swear it just sounds better to me without it.
Before I had the B1 I had P3 on the F5 dialed to have more 2nd harmonic because it made it have a richer sound. At the P3 middle setting, the harmonics were the lowest and it was super clean and clear but lacked some low end. Now that I am using the B1 to drive the F5, I've tuned the F5 back to this middle position because the B1 provides 2nd harmonic. Now it's clean and clear sounding and it has punch.
Or at least that's what I tell myself.
On the other hand, I don't use the B1 for my ACA monoblocks. Those sound better without it to me. I know that's what everyone says on this thread but I swear it just sounds better to me without it.
It wasn't supposed to mean anything other than the first run will be small. Probably 50 units. Make sure it's awesome, get some feedback, etc... and more will be ordered.
Chassis will be available separate from the parts kit.
Well I consider that a pretty definitive source. I'm ordering the DIY parts and matched Ebay transistors today. I guess I need to wait for the PS PCB to become available again now.
6L6 thanks for that clarification. I'll step back from the cliff now...
Mrshazbot also thanks for that feedback. I too have an ACA I just built. That's what I'll use the B1K for initially. I was going to build another AKA, but I think I'd rather build the F5 to use with preamp.
A very good afternoon on the site today for me. Thanks folks!
My experience also, although you might try adjusting the Korg for a
little positive phase and see what you get....
I'm sure after searching for days I can find discussions on this on this DIY forum, but I would like the opinion of you Pass hard core group on this. I would think with folks spending mega-dollars on just speaker wire, that there may be suggestions on wire type/manufactures for internal wiring on the Pass builds. Or are these runs so short it's irrelevant and any good quality wire of the proper gauge is OK? Just curios before I start this build this weekend.
Wire gauge for amplifier's signal level input.
It has been discussed previously, but no consensus yet. Better stay clear of this topic not to disturb any speaker wire enthusiast.
It has been discussed previously, but no consensus yet. Better stay clear of this topic not to disturb any speaker wire enthusiast.
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A long time ago, on my first electronics DIY effort, building headamp I used some VDH leftovers of speaker wire AWG16 as signal wire . No longer than 1ft and twisted. Pot to pcb and to RCA...
To cut long story short, after weeks of hussle of tracking the source of oscillating I ended rewiring to 22AWG and all the problems were solved. Since then I never use or suggest wire gauges over 20 for internal signal wiring
Just my 2 cents
To cut long story short, after weeks of hussle of tracking the source of oscillating I ended rewiring to 22AWG and all the problems were solved. Since then I never use or suggest wire gauges over 20 for internal signal wiring
Just my 2 cents
Must be the skin effect they were arguing about in my link above. I am almost done using 16 AWG, but I will probably do as you say and rewire with a thinner cable. Thanks, and no thanks. 😛
It is very much dependent on circuit. I could also listen to some radio station at that time 😀
I'd leave the 16 AWG. Check this link. The capacitance is vanishingly small at the length of runs you'll use and the gauge of wire.
Wire Capacitance Calculator
Wire Capacitance Calculator
I have 22awg hookup wire in both solid and stranded. I assume that will get the job done. I also intend to use teflon shielded on the audio in/out wiring. I assume that meets most standard practice.
And Rewind I've had some interesting conversations on everything from Speaker wire to USB interconnects. But I appreciate the warning!
And Rewind I've had some interesting conversations on everything from Speaker wire to USB interconnects. But I appreciate the warning!
Got the kit from DIY and all the other parts from Mouser today. I ordered everything from Nelson's write-up on the R1 board. The BOM calls for qty2 100 ohm .4 watt resistors to populate the board but the board requires 2 per channel so I needed to order 4. So I won't be able to finish the board this weekend unfortunately. Someone needs to correct that in the PDF.
Exactly how I feel.
My brain likes a B1 without Korg in front of ACA mono blocks.
My brain likes the B1 with Korg in front of more “clinical” low distortion amps.
What a great hobby!