Hm. That is still undecided. I am running Minidsp 10x4HD but it is long overdue for an upgrade, to something like the LXmini active crossover, if I manage to build one with a few more channels.
sources approaching Rout of 1K and more are weaklings , calling for 50KLog volume pot
sources around 600R and lower Rout, you can use 25KLog and going lower to 10KLog
so , schematic from post #1 - you can choose value of vol pot on input ....... i
sources around 600R and lower Rout, you can use 25KLog and going lower to 10KLog
so , schematic from post #1 - you can choose value of vol pot on input ....... i
Back to my plan on adding lots and lots of channels (like 4 or 5 in total) on the LXmini. If I succeed, I wonder if that could make it a "weakling". There is no way of telling for sure until it is designed so I am not expecting an answer. 😛 I thought this would be a simple question and now I don't even have a question...
Zen Mod, what effect would result using a 50kLog have on a source with low Rout? I’ve ordered 50k pots as depicted in the Nutube PDF schematic. Any effect on sound quality?
Thanks
put link to (basic) schematic you want to use , and I can reply properly
greater the value of Volume pot , greater influence of interconnect cables capacitances and inductances
depending of source Rout , that difference is sometimes irrelevant , sometimes not ....... but say that 50K is preeety much still in safe area
The Audio software that should be able to show phase of distortion was not Dante but Diana:
Index of /diana/
I have not tried it yet. My anti-virus system does not allow me to get it.....
Ok......then you will get an image like the many I have attached of the screen using Arta + Focusrite. Depending on the resolution of the ADC in your scope.....you might not get as good a measurement as ARTA + Focusrite and I don't think you can detect the phase of the distortion. Most cheap scopes use 8 bit resolution? .....the e.g. top-notch Tektronix use a better (higher resolution) ADC/DAC and has less noise.....but few DIY people has scopes like this 🙂 ....PassLab has I am sure 🙂
You are so right 🙂 I could't detect phase.
I feel the urge to read more about ARTA-Focusrite-combo.
Yes, my experience with FFT on the cheap scopes is that it is a "toy" more than a "tool". A kind of sales parameter. The Arta + Forcusrite is a fine tool. Will see if i can get Diana software installed to be able to detect phase.
As meper says, most digital oscilloscopes only have 8-bits in the vertical range, and that's not nearly enough to FFT a clean sine wave of a fundamental and see harmonic spikes. They are just not made to measure in that way.
answer to dewdrop # 2105
Hello Ed,
sorry for the late response - I had birthday yesterday. Thanks for all your wishes...
You asked for the cables I used in my B1 NUTUBE Pre to connect the NUTUBE with the pcb (if I understood the question right?).
That is a very thin braided litz wire, pure copper 0,14 mm², silver plated.
I soldered it directly to the pcb and to the NUTUBE. Those contacts at the NUTUBE are easily bended! During soldering a little care has to taken.
Then tubeshrink over the contacts of the NUTUBE.
Used the same cable (braided it myself) from pcb to the 10 kOhm potis.
Shielded NF-cables (blue ones) are from the german company Sommer Cable.
(Pretty low capacitance, OFC-copper, flexible, good price).
If you have further questions... 😕 ask
Greets
Dirk 😀
Hello Ed,
sorry for the late response - I had birthday yesterday. Thanks for all your wishes...
You asked for the cables I used in my B1 NUTUBE Pre to connect the NUTUBE with the pcb (if I understood the question right?).
That is a very thin braided litz wire, pure copper 0,14 mm², silver plated.
I soldered it directly to the pcb and to the NUTUBE. Those contacts at the NUTUBE are easily bended! During soldering a little care has to taken.
Then tubeshrink over the contacts of the NUTUBE.
Used the same cable (braided it myself) from pcb to the 10 kOhm potis.
Shielded NF-cables (blue ones) are from the german company Sommer Cable.
(Pretty low capacitance, OFC-copper, flexible, good price).
If you have further questions... 😕 ask
Greets
Dirk 😀
questions about how loud is NUTUBE + M2X #2099
Hello NUTUBE - builders,
many are thinking about the question: Is B1 Nutube PreA + M2X playing
loud enough?
I only can tell you my experiences:
At the moment my B1 NUTUBE and M2X are playing together. Source is my
musicserver playing flacs (with foobar).
My loudspeakers are a selfconstruction. Easy to drive 2-way-speaker:
4 Ohm, 91 dB/W/m.
I am listening to Dave Brubeck at the moment sitting 5 meters away from loudspeakers at the laptop. The room is 10 metres x 4.5 metres.
Volume pot is at 25% and I can listen easily to the music in the hole room at
normal listening level. B1 Nutube at 50% is pretty loud.
Is Dave in the house?
I read in many posts, that many have loudspeakers with efficiencies of more than 95 dB. So I would dare to say that this combo should drive your speakers
easily. But it is a different game if your loudspeakers are 8 Ohm (gives you less drive). Many diyPass-amps half there wattage from 4 Ohm- to 8 Ohm - speakers.
I hope this helps you
Greets
Dirk
Hello NUTUBE - builders,
many are thinking about the question: Is B1 Nutube PreA + M2X playing
loud enough?
I only can tell you my experiences:
At the moment my B1 NUTUBE and M2X are playing together. Source is my
musicserver playing flacs (with foobar).
My loudspeakers are a selfconstruction. Easy to drive 2-way-speaker:
4 Ohm, 91 dB/W/m.
I am listening to Dave Brubeck at the moment sitting 5 meters away from loudspeakers at the laptop. The room is 10 metres x 4.5 metres.
Volume pot is at 25% and I can listen easily to the music in the hole room at
normal listening level. B1 Nutube at 50% is pretty loud.
Is Dave in the house?
I read in many posts, that many have loudspeakers with efficiencies of more than 95 dB. So I would dare to say that this combo should drive your speakers
easily. But it is a different game if your loudspeakers are 8 Ohm (gives you less drive). Many diyPass-amps half there wattage from 4 Ohm- to 8 Ohm - speakers.
I hope this helps you
Greets
Dirk
Attachments
B1 NUTUBE M2X temperatures
Perhaps also interesting:
Some temperature measurements (those class a- babies heat and sun is shining in-
30 C temperature in my listening room)
B1 NUTUBE: JFets are at around 35 - 42 C (temperature) after 1 hour
M2X: measured at the outside of heatsink / where the Fet sits inside
51 C - not bad for an extra heater
But I can touch the heatsink for 10 seconds - Nelson Pass rule
The room is on 'fire'
Greets
Dirk
Perhaps also interesting:
Some temperature measurements (those class a- babies heat and sun is shining in-
30 C temperature in my listening room)
B1 NUTUBE: JFets are at around 35 - 42 C (temperature) after 1 hour
M2X: measured at the outside of heatsink / where the Fet sits inside
51 C - not bad for an extra heater
But I can touch the heatsink for 10 seconds - Nelson Pass rule
The room is on 'fire'
Greets
Dirk
Attachments
This guy added a 24R resistor to lift earth for fear of ground loops. Any cons doing this?
Nelson Pass B1 Buffer Pre-Amplifier DIY | DASK (Sound Kontrol)
"The earth is lifted by a 24R resistor. The B1 does not strictly need this when used on its own but sometimes I have tested it feeding a Vacuum Tube active stage in a separate case; such as the 12B4 pre for example. In other words I have CD Player --> B1 --> Active Tube Stage --> Power Amp. This then gives some final gain (about 5db) to drive the F5 power amp. As a result the audio earth needs to be separated from the B1 by some small R to avoid an earth loop."
Nelson Pass B1 Buffer Pre-Amplifier DIY | DASK (Sound Kontrol)
"The earth is lifted by a 24R resistor. The B1 does not strictly need this when used on its own but sometimes I have tested it feeding a Vacuum Tube active stage in a separate case; such as the 12B4 pre for example. In other words I have CD Player --> B1 --> Active Tube Stage --> Power Amp. This then gives some final gain (about 5db) to drive the F5 power amp. As a result the audio earth needs to be separated from the B1 by some small R to avoid an earth loop."
I have a Meanwell AC/DC converter LRS-75-24 (75W/24V) in the drawers..
Is it possible to use this converter for the B1 Korg?
Is it safe to put it directly in the same box as the preamp B1 korg or is it better to place each in a different box to have the least possible interference ?
Thank you for your answers
Is it possible to use this converter for the B1 Korg?
Is it safe to put it directly in the same box as the preamp B1 korg or is it better to place each in a different box to have the least possible interference ?
Thank you for your answers