B1 builders thread

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It worked out cheaper for me to buy PRP from the us than to order from the UK . To start with the PRP were 38 cents each and with shipping I saved 20 quid on the UK total ... this is "RIP OFF BRITAIN" after all !

If Arik is around . I had a look at the other thread . I saw a beautiful enclosure , some very clever wiring ,but no schematic !

Rich.

Did you look on post #2547 of the thread B1 Buffer Preamp?
Eric
 
It worked out cheaper for me to buy PRP from the us than to order from the UK . To start with the PRP were 38 cents each and with shipping I saved 20 quid on the UK total ... this is "RIP OFF BRITAIN" after all !

If Arik is around . I had a look at the other thread . I saw a beautiful enclosure , some very clever wiring ,but no schematic !

Rich.

Hi Rich, wow I guess the components are pricey in UK. The 0.1% ones here are about $1 Canadian (that's about what , 60P?).
Arik did really great work on the enclosure, all hand build and finished..so we need bigger & better pictures too!!
 
OK , OK I'm as blind as a bat ... It was the we hours euro time :eek: But thank you .

Its not 100% clear about the selector switch ,but the socket wiring seems pretty clear .

Will I be able to use Balanced out to my XA's and RCA in from my DAC and Pearl with no issues ? I don't have a balanced source at present ,but the near future may bring something .

I still need to select between to RCA connected sources. Can I just make my out put XLR and leave inputs RCA- again with no issues ?

Just seeing what is possible :)

Rich
 
OK , OK I'm as blind as a bat ... It was the we hours euro time :eek: But thank you .

Its not 100% clear about the selector switch ,but the socket wiring seems pretty clear .

Will I be able to use Balanced out to my XA's and RCA in from my DAC and Pearl with no issues ? I don't have a balanced source at present ,but the near future may bring something .

I still need to select between to RCA connected sources. Can I just make my out put XLR and leave inputs RCA- again with no issues ?

Just seeing what is possible :)

Rich

If you want to go from an RCA input to an XLR, you will need a converter. I used the DRV-134 PCB board from Per-Anders.
UBC01 Audio Balanced Driver
Per Anders had made a group buy a while ago.
Eric
 
What have I done?

This is embarrassing as it is such a simple build but when I finally hooked up my B1 buffer things did not go according to plan. When input 1 is selected only one channel plays. When I switch to input 2 the other channel plays (only)???

I imagine I have miswired the dpdt switch or the pots but I have been reading through this thread and comparing build pictures and they look to be the same. Please help! :confused:

The build uses the standard parts Mr. Pass discussed in his article.
 
This is embarrassing as it is such a simple build but when I finally hooked up my B1 buffer things did not go according to plan. When input 1 is selected only one channel plays. When I switch to input 2 the other channel plays (only)???

I imagine I have miswired the dpdt switch or the pots but I have been reading through this thread and comparing build pictures and they look to be the same. Please help! :confused:

The build uses the standard parts Mr. Pass discussed in his article.

It is very likely a simple mistake. At least you know you have it partially right on first try :)
Please post some pictures or drawing of your built, it will help us help you.
Cheers,
Eric
 

6L6

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The back of your selector switch has 6 terminals - when viewed from the back:

12
34
56

Place your meter on beep (continuity)
put one test lead on 4
put the other on 2
flip the switch up - does it beep? Good if it does.
place the lead that was on 2, onto 6. Does it beep? It shouldn't.
Flip the switch down. Does it beep?
 
Yeah , agreed . A good, safe solution . This is my progress so far ...

I have an Alps 50k pot and a Grayhills selector from an old passive I had laying around . I get the continuity test bit, but to be honest , :scratch: about the rest ( VIRGIN ). Its a nice buzz though.

Happy Halloween USA !
 

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????????'s

The selector has a ring of pins around the top and 2 pins on opposite sides below them .... Are the lower 2 the ground and the above pins + I have done a test and numbered them . Ground to 1,2 and 3 on both sides . Each side being left and right ?

On the Pot .. 2 rows of 3 pins .1 row per channel ,L & R ,the centre pin of each row being the ground ?

The input on the board is in fact , the output signal to the selector - signal from there , to Pot and back to board ?

I have CCW ,W , CW then CW , W , CCW . The signal from the pot goes to here as my out put ?

I have searched Youtube tutorials and the web, but really struggling . I have a drawing of the selector ( may as well be Mandarin ) Ahhhhh ! I have'nt googled pot yet !!!! Shall do that after Breakfast . :)

thanks to any that can help , Rich

PS, the mac power supply is 20.46 vdc . SAFE !
 

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Rich I think that the selector switch has six inputs and the two lower tags will be the left and right outputs but I would check that with a dmm. The volume controls are pretty straight forward on one channel you have to cross over the outer 2 connections. I think its the right channel but I'll have to take the lid off mine to check.
 
Hi 6L6,

I tried the continuity test the other day and found that with the switch up there was continuity between 3 and 5 and when down, between 2 and 4. I was frustrated and didn't understand how I could have wired it wrong... until while flipping the switch back and forth I found a moment of continuity between 1 and 3 and then 5 and 6. And further slight "rocking" of the switch got both channels to work.

It seems it was the switch after all. :)
It works, but is a bit finicky so I may have to change it out. It's an e-switch if I remember correctly.

In any case I really like the B1 and think it will improve when I run the NOS caps a bunch of hours. Now on to try an LDR and compare with and without the B1. Thanks 6L6!

The back of your selector switch has 6 terminals - when viewed from the back:

12
34
56

Place your meter on beep (continuity)
put one test lead on 4
put the other on 2
flip the switch up - does it beep? Good if it does.
place the lead that was on 2, onto 6. Does it beep? It shouldn't.
Flip the switch down. Does it beep?
 
The volume pot uses the cw, ccw and w connections. Look carefully at your pot for the numbers 1, 2 and 3 by the lugs.
ccw will be the ground connection, w is the wiper on the pot and cw is hot.
Many (most) pots are numbered with 1 being ground or ccw, 2 being the wiper or w and 3 being hot or cw.
From there you are best off sleuthing your selector with the dmm.
Hope this helps.
3°C and drizzle in Minnesota on a Sunday AM
 
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