Hello,
I'd like to ask some questions of a few of you fellows who have actually built this (using Nelson's boards). Here are some questions to start off:
1) Is there a parts list (with suppliers) posted anywhere?
2) As I understand it, I only need a single board? Is this board for audio only or does it cover the power supply also?
3) What about a easy to understand schematic for using a toroid rather than a so-called "wall wart" power supply?
4) Or, would a "wall wart" power supply be just fine?
5) Does anyone have an online source for the PEC volume pots?
I realize I'll need "extras" such as an enclosure, RCA jacks, a selector switch and the volume pot. Anything else I might consider ordering? I though of standoffs for the board.
Maybe more questions down the line too. I'd like to build one. Just so you know I am an amature, although I have build several Bottlehead kits with success.
Thanks in advance for you help! I'm sure some of my answers appear in this very lengthy thread, which I will attempt to read in its entirety.
My e-mail is ms_williams@hotmail.com if you need it.
Mark
I've never built anything before and was able to put it together and worked right the first time. There is a nice step by step instruction and answers to your questions in this thread here:
DC-Coupled B1 Buffer Build
It had become my reference preamp now replacing a more expensive tube preamp 😀
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Thanks for the information
Hello,
Thanks to you and all the fellows who have posted so far! Wow.
I need to find out if these power boards are still available.
You guys have been great. I'm sending off my order to Nelson Pass today for his board with fets.
Mark
Hello,
Thanks to you and all the fellows who have posted so far! Wow.
I need to find out if these power boards are still available.
You guys have been great. I'm sending off my order to Nelson Pass today for his board with fets.
Mark
The PSU board like the one in my build is available from Peter Daniel here on the forum,
His website - Audiosector.com
I will send a PM to you with his email.
His website - Audiosector.com
I will send a PM to you with his email.
Can I use this "Balanced Volume Pots"?
I have a B1 and am thinking to change the volume pot. I ran into this:
Balanced Attenuator
Would this work on the B1? I don't know the difference between "Balanced Volume Pots" and "unbalanced volume pots". I guess the B1 is an unbalanced for volume on left and right channels?
Thanks!
I have a B1 and am thinking to change the volume pot. I ran into this:
Balanced Attenuator
Would this work on the B1? I don't know the difference between "Balanced Volume Pots" and "unbalanced volume pots". I guess the B1 is an unbalanced for volume on left and right channels?
Thanks!
Yep, the GlassWare attenuator will work very well.
And by "balance" he means that it has a balance control built into the attenuator. It's a neat design.
Also, the value of the attenuator (28k) is almost perfect!
And by "balance" he means that it has a balance control built into the attenuator. It's a neat design.
Also, the value of the attenuator (28k) is almost perfect!
I have a B1 and am thinking to change the volume pot. I ran into this:
Balanced Attenuator
Would this work on the B1? I don't know the difference between "Balanced Volume Pots" and "unbalanced volume pots". I guess the B1 is an unbalanced for volume on left and right channels?
Thanks!
that looks like its used for balanced signals. try the other one if your not running balanced. I use it and sounds great with B1
Bigdirty - good catch. The single ended model is this -
NEW! The New-Old TCJ Stepped Attenuator
Ans it's avaliable in 20k. It will be a good fit!
NEW! The New-Old TCJ Stepped Attenuator
Ans it's avaliable in 20k. It will be a good fit!
I have a problem with my B1 after removing C100 and C200... My B1 is a production version bought from Reno. Because my DAC has coupling caps at the output and I measured almost no DC at the output, I thought I could remove the coupling caps at the input of the B1 without a problem. However, now I have a very distorted sound... Sounds like a clipping amp, even at lower volume level... I didn't put the caps back to check if it's O.K. again, but I am quite sure I didn't make a mistake. (except for removing the caps perhaps...) ;-)
Is there an explanation for this behaviour?
Thanks in advance,
Mark.
Is there an explanation for this behaviour?
Thanks in advance,
Mark.
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you´re right. i used on of these for my best friend´s tube-buffer.
nice quality and a good idea to use SMD-resistors, leads to short
signal path.
And i´m going to use on of these for my B1, too
but doesn´t the B1-Manual says the pot should be linear ?
I have a problem with my B1 after removing C100 and C200... My B1 is a production version bought from Reno. Because my DAC has coupling caps at the output and I measured almost no DC at the output, I thought I could remove the coupling caps at the input of the B1 without a problem. However, now I have a very distorted sound... Sounds like a clipping amp, even at lower volume level... I didn't put the caps back to check if it's O.K. again, but I am quite sure I didn't make a mistake. (except for removing the caps perhaps...) ;-)
Is there an explanation for this behaviour?
Thanks in advance,
Mark.
It puts out 9V DC towards your source, that is why. Put them back.
O.K.
Aren't the coupling caps (which are situated just before the output connectors) in my source blocking that DC?
Aren't the coupling caps (which are situated just before the output connectors) in my source blocking that DC?
Yes, but they get polarized unintentionally who knows how without data of the source circuit. Hence the distortion.
you´re right. i used on of these for my best friend´s tube-buffer.
nice quality and a good idea to use SMD-resistors, leads to short
signal path.
And i´m going to use on of these for my B1, too
but doesn´t the B1-Manual says the pot should be linear ?
Yes linear pots are what is listed.I used PEC linears when I built a B1 and swapped them into a DCB1 but they give limited movement of the pot going from quiet to loud in a quarter of a turn. Someone on the forum mentioned a Goldpoint style attenuator they'd found on ebay so I bought one and have not regretted it. The DCB1 is a class act.
Thanks Salas, I will put them back. Perhaps I should convert it to DC-coupled version to get rid of the caps sometime.
Who would want to have a linear power variation in a volume control? Never tried, but looking at the rotation degree vs. listening level, seemed to me quite unconfortable.
Hmm... i´m still a little puzzled, why the B1-Manual calls for a linear pot....
anyway... thanks for the reply´s to clear thing out.
i´ll go for the usual log attenuator
anyway... thanks for the reply´s to clear thing out.
i´ll go for the usual log attenuator
Unbalanced Right and Left Channels
I know this would sound old because I have that problem long time ago. There was a time I thought I had solved this problem.
The issue: My B1's left channel is 3-6 dB lounder than the right channel.
This is confirmed last night by the new SPL measurement tool as with my ears.
What I've done:
- The issue is with B1. I've switched channels, switched pre-amp, using the same test tone from the same amplifier and the etc. This is not my room has more reflective on the left side. The measurement was taken from the same position (Speaker was placed in the same position).
- Checked all resistors. The stereo volume pot has the same resistance on both channels. There are two resistors next to diodes that I cannot get a reliable readings.
- All grounds are zero. I did a chasis ground in a metal enclosure.
- I used the PCB and matched JFETs from Pass.
I have a DMM and a LCR. What should I check for where the problem might be? I switched back to HK 635 as the preamp. The B1 sounds way better so I think I'd like to work on this issue again.
I know this would sound old because I have that problem long time ago. There was a time I thought I had solved this problem.
The issue: My B1's left channel is 3-6 dB lounder than the right channel.
This is confirmed last night by the new SPL measurement tool as with my ears.
What I've done:
- The issue is with B1. I've switched channels, switched pre-amp, using the same test tone from the same amplifier and the etc. This is not my room has more reflective on the left side. The measurement was taken from the same position (Speaker was placed in the same position).
- Checked all resistors. The stereo volume pot has the same resistance on both channels. There are two resistors next to diodes that I cannot get a reliable readings.
- All grounds are zero. I did a chasis ground in a metal enclosure.
- I used the PCB and matched JFETs from Pass.
I have a DMM and a LCR. What should I check for where the problem might be? I switched back to HK 635 as the preamp. The B1 sounds way better so I think I'd like to work on this issue again.
Input the same test tone to both channels.
Measure the output voltage of each channel.
I use the same test tone. So I should measure the output voltage when the machine is in operation?
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