just my opinion:
use a very quiet linear PSU with or without a very quiet linear regulator.
The DCB1 is exactly that. A quiet linear PSU feeding a very quiet linear regulator to power the DC coupled version of the B1.
use a very quiet linear PSU with or without a very quiet linear regulator.
The DCB1 is exactly that. A quiet linear PSU feeding a very quiet linear regulator to power the DC coupled version of the B1.
In my B1, using a quality switch-mode 18V wall-wart was no problem. Just don't skimp on the B1 RC filter. You could easily bump up the R part as well, the current draw is quite small and it won't drop a lot of voltage there.
As AndrewT says, the DCB1 has a really nice PSU. It should, considering most of it is the PSU, hehe.
As AndrewT says, the DCB1 has a really nice PSU. It should, considering most of it is the PSU, hehe.
If you take a look at a couple of the write-ups on "Enjoy the Music" you will read the reviewer's comments. He did say that he intended to build another PS for the B1 at some point.
Guys:
Just the amp section done. You can see the Russian 1uf PIO caps and the 10uf brown polies. The PS will be built on the same brd. The Alps blue velvet pot is also a part of the same brd. 4oz black chrome knob adorns the sctructure.
Just the amp section done. You can see the Russian 1uf PIO caps and the 10uf brown polies. The PS will be built on the same brd. The Alps blue velvet pot is also a part of the same brd. 4oz black chrome knob adorns the sctructure.
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You make it look like such a difficult build! LOL
Okay if you are still thinking whether or not to build I think this pic should assuage your concerns of difficulty. You guys can do this.
Uriah
Okay if you are still thinking whether or not to build I think this pic should assuage your concerns of difficulty. You guys can do this.
Uriah
Can I use one of Peter Daniels PSU Boards as Power Supply??
If I use a 24VAC toroid and populate the borad as for the F5 I should get a decent signal, dont you think?
Or would I need a lin. power regulator such as a 7818??
If I use a 24VAC toroid and populate the borad as for the F5 I should get a decent signal, dont you think?
Or would I need a lin. power regulator such as a 7818??
24VAC will give quite a bit after rectification. You can regulate it down of course, plus you'll get more stable DC that way. Get it down to between 18 and 24V and you shouldn't have problems.
The B1 on vero-brd. was far simpler than this ESP P37A discrete component class A preamp from Rod Elliot again on vero-brd. More active components in this one. If you like the B1 the P37A should also please.
I built this for an Malaysian friend who I have built a lot of amps etc. for. There is no PS here. I ran it on four 9V batteries to run it in. Very natural uncoloured sound.
http://sound.westhost.com/project37a.htm
I built this for an Malaysian friend who I have built a lot of amps etc. for. There is no PS here. I ran it on four 9V batteries to run it in. Very natural uncoloured sound.
http://sound.westhost.com/project37a.htm
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A little more progress. The PS is now on the brd. The only other part I added was a 0.1uf poly across the B+. Where Pass suggests 2 X 15,000uf filter caps I used 2 X 10,000uf 'cause that's all I had.
For those who hadn't noticed I had the CCS FETs backwards. I lost two hours pulling one JFET for another.
For those who hadn't noticed I had the CCS FETs backwards. I lost two hours pulling one JFET for another.
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Hello guys! I would like to build a Nelson Pass's B1 buffer. I have try to order one with the matched transistor but I can not get the order from Passdiy.
Do you have or know how I can just order one of this boards and matched transistors.😕
and also will I need to keep the input caps in my amp after I use this B1?
Thanks guys!
Just call them and place your order by phone.
russellc
The build was pretty easy. The good thing about it being not too difficult is the ease at which parts can be substituted for others. Cap & resistor swaps are common with B1 builds.
In my build, not put in an enclosure as yet, I use a mix of Obbligato Premium 1uf & Russian 10uf K73-16 Caps (Output) & Naked Vishay 330r resistors where they will have the most effect on the sound quality.
The B1 is great to work with & even better to listen to.
In my build, not put in an enclosure as yet, I use a mix of Obbligato Premium 1uf & Russian 10uf K73-16 Caps (Output) & Naked Vishay 330r resistors where they will have the most effect on the sound quality.
The B1 is great to work with & even better to listen to.
Simle designs, that have amazing properties are lovely, aren't they? 🙂 B1 is pretty much the perfect example.
BTW, kudos for the Obbligatos - I use the film-in-oil ones and they're so good I probably wouldn't use another brand unless size restricts me. I can imagine the premium foil ones aren't any worse either 🙂
Also - not "smile" designs, but "simple" designs (re: last post). Although the B1 makes me smile 🙂
Also - not "smile" designs, but "simple" designs (re: last post). Although the B1 makes me smile 🙂
Now the cct. brd. is finished I had a quick listen. Seem to have good low-end weight. More to come.
I have had a brief listen on my main system with my 6AS7 SET power amp. Bass is light with mids/treble absolutely fab. Sound stage and imaging stunning. I will trial the B1 on a high-end DIY discrete 200W transistors amp soon. Gain is a bit low for my SET.
Playing a gold pressing, re-mastered Frank Sinatra CD which is the best I have heard this CD. More to come.
Case is Hammond. Gold RCAs with selectable inputs. 4oz solid brass black chrome knob on Alps blue velvet. Inside all the hook-up wire is cotton coated, tinned solid copper wire. Hard to work with.
PS in a Toshiba 19V 3.5A SMPS.
Playing a gold pressing, re-mastered Frank Sinatra CD which is the best I have heard this CD. More to come.
Case is Hammond. Gold RCAs with selectable inputs. 4oz solid brass black chrome knob on Alps blue velvet. Inside all the hook-up wire is cotton coated, tinned solid copper wire. Hard to work with.
PS in a Toshiba 19V 3.5A SMPS.
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I have had a brief listen on my main system with my 6AS7 SET power amp. Bass is light with mids/treble absolutely fab. Sound stage and imaging stunning.
There are some resistors to swap from original schematic to improve bass. I don't have time to look right now but I think there are 4x 1k resistors that I swapped for 100R. The difference in the low end is huge. It will be fairly early in the thread...
Best,
Chris
There are some resistors to swap from original schematic to improve bass. I don't have time to look right now but I think there are 4x 1k resistors that I swapped for 100R. The difference in the low end is huge. It will be fairly early in the thread...
Best,
Chris
I left the preamp on over night and bass has lifted. More to come.
Done some tests; -3db points 5hz -> 780Khz. Peak voltage (p2p) into 10K = 13V, into 1K = 8V p2p.
"Cotton coated wire for an SMPS supplied board "
I'll assume you like both??
There are some resistors to swap from original schematic to improve bass. I don't have time to look right now but I think there are 4x 1k resistors that I swapped for 100R. The difference in the low end is huge. It will be fairly early in the thread...
Best,
Chris
There has been much talk about changing the 4x1k resistors you are talking about with Naked Vishay 330r's. Improvements have been noted.
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