Thank you for the reply, I am signed into YouTube and still cannot view the video. Seems like I have to unscrew the center point of the midrange?
- " However, you'll find the assembly diagram (Drawing PDF) in here: B&W Group North America Service & Support - B&W Archive Manuals & CAD Drawings "
Galu and OP, the PDF of post 7 works perfectly for me and there is the detail of the assembly of that speaker........
I tried sending a message to BC2013, but I am unable to per conversation module.
Hello, I was reading your past thread and I too am having issues removing the midrange speaker. I tried watching the video but it comes up as private. Can you please grant me access? or please explain how to do it. I really do not want to fudge this up.
Thank you
Hello, I was reading your past thread and I too am having issues removing the midrange speaker. I tried watching the video but it comes up as private. Can you please grant me access? or please explain how to do it. I really do not want to fudge this up.
Thank you
El Dudu, it may help if you tell us exactly what is wrong with your CM10 S2 speakers, just in case there's a simple solution.
Gentlemen, the issue has been resolved. A bit of courage and armed with the advice from this thread helped out.
Thanks
Galu, I had no sound coming from my tweeter. I didn't want to just assume it was the tweeter. I was trying to remove the midrange speaker to access the tweeters connections to make sure there was no loose wires/connections or if it wasn't a failed crossover.
I purchased a spare tweeter full housing to have just in case it was the tweeter. Once I gained access to the tweeter wires I tested the resistance using a ohmmeter and got a reading of .8, the new tweeter read 5.8. The old tweeter was bad so just swapped em out and now we are all good.
Thanks
Galu, I had no sound coming from my tweeter. I didn't want to just assume it was the tweeter. I was trying to remove the midrange speaker to access the tweeters connections to make sure there was no loose wires/connections or if it wasn't a failed crossover.
I purchased a spare tweeter full housing to have just in case it was the tweeter. Once I gained access to the tweeter wires I tested the resistance using a ohmmeter and got a reading of .8, the new tweeter read 5.8. The old tweeter was bad so just swapped em out and now we are all good.
El dudu, as Troels says, "a burned out driver is always a misused driver"
So I hope you know what you did wrong, so history doesn't repeat itself.
So I hope you know what you did wrong, so history doesn't repeat itself.