AussieAmplifiers NX150 Spyder

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Whether your fuse or cuircit breaker for that line pops everytime you turn your amp on is dependant on some factuors. First, some Toroidals, like those from Plitron, claim to not surge when they first come on. They refer to it as a built in softstart function. I'm not sure how that works or if it even works. I can say this, I have turned on two 600va's at the same time without it popping my 15 amp breaker, but it did dim the lights quite a bit. The best solution, the one I will use once I have some time, is a Soft Start Cuircit. This device normally switches in some resistors between the line and the transformer for a timed period, say 30 seconds, then letting the transformer come on to full load. This "softens" the startup, and keeps it from tripping the breaker. Now having said that, 1.5kva is about the limit for a single 15 amp breaker, and is really pushing it. I would say, personally, anything over 1kva should be used on a 20 amp dedicated breaker for best results with decent headroom. In my old Listening room I had two 20 amp breakers run to the front of the listening room dedicated to my equipment. Even with that, if I had all of my amps on those and was doing loud testing of some sort, I would still pop the breakers. Also, often with my Class A amplifier connected, which is a Chinese Accuphase Clone from Lite Audio, I would pop the breaker just by plugging my vacuum into the outlet. It makes sense, a 12 amp vacuum and a 200wpc Class A amp on one 20 amp breaker will probably pop a breaker.

I actually bought 3 of those Genesis Transformers and 6 of the Inductors. I also bought 12 of the 22mf capacitors. This was so I could have an indipedant supply for each amplifier. When you consider the total "wattage" of each power supply, compared with each single amp, it was totally overkill. I still want to do this, and actually would even increase the capacitance. The problem is, where do you find room for all of that. Even if you built a 6 chassis amp, with seperate power supply chassis for each amp, your talking a lot of space and big bucks. My plan is to buy some aluminum stock, or possibly have some custom cases made that can internally isolate the transformer and inductors from the amplifiers, while making good creative use of space. That way, I will be able to 3 somewhat compact amp enclosures, while still having my overkill. However, in order to do this, I have been thinking about using a company like Par-Metal which can custom make an enclosure at an affordable price. My concern is that, I have heard the quality isn't that good. ATI is another good option, but doesn't offer the customization at as affordable a price.
 
pjpoes said:
My plan is to buy some aluminum stock, or possibly have some custom cases made that can internally isolate the transformer and inductors from the amplifiers, while making good creative use of space.

That way, I will be able to 3 somewhat compact amp enclosures, while still having my overkill. However, in order to do this, I have been thinking about using a company like Par-Metal which can custom make an enclosure at an affordable price.

My concern is that, I have heard the quality isn't that good. ATI is another good option, but doesn't offer the customization at as affordable a price.

Look like my casing will head to head :hot: with your custom made later 😀

This is fun PJPoes, even my friend Jopie said tell him
just buy from us, He never regret to buy the most 😀
expensive casing from Indonesia :bigeyes:
 
pjpoes: " ... My plan is to buy some aluminum stock, or possibly have some custom cases made ... I have been thinking about using a company like Par-Metal ..."

jeffry_widjaja: " ... Look like my casing will head to head with your custom made later ..."

See also DIYEnclosures.com ... I am currently trying to get a couple of their enclosures ... web site picture indicate a good fit with '150, '400, '500 etc. :smash:
 
I actually have some DIY Enclosures, but I have two issues with them. First, the enclosures, though well priced, are too thin for my goals. The second is that they are having a heatsink supply problem right now, and it would require that I source my own. That's not a big deal, but now that I have some experience with aluminum, I think I could make my own easier. The advantage of Par-Metal is that I can spec the enclosure as I please, even having them drill all the holes I want. Though the regular enclosures are no better than DIY Enclosures in aluminum guage, you can ask them to make them thicker if you want, and it only changes the lead time and price slightly. The nice advantage of something like ATI is that they have some really nice looking enclosures, made very well, and are more than enough. The problem is that they are expensive, and I can't spec certain custom things without a sizable up charge. We shall see, nothing is yet set in stone. One of the probelms with premade enclosures is the size. I think the best way to fit these as monoblocks with the CLC power supply is in a thin but tall enclosure. If I mount the inductors standing up inside the enclosure I can keep the width down to under 10 inches, but I still need one that is the length of the inductors, transformer, and capacitors, and then have enough space for the modules, wires, etc, without compromising a good layout for minimizing hum and noise. Another option is something like VTL and Mark Levinson have done, where its narrow, but deep and tall. Then I could mount the power supply at the bottom, amp at the top, and have a goos space between those two, to minimize noise.

Oh and Jeffry Widjaja, I agree, this is fun. I not only love people with your level of enthusiasm for this hobby, but having two similar projects going on at similar times is great. We can really learn and benefit from each others experiences.
 
plate

pjpoes said:
My plan is to buy some aluminum stock, or possibly have some custom cases made that can internally isolate the transformer and inductors from the amplifiers, while making good creative use of space. That way, I will be able to 3 somewhat compact amp enclosures, while still having my overkill.

Heiii ... Look
what have i got in my garage
 

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Wrong measurement

At the first time i plan to use 02 mm for up & bottom
but i make mistake in measurement so i can use this
( Minus / do not include top side of heatsink )

But its ok i can use this in other project letter 😀
 

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Wrong Measurement Again ???

After my friend make some picture about casing
and replacement for all member of amplifier
i found that my new up & bottom is minus 20mm

Grrr Blarrr Grrr ... Bang ... Bang ... Bang :hot:

But its ok i can use this in other project letter 😡
(This realy ... realy emptying my saving )
 

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All the plate i have are full with scratch
No one look a normal plate
this will add my job :xeye:

For make them all in one unit include heatsink
i use solid stainless stell, this is raw material

I must buy another Bottom & Up plate again
the market place was terrible traffic jam :bawling:
 

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Bottom Plate Change

As I remember in PETER DANIEL MODS

He change the bottom plate of ML 38 with copper
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=33409

I think this is can be copied in my bottom plate amplifier
But this plate have weight 4 kg

05 kg Heatsink
08 kg Torodial
04 kg bottom plate
02 kg Front & back plate
01 kg Up plate & Solid stainless
20 kg amplifier weight wooow
 

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Copper Plate

So i buy the copper plate for 36 x 35 mm
The cooper condition is the worst from
the other and the price was bad (US$ 45)

When i buy this copper plate i forgot something
Yes i forgot to buy the alumunium for up plate
I must go there once again :bawling:
 

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anodized in jakarta

can someone teach me how to anodize & plating alumunium
I dont find it in Jakarta ?

Jeffry,

I know a place in Bandung that can do the black anodizing. It was quite costly, though.

The cost to anodize one heatsink (just like the one you posted earlier) was IDR 140rb (around $16) and that was back in 2003. It should cost more now, I think.

Thx....
 
SORRY FOR DELAYED

Dear All Fans of NX 150

Very sorry for delayed in new posting NX150
Due to my move to another office so im very busy
right now

Must make responsibility report
Must make handover report
Must make Job Pending Report
Must make steps of my work report

Must take boss angrynest too 😀

Hope everybody success on their amplifier build
 

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Start work for the casing

Hii

After all my office finish so i start to work
my front plate, back plate and heatsink.
:smash:

There a little mistake on the front plate
so i will "drilling" it again, make it perfect
:hot:

Oh yes what kind of cable you use for :
- DC from PSU to Channel
- Signal from RCA input to channel
- Signal from channel to binding post

This is my front plate, backplate and heatsink
this casing i use for my Prototype I Amplifier
😀

I use secondhand heatsink, not use condrad
if some works fail so i can put it on trash can
😀
 

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Interconnect

Please help me, i realy dont know about this !


Can someone explain to me about the cable

- From the "Power Supply" unit to "channel amplifier"
Is this right to use electric cable or interconnect ?

- From the "RCA Input" to "channel amplifier"
Is this right to use rca cable or interconnect ?

- From the "channel amplifier" to "bindding post"
Is this right to use speaker cable or interconnect ?

Can i use interconnect cable to all part of this ?


What is different between to use copper & silver
thank you
 
Re: Interconnect

[
Can someone explain to me about the cable
- From the "Power Supply" unit to "channel amplifier" Is this right to use electric cable or interconnect ?
It is wise to use thick wire like those in the power cable. Don't use anything thinner than those from your transformer.

- From the "RCA Input" to "channel amplifier" Is this right to use rca cable or interconnect ?
Not sure what is the RCA cable you mean here. Anyway, this is where you want to use good quality hookup or interconnect cable as these wire carry the signal from the source. 2 to 4 x 24ga should be enough.

- From the "channel amplifier" to "bindding post" Is this right to use speaker cable or interconnect ?
Well, these signal feed the speaker and you should use the same wire here.

Can i use interconnect cable to all part of this ?
Not advisable.

What is different between to use copper & silver.
Mainly cost. However, they do sound different and its depend on personal taste and system. Try them last when you fine tune the system for your taste.

My 2c. Have fun 😀
 
Thanks for your advice SamL 😀
I will search for the cable like your advise

I know some tips from some electronic shop
but im afraid they just want to sell they product only
so the best thing was the product which available in store
just subjective opinion from the owner :hot:

---

Dear my best friend Hartono,
- where are you ?
- whats your project now ?

I hear a story about you from the old diyaudio member
wooow cant believe the story 😀 :hot:
even he didnt believe me if you wrote in this threads 😀
GET BIG SUCCESS !!!
 
RCA CABLE

SamL said:
[
Not sure what is the RCA cable you mean here. Anyway, this is where you want to use good quality hookup or interconnect cable as these wire carry the signal from the source. 2 to 4 x 24ga should be enough.

My 2c. Have fun 😀

Dear SamL

What i mean for RCA Cable is Interconnect 😀

Cable we use from source / CD Player to Pre Amplifier
or from Pre Amplifier to Power Amplifier

Best Regards
 
W O R K S H O P

Hii

Today picture about all activity in “the workshop”
If Hartono or Si_Jopie here maybe they can help me
For translate “Bengkel Bubut” in English 😎

This is my “Up Plate” in the spindle machine
I don’t have the spindle machine myself so
I take all the part of casing to the workshop :hot:

This picture caught when they make it to real square
They cut the size maybe 10mm in every side
Hmmm Looks the professional audio shape now 😀
 

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