TOTAL COST
TOTAL COST until these days
US$ 118 - Heatsink 2 @ US$ 59
US$ 250 - Left Channel
US$ 100 - PSU3 Left
US$ 250 - Right Channel
US$ 100 - PSU3 Right
US$ 174 - 12 Elna Caps @ US$ 14.5
US$ 992
all the cost in here are not include shipment & custom
TOTAL COST until these days
US$ 118 - Heatsink 2 @ US$ 59
US$ 250 - Left Channel
US$ 100 - PSU3 Left
US$ 250 - Right Channel
US$ 100 - PSU3 Right
US$ 174 - 12 Elna Caps @ US$ 14.5
US$ 992
all the cost in here are not include shipment & custom
Total Cost for my friend NX 150
US$ 250 : Left Channel
US$ 250 : Right Channel
US$ 99 : PSU
US$ 24 : NI FW 6 x US$ 4
US$ 623
all the cost in here are not include shipment & custom
We are waiting for torodial come to us now
because of this now we have more time to make
our own casing
US$ 250 : Left Channel
US$ 250 : Right Channel
US$ 99 : PSU
US$ 24 : NI FW 6 x US$ 4
US$ 623
all the cost in here are not include shipment & custom
We are waiting for torodial come to us now
because of this now we have more time to make
our own casing
Attachments
Some Torodial Seller
From Aussie manual instruction, we need 400va-625va
( best for single ) and 625va-800va ( best for stereo )
For 800va, i ask directly to the saint because im afraid
his NX150 will less power when drive the forest 😀
He said 625 va is enough but for safety can change
to 800va, 45v with secondary winding
This is some Torodial website
http://www.plitron.com/standard_ratings.asp
http://www.avellindberg.com/transformers/y23_range.htm
http://www.antrimtransformers.com/catalogue.php?sec=95
http://www.apexjr.com/
steve.apexjr@prodigy.net - give me a choice, he have 80pcs
Genesis Electronic 660VA, 2X45V, 230Volts ( 2 X 115Vac )
Price are #29.95 ea plus shipping
From Aussie manual instruction, we need 400va-625va
( best for single ) and 625va-800va ( best for stereo )
For 800va, i ask directly to the saint because im afraid
his NX150 will less power when drive the forest 😀
He said 625 va is enough but for safety can change
to 800va, 45v with secondary winding
This is some Torodial website
http://www.plitron.com/standard_ratings.asp
http://www.avellindberg.com/transformers/y23_range.htm
http://www.antrimtransformers.com/catalogue.php?sec=95
http://www.apexjr.com/
steve.apexjr@prodigy.net - give me a choice, he have 80pcs
Genesis Electronic 660VA, 2X45V, 230Volts ( 2 X 115Vac )
Price are #29.95 ea plus shipping
Attachments
casing
sometimes if i look for casing, someone change the
ground plate with the bronze
If we use bronze plate for the ground / below plate
of amplifier is there good effect here ?
Because the bronze is
- More weight than alumunium
- More expensive than aluminium
- More conductor too, is this dangerous ?
waiting info for casing, help me
sometimes if i look for casing, someone change the
ground plate with the bronze
If we use bronze plate for the ground / below plate
of amplifier is there good effect here ?
Because the bronze is
- More weight than alumunium
- More expensive than aluminium
- More conductor too, is this dangerous ?
waiting info for casing, help me
I mean copper
Hiii How are you, Hartono ! Long time no see
I mean copper but i dont know why i type that one
beside blocks RFI better, is there any good improvement
if we use it the copper ?
if i buy al plate for
- alumunium : 3mm, 350 x 350 mm cost US$ 10 weight < 1kg
- copper : 3mm, 350 x 350 mm cost US$ 40 weight < 4kg
Can we hit by the electricity if we touch them
when amplifier in the on position ?
For the torodial, yes he offer it when i ask about torodial
you can contact steve there email address in here 😀
steve.apexjr@prodigy.net
Is there not available torodial cheaper than this ?
I think China is the king for the cheapest now
Hiii How are you, Hartono ! Long time no see
I mean copper but i dont know why i type that one
beside blocks RFI better, is there any good improvement
if we use it the copper ?
if i buy al plate for
- alumunium : 3mm, 350 x 350 mm cost US$ 10 weight < 1kg
- copper : 3mm, 350 x 350 mm cost US$ 40 weight < 4kg
Can we hit by the electricity if we touch them
when amplifier in the on position ?
For the torodial, yes he offer it when i ask about torodial
you can contact steve there email address in here 😀
steve.apexjr@prodigy.net
Is there not available torodial cheaper than this ?
I think China is the king for the cheapest now
Attachments
Hi Jeffry~~~~~😀
I just asked today for 500 VA toroid, a bit more expensive than yours !!! but I don't need to pay the delivery if I buy here, I worry about the quality of the transformer here.
aluminum, steel or copper plated (yes plated, I you buy real copper slab it's very expensive) all need to be grounded for safety. (no electric shock if you touch it) you can find place to copper plate steel in jakarta, probably also can copper plate aluminum (no need, aluminum looks good, and block RF almost as good as copper). gold plating~~~ if you like bling bling~~~~
Hartono
I just asked today for 500 VA toroid, a bit more expensive than yours !!! but I don't need to pay the delivery if I buy here, I worry about the quality of the transformer here.
aluminum, steel or copper plated (yes plated, I you buy real copper slab it's very expensive) all need to be grounded for safety. (no electric shock if you touch it) you can find place to copper plate steel in jakarta, probably also can copper plate aluminum (no need, aluminum looks good, and block RF almost as good as copper). gold plating~~~ if you like bling bling~~~~
Hartono
cant bling ~~~ bling
~~~ bling ~~~ bling ~~~ bling ~~~
Sometimes i think is hard to find electroplater
in jakarta, is the same like good component
If i use alumunium they cant plating just roll
and they were in scratch condition
But for Copper can plating easy here
Very hard to make it the case ~~~ bling ~~~ bling
~~~ bling ~~~ bling ~~~ bling ~~~
Sometimes i think is hard to find electroplater
in jakarta, is the same like good component
If i use alumunium they cant plating just roll
and they were in scratch condition
But for Copper can plating easy here
Very hard to make it the case ~~~ bling ~~~ bling
Hartono said:
Hi Hartono,
It would be useful is I use cooper plate at bottom and top plate only?
Thanks
Jopie
Hi Jopie,
---"It would be useful is I use cooper plate at bottom and top plate only?"---
It still helps, but if the iron/steel enclosure is already of good type and thickness, most likely you don't need the copper plating, it's mostly only for cosmetics.
Hartono
---"It would be useful is I use cooper plate at bottom and top plate only?"---
It still helps, but if the iron/steel enclosure is already of good type and thickness, most likely you don't need the copper plating, it's mostly only for cosmetics.
Hartono
Casing Plan
I plan to make two kind of casing
Expensive casing ( 430 x 350 x 100 mm )
Front : Alumunium 12mm thickness, 430 x 100 mm
Back : Alumunium 08mm thickness, 330 x 100 mm
Up : Alumunium 03mm thickness, 350 x 330 mm
Bottom : Copper 03mm thickness, 350 x 330 mm
Hsink : Conrad Heatsink
Weight Prediction: 15 Kg
Generic casing
Front 1 : Alumunium 05mm thickness, 430 x 100 mm
Front 2 : Alumunium 05mm thickness, 430 x 100 mm
Back : Alumunium 02mm thickness, 330 x 100 mm
Up : Alumunium 02mm thickness, 350 x 330 mm
Bottom : Alumunium 02mm thickness, 350 x 330 mm
Hsink : Local Supplier ( Surabaya )
Weight Prediction: less than 10 kg
can someone teach me how to anodize & plating alumunium
I dont find it in Jakarta
I plan to make two kind of casing
Expensive casing ( 430 x 350 x 100 mm )
Front : Alumunium 12mm thickness, 430 x 100 mm
Back : Alumunium 08mm thickness, 330 x 100 mm
Up : Alumunium 03mm thickness, 350 x 330 mm
Bottom : Copper 03mm thickness, 350 x 330 mm
Hsink : Conrad Heatsink
Weight Prediction: 15 Kg
Generic casing
Front 1 : Alumunium 05mm thickness, 430 x 100 mm
Front 2 : Alumunium 05mm thickness, 430 x 100 mm
Back : Alumunium 02mm thickness, 330 x 100 mm
Up : Alumunium 02mm thickness, 350 x 330 mm
Bottom : Alumunium 02mm thickness, 350 x 330 mm
Hsink : Local Supplier ( Surabaya )
Weight Prediction: less than 10 kg
can someone teach me how to anodize & plating alumunium
I dont find it in Jakarta
Hi,
there are a number of anodise threads here.
They link to some very comprehensive instructions.
The leading zeros do not aid clarity.
Too easy to confuse 08 for 0.8 when one might mean 8.
there are a number of anodise threads here.
They link to some very comprehensive instructions.
The leading zeros do not aid clarity.
Too easy to confuse 08 for 0.8 when one might mean 8.
anodize
Thanks Andrew T
I found about anodized in ml 38 mods
but i dont found anymore
maybe i must googling it
Thanks Andrew T
I found about anodized in ml 38 mods
but i dont found anymore
maybe i must googling it
Jeffry..... try to find anodizing in yellow pages.
ARGH...........my noodle fell down on the floor when I type~~~~
ARGH...........my noodle fell down on the floor when I type~~~~
Hey Guys, I've been following this thread with some interest from its start. I too purchased a few NX150 modules, and am very happy with both the Aussieamps customer service, and also the quality of the products. Instead of taking the nice, compact, and neat approach to the amp and use Anthony's premade power supply boards, I decided to try something different. The pictures I will post are currently of a temporary setup for testing. In fact, they aren't even up to date, as I have already changed a few things. The power supply parts all came from Apexjr, and I utilized a CLC design. In the picture the power supply is unfinished, in a test setup. Currently I have bolted everything together, but don't yet have all the capacitors mounted. Eventually I would like to build three monoblocks, which I have the correct amount of power supply parts to do, but don't have the chassis or space to do this. Currently the power supply has two paralleled Genesis Advanced TEchnology 600va transformers, to provide effectivly over 1200va of transformer. The capacitors running before the inductors are Hitachi 22mf caps, currently I have one per rail, but plan to increase this to two per rail. This will add some ripple current head room. I also would like to add two 4700uf caps and some larger value (25uf or so) poly caps, again to help with the ripple current and filtering. Then I have the 8mh inductors, which measure 11mh with only one red wire connected, and at operating temperature. After the inductor is currently a set of 22mf caps in the power supply case, and then a second set in the amp case. I plan to change this so that I have the one set in the power supply case, and two sets in the amp case, possibly even switching to the larger Hitachi caps available from Apexjr. I also would then like to parallel some smaller value caps and larger film caps. I actually would prefer to put a film cap at each amplifier, to bypass the 100uf caps supply caps on board, and also upgrade those to the largest practical size I can fit. I also want to experiment a little with some RC snubber cuircits, ala Carlos, to see how that works out. None the less, in its current compromised state, it sounds great at low to medium levels. I don't listen to music much above 90db's average, and so it sounds great even with those dynamic swings. However I have tested it at higher volumes and I do get a lot of compression and distortion starting around 100db's, which I think is a mixture of the power supply and inadequate heatsinks. Currently I'm using about half of the recomended heatsink for my amps, though rated at just about the acceptable level, if you play the amp really hard for 20 minutes straight, it begins to get too hot to touch, and within 45 minutes the entire chassis is hot. Anyway, here are some pics, and I hope this information provided some learning for everyone. The amp chassis was to test anyway, I bought it for something else and just didn't want to buy one until I knew what I wanted.
Congratulation
Look for Pjpoes
Not talking to much, Finish his X1 quicker than me !
(Experimental 1 , just say : grmbl ... mbl ... mbl )
Ohhh yes, why everybody build the 3 channel amp ?
Is there right extra 1 channel for the subwoffer ?
Nice picture in here too
Is he make some mods in the channel
i will make extra big eyes
Dear my friend Hartono 😀
Thanks for the input
Traktir bang, jangan makan sendiri !
Look for Pjpoes
Not talking to much, Finish his X1 quicker than me !
(Experimental 1
, just say : grmbl ... mbl ... mbl )Ohhh yes, why everybody build the 3 channel amp ?
Is there right extra 1 channel for the subwoffer ?
Nice picture in here too
Is he make some mods in the channel
i will make extra big eyes
Dear my friend Hartono 😀
Thanks for the input
Traktir bang, jangan makan sendiri !
Thanks Jeffery I really appreciated the comments. The amp is 3 channel because its for a theater, Left-Center-Right. I have another amp I'm using for the rear channels, and in the future, plan to build more amps to have all matching channels. This was good enough for now.
The closest thing to a modification, if you will, is the power supply, being such a low noise supply. Ripple on the simulator ranges from between 100 micro volts and 4 millivolts at peak draw. This is less than the standard capacitor filter has at any draw, even idle. The suppose the big question would be, does it sound any different. Since I don't have a standard capacitor supply hooked up, I can't say, I might experiment. I mean, these amps, like any decent mosfet amp, has good ripple rejection, so being this low is of most value for Class A amps, and my purpose was because I'm running them at a higher Bias. Well I will, right now its 200ma quiescent current, but once I have the larger heat sinks, it will be more, around 400.
I will modify the amplifiers in time, but wanted to run them in with the stock parts first, and get a sense for what they sound like without trick parts. This was at Anthony's recommendation. My plan is to next upgrade the input capacitor with something better. That value can range between .47uf and 1uf, so I plan to try not only different types, but different values, and see what sounds best. There are some, though few, Russian Teflon caps available in the .47uf value, so I plan to try and get some of those. I also want to try some PIO caps, along with Polystyrenes, polypropylenes, and whatever else I can get my hands on cheap. After that I will try replacing the resistors with either bulk foil or Cadock resistors, maybe only in key spots, and use Holco or Vishay for the rest. I may try replacing the coupling caps with Wima pp caps.
Another major "power supply" upgrade is those 100uf caps. Besides coming with only so so caps, they are pretty high esr, and among the most important I think. I want to see if I can't fit larger ones, maybe 220, and then bypass them with films. Each Hitachi cap has an ESR of around 7 milli-ohms. For comparison the Panasonic TC 10mf are around 30 milli-ohms I believe. Now if I have two in parallel, so they should have a lower ESR, I've been guessing half, but my assumption is that its probably not exactly half. Then right before the mosfets supply rails you have a fairly high ESR cap, and higher esr increases Ripple. I know they are in parallel with low ESR caps, and that should be taking care of the issue, but I still figure a lower ESR right there would really improve things. I think I already mentioned this, but I also would like to try some RC networks at the end of the PS network, which should improve performance some.
The closest thing to a modification, if you will, is the power supply, being such a low noise supply. Ripple on the simulator ranges from between 100 micro volts and 4 millivolts at peak draw. This is less than the standard capacitor filter has at any draw, even idle. The suppose the big question would be, does it sound any different. Since I don't have a standard capacitor supply hooked up, I can't say, I might experiment. I mean, these amps, like any decent mosfet amp, has good ripple rejection, so being this low is of most value for Class A amps, and my purpose was because I'm running them at a higher Bias. Well I will, right now its 200ma quiescent current, but once I have the larger heat sinks, it will be more, around 400.
I will modify the amplifiers in time, but wanted to run them in with the stock parts first, and get a sense for what they sound like without trick parts. This was at Anthony's recommendation. My plan is to next upgrade the input capacitor with something better. That value can range between .47uf and 1uf, so I plan to try not only different types, but different values, and see what sounds best. There are some, though few, Russian Teflon caps available in the .47uf value, so I plan to try and get some of those. I also want to try some PIO caps, along with Polystyrenes, polypropylenes, and whatever else I can get my hands on cheap. After that I will try replacing the resistors with either bulk foil or Cadock resistors, maybe only in key spots, and use Holco or Vishay for the rest. I may try replacing the coupling caps with Wima pp caps.
Another major "power supply" upgrade is those 100uf caps. Besides coming with only so so caps, they are pretty high esr, and among the most important I think. I want to see if I can't fit larger ones, maybe 220, and then bypass them with films. Each Hitachi cap has an ESR of around 7 milli-ohms. For comparison the Panasonic TC 10mf are around 30 milli-ohms I believe. Now if I have two in parallel, so they should have a lower ESR, I've been guessing half, but my assumption is that its probably not exactly half. Then right before the mosfets supply rails you have a fairly high ESR cap, and higher esr increases Ripple. I know they are in parallel with low ESR caps, and that should be taking care of the issue, but I still figure a lower ESR right there would really improve things. I think I already mentioned this, but I also would like to try some RC networks at the end of the PS network, which should improve performance some.
Holco H4P
I read some review from another forum
about another Teflon Capacitor but the
sound result not as he hope
Let me know what your result between
different value 0.47 uf and 1 uf and mods
with Russian Teflon maybe i can saving
my money too
If you want to search Holco try to find
H4P type it is compatible to replace RN60D
hope it is better than another type before
Tell us about the long story and your big
journey about your mods 😀 that will be a
good recomendation for us.
I read some review from another forum
about another Teflon Capacitor but the
sound result not as he hope
Let me know what your result between
different value 0.47 uf and 1 uf and mods
with Russian Teflon maybe i can saving
my money too
If you want to search Holco try to find
H4P type it is compatible to replace RN60D
hope it is better than another type before
Tell us about the long story and your big
journey about your mods 😀 that will be a
good recomendation for us.
encapsulated transformer
after i look around for some encapsulated
transformer but looking for the
- high grade transformer
- low noise transformer
- encapsulated condition
- best value for money
- not pay a lot for shipping cost
so i found this transformer in RS Singapore
i look this transformer when alexw88 used
it for his BPA 300
If you want to look this transformer specification
- http://www.rssingapore.com/
- look for the find coloum
- type : NUVOTEM 500VA, 2X45V
- Klik FIND cursor
After my friend ask him some question about transformer quality to him, so i follow to buy
this transformer.
Well now, looks like all the amps pending work
can restart again 😀
after i look around for some encapsulated
transformer but looking for the
- high grade transformer
- low noise transformer
- encapsulated condition
- best value for money
- not pay a lot for shipping cost
so i found this transformer in RS Singapore
i look this transformer when alexw88 used
it for his BPA 300
If you want to look this transformer specification
- http://www.rssingapore.com/
- look for the find coloum
- type : NUVOTEM 500VA, 2X45V
- Klik FIND cursor
After my friend ask him some question about transformer quality to him, so i follow to buy
this transformer.
Well now, looks like all the amps pending work
can restart again 😀
Attachments
- Status
- Not open for further replies.