casing
for make my own casing i prepare the important thing
" HEAT SINK "
I listen carefully for destroyerX thread about aussie heatsink
So I order from conrad heatsink, australia
http://www.conradheatsinks.com/products/flat100_350.html
IT IS COLD, I try to look in Indonesia Market, only available
heatsink for machinery industry the better is Heatsink with
size 300 mm x 90 mm x 90 mm ( Too Bold )
I receive the package yesterday but i have no time right
now because i must finish my job in the office, i order 2
conrad Flat Backed Heatsink MF 35 - 100
I buy 350 mm 'cause i look the "better place"
for make my own casing i prepare the important thing
" HEAT SINK "
I listen carefully for destroyerX thread about aussie heatsink
So I order from conrad heatsink, australia
http://www.conradheatsinks.com/products/flat100_350.html
IT IS COLD, I try to look in Indonesia Market, only available
heatsink for machinery industry the better is Heatsink with
size 300 mm x 90 mm x 90 mm ( Too Bold )
I receive the package yesterday but i have no time right
now because i must finish my job in the office, i order 2
conrad Flat Backed Heatsink MF 35 - 100
I buy 350 mm 'cause i look the "better place"
Attachments
Re: Heatsinks for the NX-150 and '150 Synergy ... assuming you are staying within voltage (and power) specs for the '150 series, then that power dissipated (~150+ watts) is what you have to design to accomodate.
Even though MOSFET transistors are more thermally efficient than Bi-Polar transistors, you should still use the "rules" for Bi-Polar heat sinks and "derate" the rules only a very small amount. So even if the 300 x 90 x 90 mm heat sink may run very cold, it is a good idea to use these as per AussieAmplifiers.com specs/suggestions.
Personally I have found that the AussieAmplifiers.com specs are a little on the generous side, somewhat bigger than they need to be, but I would suggest sticking to these larger sinks.
(I am ordering two of the new NX400NL Synergy amp modules and will use an "L shaped" bent, custom aluminum plate as the heat sinks, ~1/4" thick by ~6" by ~10 inches for each amp module, which will be bolted into a 19" rack mounted aluminum chassis ... this chassis will also dissipate heat in addition to the heat sink plates ... rating for this setup would be 2 channels dissipating ~375 watts each X 2 = ~ one horse power =
)
Even though MOSFET transistors are more thermally efficient than Bi-Polar transistors, you should still use the "rules" for Bi-Polar heat sinks and "derate" the rules only a very small amount. So even if the 300 x 90 x 90 mm heat sink may run very cold, it is a good idea to use these as per AussieAmplifiers.com specs/suggestions.
Personally I have found that the AussieAmplifiers.com specs are a little on the generous side, somewhat bigger than they need to be, but I would suggest sticking to these larger sinks.
(I am ordering two of the new NX400NL Synergy amp modules and will use an "L shaped" bent, custom aluminum plate as the heat sinks, ~1/4" thick by ~6" by ~10 inches for each amp module, which will be bolted into a 19" rack mounted aluminum chassis ... this chassis will also dissipate heat in addition to the heat sink plates ... rating for this setup would be 2 channels dissipating ~375 watts each X 2 = ~ one horse power =
)
Interior
Theres a lot negotiation about the case 😀
Even with my wife a interior designer
and she likes minimalis verymuch
When i want to build amplifiers i ask her
what design she like, from some picture
casing with MF 350-100 its the best
You can contact julian wales at sales@conradheatsinks.com
He is kind and give me the quick service and alot tips & trick
Shipment is 15 days with regular air mail service
This is the real heatsink picture, imagine .....
Cote D'or Chocolate is waiting, Hummm ... YUMMY
Theres a lot negotiation about the case 😀
Even with my wife a interior designer
and she likes minimalis verymuch
When i want to build amplifiers i ask her
what design she like, from some picture
casing with MF 350-100 its the best
You can contact julian wales at sales@conradheatsinks.com
He is kind and give me the quick service and alot tips & trick
Shipment is 15 days with regular air mail service
This is the real heatsink picture, imagine .....
Cote D'or Chocolate is waiting, Hummm ... YUMMY
Attachments
Wrong Picture !
My Heatsink Picture is in this posting 😀
sorry this is 5 o'clock in the morning
The picture before was my friend NX 150 KIT
I think He want really realy do the mods
So we will learn seriously about the other component
Will read a lot about another review component & mods
The Motto - What will be, will be ... I just listening 😀
My Heatsink Picture is in this posting 😀
sorry this is 5 o'clock in the morning
The picture before was my friend NX 150 KIT
I think He want really realy do the mods
So we will learn seriously about the other component
Will read a lot about another review component & mods
The Motto - What will be, will be ... I just listening 😀
Attachments
90 x 90 x 300
Hii Fast Eddy
The picture below is my drawing about the heatsink
The product better lokks than my drawing 😀
I look in Indonesia Market, price is US$ 22.25 / each
But must colouring / anodized yourself
The have some measurement
- 90 x 90 x 300 mm
- 90 x 90 x 200 mm
- 90 x 90 x 150 mm ( I forgot )
- 90 x 90 x 100 mm
Weight = 3 - 4 kg / 6 - 8 lbs
If i look detail, looks best if we use THE HEATSINK
for ALEPH 30 😎
Hii Fast Eddy
The picture below is my drawing about the heatsink
The product better lokks than my drawing 😀
I look in Indonesia Market, price is US$ 22.25 / each
But must colouring / anodized yourself
The have some measurement
- 90 x 90 x 300 mm
- 90 x 90 x 200 mm
- 90 x 90 x 150 mm ( I forgot )
- 90 x 90 x 100 mm
Weight = 3 - 4 kg / 6 - 8 lbs
If i look detail, looks best if we use THE HEATSINK
for ALEPH 30 😎
Attachments
Schematic
This is my amplifier schematic
Alot of question ask me about that
For more detail you can look at
www.aussieamplifiers.com about that
This is my amplifier schematic
Alot of question ask me about that
For more detail you can look at
www.aussieamplifiers.com about that
Attachments
jeffry_widjaja: Assuming that the Aleph 30 is about 40-45% efficient and is about 125 watts (25 VDC X 5 Amps = 125 watts, maximum), then if the NX150 is closer to 50% efficient (under normal loads), then the heat sink(s) from an Aleph 30 should be about right for the '150 module(s). The only real way to be sure is to build it and run it and see ... (be sure to set the bias properly as per instructions).
From your diagram above, I assume two torrid transformers and two PS filter boards and two '150 modules on two separate 'sinks ... Yes?
From your diagram above, I assume two torrid transformers and two PS filter boards and two '150 modules on two separate 'sinks ... Yes?
Aussieamps.com
Reading the substantial comments above I was prompted to surf their site.
Frankly I am a bit disappointed, difficult to price what may be needed for various potential Hi Fi solutions.
Found myself having to follow links for basic stuff like heat sinks, transformers & even reviews. Frankly they provide little by way of comparison between their products except topology & power.
Some kits it seems require you to source caps & resistors oneself, hardly an economical solution or one guaranteed to hold the boasted sound quality.
What was it that induced some of you to fork out for their product?
Pete
Reading the substantial comments above I was prompted to surf their site.
Frankly I am a bit disappointed, difficult to price what may be needed for various potential Hi Fi solutions.
Found myself having to follow links for basic stuff like heat sinks, transformers & even reviews. Frankly they provide little by way of comparison between their products except topology & power.
Some kits it seems require you to source caps & resistors oneself, hardly an economical solution or one guaranteed to hold the boasted sound quality.
What was it that induced some of you to fork out for their product?
Pete
Hi Peter,
Are you a DIYer? After building your first amp everything becomes obvious. Going through the process the first time can be a little confusing.
Most kit suppliers, including Aussie Amplifiers, offer kits that include a PCB, all the components and an instruction manual for building one amplifier board. You need to source heatsinks, toriods, switches, wire and cases etc, all the heavy, bulky stuff that cost a lot to post. Most offer just PCB and instructions option for people that already have the componenets or prefer to use more exotic components.
You will find complete kits if you look around. I think Jaycar or Altronics have one, but this limits your options significantly.
Aussies Amplifiers have been around for many years. Their amps and business have a good reputation built up by word of mouth through forums such as this, rather than just selling through a virtual shopfront.
You will find aksing questions here or emailing Ausssieamps direct, will get all the answers you are after.
regards
Are you a DIYer? After building your first amp everything becomes obvious. Going through the process the first time can be a little confusing.
Most kit suppliers, including Aussie Amplifiers, offer kits that include a PCB, all the components and an instruction manual for building one amplifier board. You need to source heatsinks, toriods, switches, wire and cases etc, all the heavy, bulky stuff that cost a lot to post. Most offer just PCB and instructions option for people that already have the componenets or prefer to use more exotic components.
You will find complete kits if you look around. I think Jaycar or Altronics have one, but this limits your options significantly.
Aussies Amplifiers have been around for many years. Their amps and business have a good reputation built up by word of mouth through forums such as this, rather than just selling through a virtual shopfront.
You will find aksing questions here or emailing Ausssieamps direct, will get all the answers you are after.
regards
aussieamps.com et al
Greg,
Your point is understood & it's reassuring to hear your confidence in aussieamps. I may have been a bit harsh but I think it's "fair comment" if the design & info on a website causes one to struggle.
Ordinarily I would just move on & find a better site.
I emailed the above because I have had a bit of help here & was intrigued at the connection
Yes I am a DIY chap, but no I have not previously built an amp.
I beleive I can expect when visiting a site to leave with some estimate of finished cost & a reasonable idea of the benefits of completing such a project.
Pete
Greg,
Your point is understood & it's reassuring to hear your confidence in aussieamps. I may have been a bit harsh but I think it's "fair comment" if the design & info on a website causes one to struggle.
Ordinarily I would just move on & find a better site.
I emailed the above because I have had a bit of help here & was intrigued at the connection
Yes I am a DIY chap, but no I have not previously built an amp.
I beleive I can expect when visiting a site to leave with some estimate of finished cost & a reasonable idea of the benefits of completing such a project.
Pete
Re: aussieamps.com et al
Hi Peter,
I agree with your "fair comment", but I think you should base you judgement on a DIY amp on the comments here and in other forums, rather than relying on web sights. You should also be able to get in contact with people in your area for demos through groups like this. Ideally, websites should give the information that you are after if the medium was being fully exploited for marketing purposes. But you will only get a one sided opinion and most will not show direct comparisons with similar products.
There is a couple of problems with coming up with a completed project price. The price of the components that you are required to source for yourself will vary significantly depending where you are in the world. For example, in Australia, we seem to have reasonably priced toriods and heatsinks but everything else seems expensive. In the US it seems to be the other way round. In Asia, everything is cheap.
Another point, showing the "completed" price of a DIY amp would scare many first timers away. The amp modules themselvs can be less than half the price of the complete amplifier. The "value" of a DIY amp can not be fully appreciated until you have actually built.
regards
peterlo said:
Hi Peter,
I agree with your "fair comment", but I think you should base you judgement on a DIY amp on the comments here and in other forums, rather than relying on web sights. You should also be able to get in contact with people in your area for demos through groups like this. Ideally, websites should give the information that you are after if the medium was being fully exploited for marketing purposes. But you will only get a one sided opinion and most will not show direct comparisons with similar products.
There is a couple of problems with coming up with a completed project price. The price of the components that you are required to source for yourself will vary significantly depending where you are in the world. For example, in Australia, we seem to have reasonably priced toriods and heatsinks but everything else seems expensive. In the US it seems to be the other way round. In Asia, everything is cheap.
Another point, showing the "completed" price of a DIY amp would scare many first timers away. The amp modules themselvs can be less than half the price of the complete amplifier. The "value" of a DIY amp can not be fully appreciated until you have actually built.
regards
I don't think this is a reasonable expectation, particularly when initially found through a DIY Forum.
DIYers tend to become good at reading between the lines, assessing buildability and sourcing components at less than retail cost.
These have a large bearing on what projects are attempted and/or abandoned.
Hmmm, I guess this is a fair call.....
However, a few points:
#1 DIY does NOT save money over mid-priced gear, and particularly over second hand purchases. It educates and instructs, creates familiarity with the hardware, but at best delivers performance many times that available in mid priced commercial gear. It is quality DIYers aspire to, generally not cost savings.
#2 The expectation of total cost is blurred by the DIY aspiration to 'do it their way', that is, to have a specialty case, trick transformers and caps, and generally to personalise the project.
#3 Performance is a tough one, but essentially you need to work the forums to find people like Jeffrey in Jakarta who have built and listened to the amp. You will normally find that such kits easily outperform the commercial stuff, but the word of builders is paramount, much more believable than the vendor.
That said, I know Anthony Holton, I know him quite well and I've heard his amps, though not the latest, which he tells me is palpably better than his past designs. He is an utterly solid citizen, 100% trustworthy, dedicated to designing a better product, and in my opinion king of the high power mosfet kit designs across the globe.
What more do you need? You will need an enclosure ($120), heatsinks ($60), binding posts ($30), power transformer ($90), AC switch ($8), RCA input jacks ($5). I'm pretty sure Anthony supplies a power supply pcb with rectifiers and filter caps. These costs are indicative only and AUD, and will add around $320 more over and above the kit. I do not know Anthony's kit cost but I'm confident this will be the best sounding high power amp you've ever owned, at a bedrock price. The real cost is your labour, of course.
Hope this helps,
Cheers,
Hugh
However, a few points:
#1 DIY does NOT save money over mid-priced gear, and particularly over second hand purchases. It educates and instructs, creates familiarity with the hardware, but at best delivers performance many times that available in mid priced commercial gear. It is quality DIYers aspire to, generally not cost savings.
#2 The expectation of total cost is blurred by the DIY aspiration to 'do it their way', that is, to have a specialty case, trick transformers and caps, and generally to personalise the project.
#3 Performance is a tough one, but essentially you need to work the forums to find people like Jeffrey in Jakarta who have built and listened to the amp. You will normally find that such kits easily outperform the commercial stuff, but the word of builders is paramount, much more believable than the vendor.
That said, I know Anthony Holton, I know him quite well and I've heard his amps, though not the latest, which he tells me is palpably better than his past designs. He is an utterly solid citizen, 100% trustworthy, dedicated to designing a better product, and in my opinion king of the high power mosfet kit designs across the globe.
What more do you need? You will need an enclosure ($120), heatsinks ($60), binding posts ($30), power transformer ($90), AC switch ($8), RCA input jacks ($5). I'm pretty sure Anthony supplies a power supply pcb with rectifiers and filter caps. These costs are indicative only and AUD, and will add around $320 more over and above the kit. I do not know Anthony's kit cost but I'm confident this will be the best sounding high power amp you've ever owned, at a bedrock price. The real cost is your labour, of course.
Hope this helps,
Cheers,
Hugh
Best Support
Hii
Thank you for all input and support
I am very very very appreciate
Why im make it this nx150 build as a thread
because i realy want to know all the things
about amplifier, who knows maybe the other
buyer have make a mods with this amp but
he didnt brave enough to tell it in the forum.
As i told you before "Why dont i move my
budget for creek A 5350i to this nx 150 ? 😀
This is a DIY Forum
Learn to believe one biggest audio family
in the world
Learn to confidence my self to build / assemble
one of the Best Amplifiers which available here
I contact my audio friend here and they are
invite me to compare NX 150 after i finish it
Everybody want to know, how it feel ?
even with someone who have an audio store
the last of my post will tell you what is result
between aussieamp with L***
Maybe this amps cant talk to much but its ok
because it will realy like "DAVID VS GOLIATH"
several time prices with my total cost
If my friend make some mods and having
result better, I WILL FOLLOW HIM ... sure
Still make input for me guys, i realy needed
Oh yes when i ask The Saint about the case
and he send me about this picture
Hii
Thank you for all input and support
I am very very very appreciate
Why im make it this nx150 build as a thread
because i realy want to know all the things
about amplifier, who knows maybe the other
buyer have make a mods with this amp but
he didnt brave enough to tell it in the forum.
As i told you before "Why dont i move my
budget for creek A 5350i to this nx 150 ? 😀
This is a DIY Forum
Learn to believe one biggest audio family
in the world
Learn to confidence my self to build / assemble
one of the Best Amplifiers which available here
I contact my audio friend here and they are
invite me to compare NX 150 after i finish it
Everybody want to know, how it feel ?
even with someone who have an audio store
the last of my post will tell you what is result
between aussieamp with L***
Maybe this amps cant talk to much but its ok
because it will realy like "DAVID VS GOLIATH"
several time prices with my total cost
If my friend make some mods and having
result better, I WILL FOLLOW HIM ... sure
Still make input for me guys, i realy needed
Oh yes when i ask The Saint about the case
and he send me about this picture
Attachments
testimonial for Jeffrey
Hi all,
The first time i'm not interested to build DIY amps because i don't now anything about electronic, capacitor, resistor or other. I think i want save my money and buy a good secondhand power amps for my audio system but Jeffrey gave me a pair of NX150 ver 1.0 and he push me to build this amps. after that i start design my case first : faceplate, layout and backplate.
I know NX150 ver 2.0 is better than ver 1.0 so i change 5 pcs resistor with riken and 1 pcs filter capacitor with mundorf silver/oil (I've a very....very... good price for mundorf) i don't know am i doing right or not, i only hope it can make equal with NX150 synergy.
Maybe next week all the component will complete and i will send all of it to the electronic man in bandung for soldered, tested.... etc....etc....
Please don't reply this, i don't want distrub this thread, i post it just want to say Thank You to my best friend Jeffry.
Hi all,
The first time i'm not interested to build DIY amps because i don't now anything about electronic, capacitor, resistor or other. I think i want save my money and buy a good secondhand power amps for my audio system but Jeffrey gave me a pair of NX150 ver 1.0 and he push me to build this amps. after that i start design my case first : faceplate, layout and backplate.
I know NX150 ver 2.0 is better than ver 1.0 so i change 5 pcs resistor with riken and 1 pcs filter capacitor with mundorf silver/oil (I've a very....very... good price for mundorf) i don't know am i doing right or not, i only hope it can make equal with NX150 synergy.
Maybe next week all the component will complete and i will send all of it to the electronic man in bandung for soldered, tested.... etc....etc....
Please don't reply this, i don't want distrub this thread, i post it just want to say Thank You to my best friend Jeffry.
" ... Aussieamps.com Post #108 ... I was prompted to surf their site ... a bit disappointed, difficult to price ... follow links for basic stuff like heat sinks, transformers & even reviews ... provide little by way of comparison between their products except topology & power ... [kits] require you to source caps & resistors oneself, hardly economical ...[to] hold the boasted sound quality. What was it that induced some of you to fork out for their product? ..."
All to true ... and similar to postings I have seen about many other DIY / Kit sites & catalogs. (I am in the business of online "ecommerce" so I sympathize with potential customers' complaints like "its a jungle out there".) ... But, no one expects a good audio / electronics engineer to be able to do good web pages too, do they?
As for my audio equipment tastes, I have always been intrigued by MOSFET power amps and FET input op-amps ... believing these to be generally better efficiency & distortion wise. I communicated with The Saint ( aka aussieamps@netspace.net.au ) many months ago and his tech responses were right on ... and with careful reading of the AussieAmplifiers.com web site pages (requiring some diligence, as you note), eventually you do discover the price lists and how to make thier online order system work.
My Review / In My Opinion >> AussieAmplifiers.com (Out of "Perfect 10")
Quality of Engineering = 8 (Power MOSFET amplifier best of breed.)
Quality of Modules = 8 (Great build quality, 100% tested, good boards, great production values, hand made but looks like machine work.)
Quality of Kits = 5 (Partial kits, many common parts missing, instruction set truncated, for experienced, advanced builders only.)
Quality of Components = 7 (Early kits used common industrial grade components, latest kits and modules use top quality "golden ear" parts in signal path. MOSFET outputs are key to quality, well matched.)
Quality of Result = 8 (No detectable distortion or odd phase questions without advanced lab test equipment. As good as it gets with solid state for under a grand (US$1000.00), better than most tube amps and better than many hand made high end amps costing orders of magnatitude more. IMOP: solid bass, clear highs out past 16k, plenty of guts, the '150 series can drive big 4 Ohm planar speakers, easily!)
Price v. Performance = 9 (All MOSFET power amp modules are under US$500, complete, ready for the powered chassis ... just add PSU filters, binding posts and connectors and a pre-amp. Kits are about 25% less than modules.)
[Quality of web site = 4 (difficult to navigate, hard to find the price lists. More pictures, better layout needed ... IMOP.)]
If you are interested in updating older equipment to high performance and high efficiency or a newbee to DIY from scratch, it is hard to go wrong with AussieAmplifiers.com 's completed modules. If you are an experienced / advanced DIY builder, try a couple of their kits and discover what keeps me coming back, the results are better than just about anything except possibly tube amps ...
(I just ordered two more amp modules from The Saint for a professional stage performer's road worthy guitar amp, to be driven by a stereo tube pre-amp. These make great power follower amps with broad dynamics [voltage and current dump >= 100 db w/o detectable changes to the audio signal].)
All to true ... and similar to postings I have seen about many other DIY / Kit sites & catalogs. (I am in the business of online "ecommerce" so I sympathize with potential customers' complaints like "its a jungle out there".) ... But, no one expects a good audio / electronics engineer to be able to do good web pages too, do they?
As for my audio equipment tastes, I have always been intrigued by MOSFET power amps and FET input op-amps ... believing these to be generally better efficiency & distortion wise. I communicated with The Saint ( aka aussieamps@netspace.net.au ) many months ago and his tech responses were right on ... and with careful reading of the AussieAmplifiers.com web site pages (requiring some diligence, as you note), eventually you do discover the price lists and how to make thier online order system work.
My Review / In My Opinion >> AussieAmplifiers.com (Out of "Perfect 10")
Quality of Engineering = 8 (Power MOSFET amplifier best of breed.)
Quality of Modules = 8 (Great build quality, 100% tested, good boards, great production values, hand made but looks like machine work.)
Quality of Kits = 5 (Partial kits, many common parts missing, instruction set truncated, for experienced, advanced builders only.)
Quality of Components = 7 (Early kits used common industrial grade components, latest kits and modules use top quality "golden ear" parts in signal path. MOSFET outputs are key to quality, well matched.)
Quality of Result = 8 (No detectable distortion or odd phase questions without advanced lab test equipment. As good as it gets with solid state for under a grand (US$1000.00), better than most tube amps and better than many hand made high end amps costing orders of magnatitude more. IMOP: solid bass, clear highs out past 16k, plenty of guts, the '150 series can drive big 4 Ohm planar speakers, easily!)
Price v. Performance = 9 (All MOSFET power amp modules are under US$500, complete, ready for the powered chassis ... just add PSU filters, binding posts and connectors and a pre-amp. Kits are about 25% less than modules.)
[Quality of web site = 4 (difficult to navigate, hard to find the price lists. More pictures, better layout needed ... IMOP.)]
If you are interested in updating older equipment to high performance and high efficiency or a newbee to DIY from scratch, it is hard to go wrong with AussieAmplifiers.com 's completed modules. If you are an experienced / advanced DIY builder, try a couple of their kits and discover what keeps me coming back, the results are better than just about anything except possibly tube amps ...
(I just ordered two more amp modules from The Saint for a professional stage performer's road worthy guitar amp, to be driven by a stereo tube pre-amp. These make great power follower amps with broad dynamics [voltage and current dump >= 100 db w/o detectable changes to the audio signal].)
Where were we in our long chat, BTW
#1 DIY does NOT save money over mid-priced gear, and particularly over second hand purchases. It educates and instructs, creates familiarity with the hardware, but at best delivers performance many times that available in mid priced commercial gear. It is quality DIYers aspire to, generally not cost savings.
#2 The expectation of total cost is blurred by the DIY aspiration to 'do it their way', that is, to have a specialty case, trick transformers and caps, and generally to personalise the project.
#3 Performance is a tough one, but essentially you need to work the forums to find people like Jeffrey in Jakarta who have built and listened to the amp. You will normally find that such kits easily outperform the commercial stuff, but the word of builders is paramount, much more believable than the vendor
"Where were we in our long chat, BTW?"
Thanks for support Hugh
The best of The Saint, he think and try one another
component to have hi end sound quality. That why
we must pay more to him, for research & development
The worse of me, why dont we try & change component
(after hearing) with the special, maybe we can say
the tittle "Passive Component Test with NX150" 😀
But it is start from The Saint, start give difference caps for
NX 400 with Elna Cerafine 100uf 100v and NX 150 with
Nichicon FG 100uf 100v, so i want to know what the
difference between this ? (Just Want To Know )
Theres an idioms in Indonesia ( sorry ) 😀
If the teacher p** standing so the student wil p** running
and i just a student now so i can p** running too 😀
A Lot Of or A Little increase in Audio, will fair to spend more
money, our ears direct connection with the heart & soul
If caps 10uf 50v US$ 0.2 can get quality as BGN 10uf 50v
so we dont need this BGN, throw it away (I pick up letter)
Where the other can involve
- Tell us something about the other thing like torodial
good or not with softstart if we talk about this in forum
- Input us if we want to use Rickens ex, you can tell us
Noooooooooooooooo, it is macth for tube only 😀 better
use Vishay S 102
- If you have NX150 Module you can work together with us
to completely the detail of the sound
-You can read only and tell us if we do something stupid
Thank you
#1 DIY does NOT save money over mid-priced gear, and particularly over second hand purchases. It educates and instructs, creates familiarity with the hardware, but at best delivers performance many times that available in mid priced commercial gear. It is quality DIYers aspire to, generally not cost savings.
#2 The expectation of total cost is blurred by the DIY aspiration to 'do it their way', that is, to have a specialty case, trick transformers and caps, and generally to personalise the project.
#3 Performance is a tough one, but essentially you need to work the forums to find people like Jeffrey in Jakarta who have built and listened to the amp. You will normally find that such kits easily outperform the commercial stuff, but the word of builders is paramount, much more believable than the vendor
"Where were we in our long chat, BTW?"
Thanks for support Hugh
The best of The Saint, he think and try one another
component to have hi end sound quality. That why
we must pay more to him, for research & development
The worse of me, why dont we try & change component
(after hearing) with the special, maybe we can say
the tittle "Passive Component Test with NX150" 😀
But it is start from The Saint, start give difference caps for
NX 400 with Elna Cerafine 100uf 100v and NX 150 with
Nichicon FG 100uf 100v, so i want to know what the
difference between this ? (Just Want To Know
)Theres an idioms in Indonesia ( sorry ) 😀
If the teacher p** standing so the student wil p** running
and i just a student now so i can p** running too 😀
A Lot Of or A Little increase in Audio, will fair to spend more
money, our ears direct connection with the heart & soul
If caps 10uf 50v US$ 0.2 can get quality as BGN 10uf 50v
so we dont need this BGN, throw it away (I pick up letter)
Where the other can involve
- Tell us something about the other thing like torodial
good or not with softstart if we talk about this in forum
- Input us if we want to use Rickens ex, you can tell us
Noooooooooooooooo, it is macth for tube only 😀 better
use Vishay S 102
- If you have NX150 Module you can work together with us
to completely the detail of the sound
-You can read only and tell us if we do something stupid
Thank you
Attachments
Not Experience Person
For some picture & image i attach in this posting
it is come with the special reason too, why ?
We are realy not experiences as i told before
For Broken Radar LED (No one on) i just better
for Plug and Play with computer card and HD 😀
If i dont give the interesting who will looks the
thread, who will tell me they opinion. If this happen
maybe better i buy branded amp
I say thanks for someone who says looks for vishay
dale for the blue resistor i do it in my last mods and
give an improve in ... bla ... bla ... bla
This time i have "Fear Factor" same as si_jopie382
he is my 250 meter neighbours.
Sometime we just talk about quality of NX150 😎
Like i ask him, if i use 2 toro 2 psu and other good
component what is the sound quality?
What happen to me if the sound just like The Rotel ?
but with his kindness he said IT CANT BE
but maybe true if it is like Cambridge Audio Azur 540
because they are from the same country - aussie 😀
Theres a biggest fight in our heart, why ?
Because we buy this amp without hearing first 😀
We buy it because we read some article or something
Maybe the reason is hope & believe 😎
For some picture & image i attach in this posting
it is come with the special reason too, why ?
We are realy not experiences as i told before
For Broken Radar LED (No one on) i just better
for Plug and Play with computer card and HD 😀
If i dont give the interesting who will looks the
thread, who will tell me they opinion. If this happen
maybe better i buy branded amp
I say thanks for someone who says looks for vishay
dale for the blue resistor i do it in my last mods and
give an improve in ... bla ... bla ... bla
This time i have "Fear Factor" same as si_jopie382
he is my 250 meter neighbours.
Sometime we just talk about quality of NX150 😎
Like i ask him, if i use 2 toro 2 psu and other good
component what is the sound quality?
What happen to me if the sound just like The Rotel ?
but with his kindness he said IT CANT BE
but maybe true if it is like Cambridge Audio Azur 540
because they are from the same country - aussie 😀
Theres a biggest fight in our heart, why ?
Because we buy this amp without hearing first 😀
We buy it because we read some article or something
Maybe the reason is hope & believe 😎
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