looking at this kit to run into some monitor audio R90's they should drive quite nicley?
another question tho, whats the best transformer i can pick up for this amp? money isnt that much of a problem but looking at about £100? looking to build a speced version.
are there any links for some nice connectors jacks and pots or attenures (attenuators?)
another question tho, whats the best transformer i can pick up for this amp? money isnt that much of a problem but looking at about £100? looking to build a speced version.
are there any links for some nice connectors jacks and pots or attenures (attenuators?)
The kits drive nicely, parallel LM4780 is specifically good for higher current demands.
I posted the info on custom transformers with amorphous cores here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=930263&highlight=#post930263 This is what I'm using myself in my personal amps.
As to the connectors, you can find them here:
partsconnexion.com
percyaudio.com
I posted the info on custom transformers with amorphous cores here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=930263&highlight=#post930263 This is what I'm using myself in my personal amps.
As to the connectors, you can find them here:
partsconnexion.com
percyaudio.com
I finally took time to build the USB version of NOS DAC. It is basically same project, just the input BNC is replaced now by USB, CS8412 by PCM2706/7 and clock oscillator added. The regulators and bypassing caps stay exactly the same.
I will soon come up with proper PCBs to clean up the p2p mess 😉 In that prototype I have separate regulators for digital and analog sections of the chip; 3V AN8003 works here fine.
The initial listening impression was actually quite good (considering the rest of the source equipment)😉
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I will soon come up with proper PCBs to clean up the p2p mess 😉 In that prototype I have separate regulators for digital and analog sections of the chip; 3V AN8003 works here fine.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The initial listening impression was actually quite good (considering the rest of the source equipment)😉
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hi Daniel,
What are you using for power on that USB NOS DAC? What's your opinion on battery powered? Is it worth it? Thanks!
Greg
What are you using for power on that USB NOS DAC? What's your opinion on battery powered? Is it worth it? Thanks!
Greg
I'm using 50VA Hammond transformer with dual secondaries. Attached is schematic for SPDIF version.
with USB, the regulators are AN8003, the bypas caps stay the same.
As to the battery power, it's hard choice. I know a lot of people rave about them and I liked them initailly too, but later I switched to AC power only. The batteries don't seem to sound right, especially if AC power is done properly.
Here's my recent impressions on batteries with phono stage: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1154553#post1154553
with USB, the regulators are AN8003, the bypas caps stay the same.
As to the battery power, it's hard choice. I know a lot of people rave about them and I liked them initailly too, but later I switched to AC power only. The batteries don't seem to sound right, especially if AC power is done properly.
Here's my recent impressions on batteries with phono stage: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1154553#post1154553
Thanks for that schematic. I might give that a go. One more question if I may Daniel: what software do you use to come up with your schematics and PCB designs?
Greg
Greg
shallbehealed said:Peter,
Has anyone built a valve buffer for one of your 3875 boards?
whoa. did yet another search and found a nest of worms. sorry for bringing this up.
My LM3875 is now fully operational, both channels. Sounds great!
I'd like to add an LED to indicate when it's on, can anyone tell me the easiest way to do this? I tried to search but came up empty.
I'd like to add an LED to indicate when it's on, can anyone tell me the easiest way to do this? I tried to search but came up empty.
Peter, you were talking earlier about creating a phono stage..how's that coming along? No Pressure! 🙂
Byron
Byron
I posted the schematic of the phono stage that performed really well: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1123520#post1123520
It's simple enough to be built p2p.
It's simple enough to be built p2p.
dake13 said:I'd like to add an LED to indicate when it's on, can anyone tell me the easiest way to do this? I tried to search but came up empty.
Here's how I do it: http://audiosector.com/lm4780 psu.pdf
dake13 said:My LM3875 is now fully operational, both channels. Sounds great!
I'd like to add an LED to indicate when it's on, can anyone tell me the easiest way to do this? I tried to search but came up empty.
If you look closely at the rectifier board (assuming that you are using PD's boards), you'll see holes for an LED and for it's accomanying resistor (R3).
Peter, would you post the schematic of the USB DAC?
How do you plan to isolate the messy PC(especially the ground) from the USB DAC?
Edit: Have you ever tried stacking 2 or more 1543's on top of each other but running separate AN8008 regs for each of them? I'd be curious to hear about it.
How do you plan to isolate the messy PC(especially the ground) from the USB DAC?
Edit: Have you ever tried stacking 2 or more 1543's on top of each other but running separate AN8008 regs for each of them? I'd be curious to hear about it.
I don't have the schematic ready yet, but it's basically the application note of PCM2706/7, the rest is the same as my NOS TDA1543 DAC posted previously.
I'm using dedicated PS, I don't think I can do anything about the grounds.
I tried stacking 4 TDA1543 chips, but the results have been always inferior to using a single chip (no separate supplies though).
Since the pics dissapeared, here's again the prototype:
I'm using dedicated PS, I don't think I can do anything about the grounds.
I tried stacking 4 TDA1543 chips, but the results have been always inferior to using a single chip (no separate supplies though).
Since the pics dissapeared, here's again the prototype:
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