The boards are presently available. I posted the picture already in a different thread. Although they are still not listed on my site, they can be ordered directly. The price is the same, just add a comment that payment is for a new design. Kit price also did not changed.
The rectifiers board, is the same as the new LM3875 board and accepts snubber, more option for bypas caps as well LED output.
The rectifiers board, is the same as the new LM3875 board and accepts snubber, more option for bypas caps as well LED output.
Forgive my curiosity Peter, but did you already start shipping the DAC kits? Or if not, could you give a rough estimate?
I got everything except Rikens. The lead time from Japan is two months now, so I ordered today from Partsconnxion. Will be shipping DACs on Monday.
It was posted here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=614348#post614348
I might try the new boards over the weekend.
I might try the new boards over the weekend.
Some very beautifull stuff is hidden in this topic ...
Respect Peter!!
Can you just give a tip about your hifi rack dimensions?? (especially thicknes) ...
Respect Peter!!
Can you just give a tip about your hifi rack dimensions?? (especially thicknes) ...
The rack is 12.5" tall, 12.5" deep. The space between metal bars is 16", not enough for most equipment, but perfect for ML preamp chassis and small DAC.
The aluminum bars are 1" x 3" , the top shelf is 2.5", two other are 1" ea.
I might start building CD transport soon, so more interesting info to be expected 😉
The aluminum bars are 1" x 3" , the top shelf is 2.5", two other are 1" ea.
I might start building CD transport soon, so more interesting info to be expected 😉
Can't wait to see 😀 😉
Btw - I think I'm guessing right - Aluminium bars have "canals" where plexi plates are stuck in?? Correct?
Btw - I think I'm guessing right - Aluminium bars have "canals" where plexi plates are stuck in?? Correct?
It's the other way: acrylic has cutouts for aluminum bars. Although not really neccessary, it simplifies assembly as everyhning locks in place, and improves appearance as well.
All was done using basic wodworking tools: table saw, router and belt sander. Aluminum was later treated with alodine, took me 3 evenings to build it.
All was done using basic wodworking tools: table saw, router and belt sander. Aluminum was later treated with alodine, took me 3 evenings to build it.
Peter Daniel said:It's the other way: acrylic has cutouts for aluminum bars. Although not really neccessary, it simplifies assembly as everyhning locks in place, and improves appearance as well.
I really agree, the cutouts are the magic touch on that rack

any reason why top shelve is much thicker than bottom ones?
Aha - so you made all plexiglass work by your self ...
Is it hard to do those cutouts in plexi??
Interesting - been considering about pretty much similar stand for my "Patek Line" recently - but ofcourse - "student budget version" - so smaller and with thinner (15mm ones) shelfes and only 2 wide Al bars at sides for suport ...
Is it hard to do those cutouts in plexi??
Interesting - been considering about pretty much similar stand for my "Patek Line" recently - but ofcourse - "student budget version" - so smaller and with thinner (15mm ones) shelfes and only 2 wide Al bars at sides for suport ...
It's pretty easy to machine it. The cut outs were done on all 3 panels simultanously, by multiple runs over a router straight bit.
The top panel is thicker, because I had that particular material in stock, and since the top shelf supports a transport, more solid foundation is achieved. All material was bought surplus. The design was dictated by what was available at the moment of coming with the idea😉
The top panel is thicker, because I had that particular material in stock, and since the top shelf supports a transport, more solid foundation is achieved. All material was bought surplus. The design was dictated by what was available at the moment of coming with the idea😉
What about drilling and tapping?
I've drilled into plexi some time ago - and until holes were around 3-4mm in diameter - without any problems (at lowest speed possible that my stand alone drill machine provides) - but when trying to make 7-9mm - auch ...
Any tips??
I've drilled into plexi some time ago - and until holes were around 3-4mm in diameter - without any problems (at lowest speed possible that my stand alone drill machine provides) - but when trying to make 7-9mm - auch ...
Any tips??
I used 1/4" screws, didn't have any trouble with drilling and tapping. Use some lubricant, it definitely helps, don't let the drill get stuck when it's hot, as it hard to remove it later 😉
For plastiks the drill bit should have sharper angle on the tip.
For plastiks the drill bit should have sharper angle on the tip.
premium dac kit
just received Peter's premium dac kit..looks awesome and easy to finish... Thanks Peter
just received Peter's premium dac kit..looks awesome and easy to finish... Thanks Peter
I made DAC enclosure prototype today. It's pretty straight forward, and no milling is required. If the tube length is chosen properly, attaching font and rear panels can be done by means of on board connectors: RCAs and power module. Additionally, front panel can be glued permanently, rear one provides access to the inside.
The finish is by brushing (on belt sander) and applying alodine, which gives the stainless steel look to the aluminum.
The finish is by brushing (on belt sander) and applying alodine, which gives the stainless steel look to the aluminum.
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