Hello all,
I've had the standard 8" for about six months now. They sound simply wonderful. I built folded voight pipe cabinets for them and I'm running them on a modded t-amp.
I just wanted share my experience with them. They are not a harsh sounding full-ranger at all. They require a significant burn-in period, possibly more than 200 hours before they start showing their true colors. They are not shouty and if you give them time, you will find that they need no sort of notch-filter or a baffle step correction.
They are also extremely sensitive to placement. You cannot expect them to give their best if you just plonk them somewhere in the room. The best result I achieved was by using Cardas' listening room setup (http://www.cardas.com/content.php?area=insights&content_id=26&pagestring=Room+Setup). I also attended to the first reflection by putting some memory foam (bought from target) on the opposite wall. I now get holographic imaging and a wide open soundstage.
The bass, while not powerful, is very clean and clear. You can actually tell one bass note from the other. I wonder how many speakers out there can do this! They do rock and roll very well as well, contrary to what one might expect.
I hope this helps.
I've had the standard 8" for about six months now. They sound simply wonderful. I built folded voight pipe cabinets for them and I'm running them on a modded t-amp.
I just wanted share my experience with them. They are not a harsh sounding full-ranger at all. They require a significant burn-in period, possibly more than 200 hours before they start showing their true colors. They are not shouty and if you give them time, you will find that they need no sort of notch-filter or a baffle step correction.
They are also extremely sensitive to placement. You cannot expect them to give their best if you just plonk them somewhere in the room. The best result I achieved was by using Cardas' listening room setup (http://www.cardas.com/content.php?area=insights&content_id=26&pagestring=Room+Setup). I also attended to the first reflection by putting some memory foam (bought from target) on the opposite wall. I now get holographic imaging and a wide open soundstage.
The bass, while not powerful, is very clean and clear. You can actually tell one bass note from the other. I wonder how many speakers out there can do this! They do rock and roll very well as well, contrary to what one might expect.
I hope this helps.
Scott,
What would you suggest for the placement of the vent on this configuration?
I already built the system and it sounds very good. Still breaking them in. I had Dynaco A25's in the room before them and I am surprised by how well the an10 sounds.
Thanks,
Allen
Thanks,
I have had these drivers for about 2 years and just got the time to build the cabinets for them. So far so good. Internal dimensions are exact. I damped the box according to specs with 2" fiberglass ( i know its a little off might have to reduce this). The port might be a tad high also 8 inches centered from bottom. Still have to veneer, install binding post and make some other small changes.
Allen
Hello all:
I too have a pair of AN cast 10. I am interested in the most suitable cabinet. So far we have :-
1. The 10in will work better in a box type cabinet than their smaller units. For e.g., this MLTL: internal dimensions 56in x 13.5in x 10.5in (HxWxD). Zdriver 21in, vent 3in diameter x 1in long. Line the top, back & one side wall from the top 45in down. Brace to suit, and it's a max-flat alignment, so adjust & damp to taste / your own room / system in practice.
2. 48in x 9in x 7in (HxWxD -you can reverse the second two if you want), Zdriver 17in, vent 2in up from the internal base, 3in diameter x 5in long. Stuff 0.485lbs ft^3 from the top 29in down. Alternatively, line the top, back & one side-wall with 1in acoustic fiberglass down to the bottom. This is the QW equavalent of an EBS alignment which will match well to room-gain in practice.
And there's a couple of other similar to each other:- 54H X 18.75w X 14.75D with a 6 inch port/vent with no extension. Or a slightly smaller 50H (same other W and D measurements) but with a 3 inch port/vent.
I like the sound of option 2. But only because I could paint paint it bright magenta/pink/ or purple...and hopefully capture something of the Zu look! I think most of the cabinet sizes came from you Scottmoose. So thanks, you're a audio treasure! What do you reckon would be the best option? An MLTL...
Kind Regards: Dave
I too have a pair of AN cast 10. I am interested in the most suitable cabinet. So far we have :-
1. The 10in will work better in a box type cabinet than their smaller units. For e.g., this MLTL: internal dimensions 56in x 13.5in x 10.5in (HxWxD). Zdriver 21in, vent 3in diameter x 1in long. Line the top, back & one side wall from the top 45in down. Brace to suit, and it's a max-flat alignment, so adjust & damp to taste / your own room / system in practice.
2. 48in x 9in x 7in (HxWxD -you can reverse the second two if you want), Zdriver 17in, vent 2in up from the internal base, 3in diameter x 5in long. Stuff 0.485lbs ft^3 from the top 29in down. Alternatively, line the top, back & one side-wall with 1in acoustic fiberglass down to the bottom. This is the QW equavalent of an EBS alignment which will match well to room-gain in practice.
And there's a couple of other similar to each other:- 54H X 18.75w X 14.75D with a 6 inch port/vent with no extension. Or a slightly smaller 50H (same other W and D measurements) but with a 3 inch port/vent.
I like the sound of option 2. But only because I could paint paint it bright magenta/pink/ or purple...and hopefully capture something of the Zu look! I think most of the cabinet sizes came from you Scottmoose. So thanks, you're a audio treasure! What do you reckon would be the best option? An MLTL...
Kind Regards: Dave
Just going to ensure you know the MLTL that Scottmoose put up was for the standard an10. I built the setup for my an10's and its nice. Like Scott stated its designed for a flat arrangement. Your music/audio preference should be the deciding factor in what you build. I personally would try to find a MLTL alignment for your driver and build it. My personal preference is the flat arrangement, as I use these speakers to listen to specific types of music only.
Woops! Thanks for that Allenjr! I'll have to ask Scottmoose to see what wonders he can (again!) produce! Should he be willing....Internet discussion sites can be very demanding.
Any chance Scottmoose for adaptions of your cabinet measurements to suit the Super cast 10inch? (I'll even pay! I can send wine as well....it's grape harvest time over here!...although, fermetation has only just begun!)
The measurements stated above in the 1st option are pretty close to the 5.6 plans anyway that are available from the AN distributer: Commonsense. But the discussion thread has raised my concerns about getting the most from the drivers and whether this is possible from the set plans. Either way, the more options the better the chance of building something terrific. Besides, my BiB with Fostex FE167e turned out to be absolutely fantastic due to your previous work with; Dave, Jeff and Martins contributions with 'Bigger is Better'. So, how could I not trust your/his work once again!?
Kind Regards: dave
Any chance Scottmoose for adaptions of your cabinet measurements to suit the Super cast 10inch? (I'll even pay! I can send wine as well....it's grape harvest time over here!...although, fermetation has only just begun!)
The measurements stated above in the 1st option are pretty close to the 5.6 plans anyway that are available from the AN distributer: Commonsense. But the discussion thread has raised my concerns about getting the most from the drivers and whether this is possible from the set plans. Either way, the more options the better the chance of building something terrific. Besides, my BiB with Fostex FE167e turned out to be absolutely fantastic due to your previous work with; Dave, Jeff and Martins contributions with 'Bigger is Better'. So, how could I not trust your/his work once again!?
Kind Regards: dave
Dave, I admit to being intrigued by the big 15" offerings from Audio Nirvana. I'm currently running the 15" Silver Iris coax with 15" Augie woofers on open baffle. I like them and think they're a good value, but I'd like to try something else for the fun of it.
I've not bothered (yet) to calculate BIB dimensions for either AN 15"er. I'll have to check later and see if all the necessary specs are published for them. If you beat me to it please post your results.
Do you really want to know lads? Using the now standard BIB cab. alignment GM created, the ANS15CF nets ~176ft^3, while the co-ax, with its higher Vas & weaker motor needs (I hope you're feeling brave) about 348ft&^3. As no QC tolerances are stated, you'd probably need to add 10% to both as a safety fudge-factor.
The AN15in drivers mandate big boxes, unless you're willing to compromise. For e.g., a trad., pre T/S alignment BR for either would come out at about 34.75ft^3 (for each channel), assuming vent CSA = Sd.
The AN15in drivers mandate big boxes, unless you're willing to compromise. For e.g., a trad., pre T/S alignment BR for either would come out at about 34.75ft^3 (for each channel), assuming vent CSA = Sd.
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My word! If I calculated these correctly a BIB for either is over 10' tall! I'm not even going to bother looking at the BR boxes.
Scott, thanks for your input.
There's goes the free lunch I was looking for. You know this supports a vague thought I had at the back of my mind concerning these two drivers, they're in large part orphans. The supplier hasn't put any information out concerning their use and as far as I can tell the normal configurations for drivers of this type are so large as to be ridiculous. These things have a huge negative WAF, in fact they've plumbed new depths in that regard.
I really have to wonder what the thinking was behind their development.
If they were more efficient they might be useful in a gym or something, but for domestic use they're worthless.How depressing.
Sheesh, I think I've forgotten how to use the BIB calculator.
When looking at the cast 12" AN FR, I can get the line length which is big at 184.81" or a single fold cabinet of 7.70'. This isn't too bad as I have 9' ceilings.
I also get a z-driver length of 40.10" which puts the driver 52.30" off the floor. Obviously that's too high. I'm not sure how much that could be safely lowered.
But I'm at a loss when it comes to figuring Vb or past that.
Could someone help?
Fs = 36.427 Hz
Qts = 0.488
Qms = 5.902
Qes = 0.531
Vas = 351.933 Ltr
Xmax = 1.0mm
When looking at the cast 12" AN FR, I can get the line length which is big at 184.81" or a single fold cabinet of 7.70'. This isn't too bad as I have 9' ceilings.
I also get a z-driver length of 40.10" which puts the driver 52.30" off the floor. Obviously that's too high. I'm not sure how much that could be safely lowered.
But I'm at a loss when it comes to figuring Vb or past that.
Could someone help?
Fs = 36.427 Hz
Qts = 0.488
Qms = 5.902
Qes = 0.531
Vas = 351.933 Ltr
Xmax = 1.0mm
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Nobody every said you have to tune them to 1/2 wavelength of Fo (Fs). That's generally done, but you can tune them higher if you like for a shorter horn flare length & cabinet height; it just means they'll be wider & deeper for the requisite Vp.
Vp on the ANS12CF? Using the stock alignment ~72.6ft^3, & again, you'll probably need something like a 10% fudge factor added to that for safety as AN / CSA don't state the QC tolerances, which are probably not the tightest. Like the AN15in drivers, the 12s demand big boxes.
Vp on the ANS12CF? Using the stock alignment ~72.6ft^3, & again, you'll probably need something like a 10% fudge factor added to that for safety as AN / CSA don't state the QC tolerances, which are probably not the tightest. Like the AN15in drivers, the 12s demand big boxes.
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