There are literally hundreds of possible configurations for these boards, making the creation of a simple PDF document for all of them impractical. In my opinion, the provided documentation offers sufficient information for basic assembly. However, when troubleshooting issues arise, a deeper understanding of diagnostic processes, digital electronics, and the use of appropriate tools becomes essential. Unless there is a proven faulty component, identified through the correct diagnostic process, most issues will stem from mistakes or misunderstandings in implementation. This is likely why these forums exist to help
Hello,
The power supplies can be configured in a lot of different ways but this is because there are to many boards to chose from and they get updated all the time what will work with the latest board will not work with the one you bought 3 months ago.
If you still use the old lifepo4 board and you run into serious issues you better ditch it and buy something new.It is company policy so to say
We will see where we end up.
Of course with digital there are many things can go wrong. Nobody here talks about taking care of electrostatic discharge destroying parts.
Soldering the ultracaps has been discussed before and one should know there you need the right tool with the right tip. You might get it flowing after heating up to long time but you need a proper joint. Otherwise it will surely malfunction right from the start and degrade into something that will performht worse than the cheapest regulator available.
Greetings Eduard
The power supplies can be configured in a lot of different ways but this is because there are to many boards to chose from and they get updated all the time what will work with the latest board will not work with the one you bought 3 months ago.
If you still use the old lifepo4 board and you run into serious issues you better ditch it and buy something new.It is company policy so to say
We will see where we end up.
Of course with digital there are many things can go wrong. Nobody here talks about taking care of electrostatic discharge destroying parts.
Soldering the ultracaps has been discussed before and one should know there you need the right tool with the right tip. You might get it flowing after heating up to long time but you need a proper joint. Otherwise it will surely malfunction right from the start and degrade into something that will performht worse than the cheapest regulator available.
Greetings Eduard
SC-Pure 22/24 vs. 45/49
The phase of the lower frequency clocks is better, but limited to 176/192 kHz. But how much music is published in anything above 192 kHz…
Will the be any difference in sound quality?
That do you think @iancanada 🙂?
I wish everyone a happy new year 🙂
The phase of the lower frequency clocks is better, but limited to 176/192 kHz. But how much music is published in anything above 192 kHz…
Will the be any difference in sound quality?
That do you think @iancanada 🙂?
I wish everyone a happy new year 🙂
…… agreed but again the manual does say to use 80w or higher to solder those capsHello,
The power supplies can be configured in a lot of different ways but this is because there are to many boards to chose from and they get updated all the time what will work with the latest board will not work with the one you bought 3 months ago.
If you still use the old lifepo4 board and you run into serious issues you better ditch it and buy something new.It is company policy so to say
We will see where we end up.
Of course with digital there are many things can go wrong. Nobody here talks about taking care of electrostatic discharge destroying parts.
Soldering the ultracaps has been discussed before and one should know there you need the right tool with the right tip. You might get it flowing after heating up to long time but you need a proper joint. Otherwise it will surely malfunction right from the start and degrade into something that will performht worse than the cheapest regulator available.
Greetings Eduard
These modules in my view are not for the 100% novice as some electronic understanding and soldering skills are required to succeed
@SimonJ
Thanks for the good idea.
I'll post the tips of project DIY and typical troubleshooting cases to the blog section https://iancanada.ca/blogs/news
If you or other skilled community members has any suggestions or experience sharing or guidance, I can also post there to help others.
Happy New Year to all!
Ian
Thanks for the good idea.
I'll post the tips of project DIY and typical troubleshooting cases to the blog section https://iancanada.ca/blogs/news
If you or other skilled community members has any suggestions or experience sharing or guidance, I can also post there to help others.
Happy New Year to all!
Ian
Hello,
It is mentioned for a reason. WITH the right iron, the right tip and the to be soldered items in a tight grip so you can add some pressure on the tip for the best possible heat transfer the job is almost done.
Some solder is easier to work with. The solder should be given some time to gently cool down to room temperature.
If you are not willing to buy the right tool just look for help.
It is close to stupid spending a fortune on parts and than have them barely working because a soldering tool that was needed for the job seems so expensive.
Just a few years and graphene " based" supercaps will be available for the masses. Not sure if the much bigger energy density will automatically give the audiofools a big leap ahead too.
Maybe it will allow a construction with circuitboard attached to the supercap directly? The French did do the same with their mc preamplifier to get maximum benefit from the caps back then. Smarter than most folks here one should say.
Greetings Eduard
It is mentioned for a reason. WITH the right iron, the right tip and the to be soldered items in a tight grip so you can add some pressure on the tip for the best possible heat transfer the job is almost done.
Some solder is easier to work with. The solder should be given some time to gently cool down to room temperature.
If you are not willing to buy the right tool just look for help.
It is close to stupid spending a fortune on parts and than have them barely working because a soldering tool that was needed for the job seems so expensive.
Just a few years and graphene " based" supercaps will be available for the masses. Not sure if the much bigger energy density will automatically give the audiofools a big leap ahead too.
Maybe it will allow a construction with circuitboard attached to the supercap directly? The French did do the same with their mc preamplifier to get maximum benefit from the caps back then. Smarter than most folks here one should say.
Greetings Eduard
Hi @iancanada , thanks for you fast reply.UcPure is the best power supply so far, that's not a question.
I'm thinking about building a Streamer just for I2S. Nothing more.
Will only 1 UcPure unit be able to power the RPI5+Hdmi PRO+FifoPi Q7?
Thanksss and sorry for the noobie questions..
Hi Folks,
I have a new stupid question.
I will power fifopi with an UCPure mkiii(for now I’m using uccondionnner)but I dont have enough space to put the 2 eaton UCs near the fifopi in the same box.
Distance to fifopi will be about 15/18cm, will that degrade ESR too much or is it ok?
I have the space to put the UCpure module close to fifopi but not the Eaton UCs. (They will be in a box bellow with ac transformers)
Will it be better to have fifopi and ucpure module connected by 4cm wire and ucpure module connected to the eatons uc by 15cm?
Maybe it is really a stupid idea and ucpure and ultracapacitors need to be close?
What will be better in term of SQ and ESR?
Thank you for your help.
Have a good new year’s eve.
I have a new stupid question.
I will power fifopi with an UCPure mkiii(for now I’m using uccondionnner)but I dont have enough space to put the 2 eaton UCs near the fifopi in the same box.
Distance to fifopi will be about 15/18cm, will that degrade ESR too much or is it ok?
I have the space to put the UCpure module close to fifopi but not the Eaton UCs. (They will be in a box bellow with ac transformers)
Will it be better to have fifopi and ucpure module connected by 4cm wire and ucpure module connected to the eatons uc by 15cm?
Maybe it is really a stupid idea and ucpure and ultracapacitors need to be close?
What will be better in term of SQ and ESR?
Thank you for your help.
Have a good new year’s eve.
Hello doorssl,
Of course not.
The Fifopi already needs two different supply voltages.
Greetings,Eduard
Of course not.
The Fifopi already needs two different supply voltages.
Greetings,Eduard
Hello Terry,
I think that the ucpure board should be close to the big caps too.
Theoretically every extra inch of cable will degrade performance.
But it could well be that a solution with physical smaller caps with a much more " state of the art " connection style will outperform long cables / Christmas tree lighting connections and big supercaps.
Greetings,Eduard
I think that the ucpure board should be close to the big caps too.
Theoretically every extra inch of cable will degrade performance.
But it could well be that a solution with physical smaller caps with a much more " state of the art " connection style will outperform long cables / Christmas tree lighting connections and big supercaps.
Greetings,Eduard
The purchase of a good welding station is always profitable,Personally I bought an Ersa station,I had no trouble welding the supercap. to the board.@SimonJ
If you or other skilled community members has any suggestions or experience sharing or guidance, I can also post there to help others.
Happy New Year to all!
Ian
Happy New Year to all 🥳
🥳
Firstly, I would like to thank everyone for all the help you guys provided to build the RPi free DDC. Even though I read the manuals multiple times, for a noob with no previous EE project experience, the lack of actual project experience was a hurdle. If you have done at least one successful project of the same scale reading the manuals have a very different profound understanding that simply does not come without actual experience.
That being said, one thing that would be of great help for some very obvious and popular configurations
1. How to test individual boards and power supply
2. If the observed output of the test is not as specified how to debug some common pitfalls.
For example, I watched Gabster's channel and (re)read the manuals and the only way I know if things are working is by seeing if the DDC is working E2E. It would be good to know how i can debug the power supply and individual boards if needed.
That being said, one thing that would be of great help for some very obvious and popular configurations
1. How to test individual boards and power supply
2. If the observed output of the test is not as specified how to debug some common pitfalls.
For example, I watched Gabster's channel and (re)read the manuals and the only way I know if things are working is by seeing if the DDC is working E2E. It would be good to know how i can debug the power supply and individual boards if needed.
As I did not find the Informations (or did not under stand it):
Would it be a "good" solution to use these DAC (9038 dual mono /OPA861V) direct to Headphones? Or should I use DAC to Preamp to Headphone-Amp.?
I am planning to get some headphones and would like to deceive them balanced from Ians DAC. How to match Impedance for OPA861V stage in this case?
What is the output Impendance anyway of this board?
Best Regards
Branko
Would it be a "good" solution to use these DAC (9038 dual mono /OPA861V) direct to Headphones? Or should I use DAC to Preamp to Headphone-Amp.?
I am planning to get some headphones and would like to deceive them balanced from Ians DAC. How to match Impedance for OPA861V stage in this case?
What is the output Impendance anyway of this board?
Best Regards
Branko
Hello,
You are looking for a dac with a volume control that can be used to supply enough output to drive your headphones?
You are asking to much i think?
You should use search function outside this thread.
Greetings,Eduard
You are looking for a dac with a volume control that can be used to supply enough output to drive your headphones?
You are asking to much i think?
You should use search function outside this thread.
Greetings,Eduard
Hello Terry,@eduard
Thank you for your answer.
I think you’re right.
Maybe I will cut two rectangles in the bottom of my box to seat the ultracapacitors in.
I miss only 4-5mm in height.
You could indeed make two rectangular holes in the bottom and then mount one or two rectangular plates on some M5 threaded standoff about one centimeter height . This way you will protect the caps and you create extra rigidity for the original bottom plate.
If you use one plate about the seize of a small tablet. It should have 3 holes on each of the two longer sides and one line in of 3 holes in between the caps.
Especially if you use M5 and can manage to make the nine holes at the same coordinates in both bottom and additional plate it will create a very rigid construction.
I have used this technique several times.
Use 3 or 4 feet under the original bottom to keep the extra plate from touching your furniture.
Greetings,Eduard
Hi Eduard,
Happy new year.
Yes I will try something like that.
I will design and 3d print some petg enclosure to secure the UCs that will seat in the rectangle bottom hole.
I have enough clearance at the bottom ro seat the plate.
I’m using a streacom fc5. It’s just a pity to cut an expensive case. But with nice black mate petg, in my config, I guess it will be invisible.
Happy new year.
Yes I will try something like that.
I will design and 3d print some petg enclosure to secure the UCs that will seat in the rectangle bottom hole.
I have enough clearance at the bottom ro seat the plate.
I’m using a streacom fc5. It’s just a pity to cut an expensive case. But with nice black mate petg, in my config, I guess it will be invisible.
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