Hi...
More pic's... Sry... cannot resist 😛
So i assembled all pieces today...
Just wanna share.
Jesper.
More pic's... Sry... cannot resist 😛
Thank's!Very nice work, Jesper!
So i assembled all pieces today...
Just wanna share.
Jesper.
Attachments
Nice work Jesper.
Well executed project Rese66.
What would be the minimum listening distance with these speakers?
Thanks.
Well executed project Rese66.
What would be the minimum listening distance with these speakers?
Thanks.
Wow Jesper, they are beautiful.
I hope they can keep up with the great looks in terms of sound. 😱
@a3cervo:
Thank you. I would recommend a distance of at least 2.5 meters. It's about 3.5 meters in my room, which works very well.

I hope they can keep up with the great looks in terms of sound. 😱
@a3cervo:
Thank you. I would recommend a distance of at least 2.5 meters. It's about 3.5 meters in my room, which works very well.
Hey...
Rese
I had a few hour's on them today, and i am still thrilled that i can "walk" away from them and still enjoy fullblown music. - Size does matter, as far as i know one need some volume and cone size to move the air, nomatter what! this i belive cannot be manipulated. Okay with EQ/DSP we can do a lot (i will try it out sometime), but still we cannot trick the fysical law's, can we?
- Most problematic thing here is that not much weissbier is being consumed here (by me) at Covid-19 Denmark present time 🙁
Jesper.
Rese
They do, and as i said before the size does that sound if "full" even at low volumeI hope they can keep up with the great looks in terms of sound.

I had a few hour's on them today, and i am still thrilled that i can "walk" away from them and still enjoy fullblown music. - Size does matter, as far as i know one need some volume and cone size to move the air, nomatter what! this i belive cannot be manipulated. Okay with EQ/DSP we can do a lot (i will try it out sometime), but still we cannot trick the fysical law's, can we?
- Most problematic thing here is that not much weissbier is being consumed here (by me) at Covid-19 Denmark present time 🙁
Jesper.
I am very pleased Jesper. I can definitely confirm your impression.
However, you can never use "too much" and "Weißbier" in one sentence.😱😀
However, you can never use "too much" and "Weißbier" in one sentence.😱😀

I'm applying damping pads at the moment. Mine are 2mm thick but I see others using 4mm. Should I double them up?
My baffle is 36mm of baltic birch. Should I add pads there as well?
Any point in placing them on the bottom of the cabinet?
My baffle is 36mm of baltic birch. Should I add pads there as well?
Any point in placing them on the bottom of the cabinet?
Very nice work in the pics above! I haven't read the whole thread yet but was wondering as the 4367 is front vented, was there a reason to not do the same for the clone?
Which dumping pads do you have exactly?
With the thick front you don't need anything extra, but it doesn't hurt either.
Thanks DaveCan. I wanted a loudspeaker that would still work well when placed close to the back wall without emphasizing the bass too much. This works much better with a closed speaker than with bass reflex. In addition, they also require less volume and the woofers, which are suitable for closed boxes, can be manufactured more cheaply. So this construction has some advantages if you don't just look at the -3dB frequency on paper.😉
With the thick front you don't need anything extra, but it doesn't hurt either.
Thanks DaveCan. I wanted a loudspeaker that would still work well when placed close to the back wall without emphasizing the bass too much. This works much better with a closed speaker than with bass reflex. In addition, they also require less volume and the woofers, which are suitable for closed boxes, can be manufactured more cheaply. So this construction has some advantages if you don't just look at the -3dB frequency on paper.😉
Nice job Jesper!! The olivewood veneer is really sweet looking, love the grain patterens. You mentioned it's felt backed? Like cloth or is that what you call paper backed over there?
Which dumping pads do you have exactly?
With the thick front you don't need anything extra, but it doesn't hurt either.
I'm using this.
Noico Black 80 mil (2 mm) 10 sqft (0.9 sqm) Sound deadening mat - Noico
I went ahead and doubled them up but only had enough for a single layer on the front baffle. About 4.5kg per cabinet. I glued the first layer using flooring adhesive and then 3M 77 spray adhesive to attach the second layer.
With sound deadening, each cabinet weighs about 30kg empty.
Both cabinets are now glued up. My remaining tasks:
- trim side panels flush
- sand/seal
- install denim insulation (after I learn how to effectively cut it. very difficult.)
- final crossover assembly
- install drivers
I need to figure out how I want to connect the woofer to the crossover board that I had planned to mount in the upper chamber.
Attachments
It's a very thin tissue you can see it on the last product picture:
Zebrano Furnierholz Blatt mit Vlies SaRaiFo 250x64cm | online kaufen
@ultrachrome:
One layer is more than I built into my Asathor. So that should be more than enough.😉
Good job so far. I just drilled a hole in the wall, ran the cable through it and sealed everything with a large amount of hot glue.
Zebrano Furnierholz Blatt mit Vlies SaRaiFo 250x64cm | online kaufen
@ultrachrome:
One layer is more than I built into my Asathor. So that should be more than enough.😉
Good job so far. I just drilled a hole in the wall, ran the cable through it and sealed everything with a large amount of hot glue.
How would I know if I need the Zobel network (impedance linearization circuit)?
I am driving these AsaThors with a 45w KT88 amp.
I am very new to this.
thanks,
Joe
I am driving these AsaThors with a 45w KT88 amp.
I am very new to this.
thanks,
Joe
Just to be clear, can I build the zobel circuits and leave them external to the cabinets but connect them at the binding posts?
Thanks,
Joe
Thanks,
Joe
With tube amps, impedance correction should always be included. They can also be connected to the terminals from the outside.
@ joe
yes of course you can attach it externally. With PP loads it's more difficult to figure out if you absolutely need a correction circuit. It will likely be slightly advantageous. Build it, hook it up, ifyou like it move it into the horn cabinet with the rest of the crossover if not recycle it. The correction circuit is mainly for SET or amps that really prefer 8+ ohms, but it all depends how your amp handles 4 ohms. This is basically a 4 ohm speaker, check the first couple of posts to see the graphs, and goes down to 3.something. Do you have 4 and 8 ohm taps on the amp?
Cheers
yes of course you can attach it externally. With PP loads it's more difficult to figure out if you absolutely need a correction circuit. It will likely be slightly advantageous. Build it, hook it up, ifyou like it move it into the horn cabinet with the rest of the crossover if not recycle it. The correction circuit is mainly for SET or amps that really prefer 8+ ohms, but it all depends how your amp handles 4 ohms. This is basically a 4 ohm speaker, check the first couple of posts to see the graphs, and goes down to 3.something. Do you have 4 and 8 ohm taps on the amp?
Cheers
tubeglow,
Yes, the amp has 8 and 4 ohm posts, but like you mentioned, the Asathor
dips to 3.6 or thereabout. So it cannot hurt.
thanks
Joe
Yes, the amp has 8 and 4 ohm posts, but like you mentioned, the Asathor
dips to 3.6 or thereabout. So it cannot hurt.
thanks
Joe
The impedance correction only works in the mid-range and above. Here the impedance fluctuates very strongly, which is not ideal with tubeamps.
With correction it looks like this:
With correction it looks like this:
Attachments
- Home
- Loudspeakers
- Multi-Way
- Asathor - a JBL 4367 Clone