bonzini said:
Hi,
The shape is the way they should be for subchassis compression springs.
I'm not aware that springs get tired, or rubber in decent condition
stops being rubber, I wouldn't replace them with "better" new parts.
Consider adding felt rings top and bottom. Using whatever you coat
the springs with to seat in the rubber, preventing squeaking. Add
washers (tap washers ?) above the adjustment nuts if not there.
You can also damp the hanger bolt with some form of tubing.
🙂/sreten.
Changing the topic ever so slightly.
If I do build the new subchassis to give myself room for the 300+mm tonearm...
... would anyone care to offer any comments on that aspect of this project?
For instance, I don't see a lot of 300mm tonearms on the market, at least not at prices that seem to coincide with a re-built Ariston. ha ha.
I noticed the PU7s at Audio Origami while there earlier today, those look pretty. Anyone here used one of them, willing to comment?
I've also thought about building a carbon fibre arm.
Tube-wise, there seem to be pulltruded and mandel-wrapped tubes. Off hand, the mandel-wrapped tubes seem as though they might be more rigid and therefore perhaps more suitable. There are also tapered tubes which kind of makes sense but the taper is pretty gradual, something like 1cm -> 0.5cm over 1m. I don't know if that would be enough to matter in a 300mm version, that would be something like 1cm -> 0.85cm over 300mm. Plus with a DIY tapered tube, getting alignment in order has to be a more interesting task...
There is also flat and angle carbon fibre plate that I assume could be fabricated into a mounting platform for the cartridge, then bonded to the end of the tube.
Geometry-wise, I assume it would be a good idea to build the mount for the cartridge to try to keep the stylus contact point along the centreline of the arm, to avoid giving the arm a tendency to want to roll on record warps.
The bearing makes me sweat a bit, just thinking about it. A unipivot seems the least daunting, especially given Altmann's experience, but one can find lots of comments about the unsuitability of unipivots on sprung subchassis. Though the Naim Aro seems to have its adherents.
Any and all comments on the carbon fibre arm idea much appreciated!
If I do build the new subchassis to give myself room for the 300+mm tonearm...
... would anyone care to offer any comments on that aspect of this project?
For instance, I don't see a lot of 300mm tonearms on the market, at least not at prices that seem to coincide with a re-built Ariston. ha ha.
I noticed the PU7s at Audio Origami while there earlier today, those look pretty. Anyone here used one of them, willing to comment?
I've also thought about building a carbon fibre arm.
Tube-wise, there seem to be pulltruded and mandel-wrapped tubes. Off hand, the mandel-wrapped tubes seem as though they might be more rigid and therefore perhaps more suitable. There are also tapered tubes which kind of makes sense but the taper is pretty gradual, something like 1cm -> 0.5cm over 1m. I don't know if that would be enough to matter in a 300mm version, that would be something like 1cm -> 0.85cm over 300mm. Plus with a DIY tapered tube, getting alignment in order has to be a more interesting task...
There is also flat and angle carbon fibre plate that I assume could be fabricated into a mounting platform for the cartridge, then bonded to the end of the tube.
Geometry-wise, I assume it would be a good idea to build the mount for the cartridge to try to keep the stylus contact point along the centreline of the arm, to avoid giving the arm a tendency to want to roll on record warps.
The bearing makes me sweat a bit, just thinking about it. A unipivot seems the least daunting, especially given Altmann's experience, but one can find lots of comments about the unsuitability of unipivots on sprung subchassis. Though the Naim Aro seems to have its adherents.
Any and all comments on the carbon fibre arm idea much appreciated!
Hi Sreten;
I greatly appreciate your comments! You force me to question my perception of what I know; do you get paid to teach 🙂
I have this memory fragment that says springs become weaker and less springy the longer they are used. I can't support this so now I wonder...
I think I'm on safer ground with my theory that rubber becomes less rubbery as it gets older, though. Is there a way of restoring it somehow? I've heard of people applying stuff to old drive belts for turntables to "rejuvenate" them.
Thanks for the tip on felt rings; how thick would you expect these to be?
I'm pretty sure all the washers are in place though now that you mention it, that will give me something else to check.
Also for the tip on damping the hanger bolt, presumably one would not want this damping material to interfere with the top rubber grommet sliding up and down. Though I suppose if it were slippery, like say teflon, that would be OK. Heat-shrinkable tubing, maybe?
Thanks again!
I greatly appreciate your comments! You force me to question my perception of what I know; do you get paid to teach 🙂
I have this memory fragment that says springs become weaker and less springy the longer they are used. I can't support this so now I wonder...
I think I'm on safer ground with my theory that rubber becomes less rubbery as it gets older, though. Is there a way of restoring it somehow? I've heard of people applying stuff to old drive belts for turntables to "rejuvenate" them.
Thanks for the tip on felt rings; how thick would you expect these to be?
I'm pretty sure all the washers are in place though now that you mention it, that will give me something else to check.
Also for the tip on damping the hanger bolt, presumably one would not want this damping material to interfere with the top rubber grommet sliding up and down. Though I suppose if it were slippery, like say teflon, that would be OK. Heat-shrinkable tubing, maybe?
Thanks again!
Hi Bozini, the diameter of the Ariston and Linn subplatter are identical but the interface to the platter are different size. The Ariston platter is smaller but can be machined to fit on the Linn subplatter. This is the route I will probably take. So far all the Linn platters on eBay have sold for over 85 pounds plus another 50 pounds for shipping due to the weight and its a pretty expensive chunk of metal. I have platter for the Axis but it's way too light. I am certain you could obtain a good sine wave out of Windows but there are a lot simpler ways to develop good quality sine waves these days. I'm not not sure about using a small audio amplifier to drive the motor. The motor doesn't require that much current but it requires a fair amount of voltage to start up the heavy platter, more than 70VAC rms. That about 197 Vp-p., requiring +/-100VDC rails or about 4900 watts ipp @ 8 ohms(> 600 watt rms @ 8 ohms). I thinks it would be easier with a lower power tube amp.
Boz, large diameter carbon fiber spiral wound kite-spars.
revolution kites use a high quality spiral wound pre-preg available in about a 14mm OD. i have two 28cm sections sat upstairs awaiting the kinematic bearing tonearm experiement to start
revolution kites use a high quality spiral wound pre-preg available in about a 14mm OD. i have two 28cm sections sat upstairs awaiting the kinematic bearing tonearm experiement to start
Fitting the Origin Live dc motor and associated bits does make a huge difference to the performance of the Linn Sondek. I fitted mine years ago well before the review in HFN. When I had my Ariston I fitted it with Linn springs and rubbers. These are available new and genuine on Ebay and are cheap. I paid £13 recently for a spare set. You even get new locknuts. I also fitted a Linn motor to one of my Aristons once. I removed the pulley from the Ariston motor and fitted it to the Linn motor. You need to be careful you don't damage the bearings when doing this. Someone mentioned the hideously expensive Keel subchassis and how rigid it is. I remember reading a review of the Sondek about 25 years ago, maybe more and the reviewer reckoned that if you fixed the armboard to the subchassis with longer screws he could hear the difference as the subchassis/armboard interface was now too rigid! Kind of makes you think doesn't it? Si.
Thanks everyone for the comments.
harwoodspark, you really scare me when you say "one of my Aristons" 😀 I kind of like the idea of getting some nice Linn springs from eBay, as you know the Ariston springs are pretty basic. However, I'd of course like to get ones in decent condition and that I'm less sure about, though I am encouraged by your comment that they are available "new and cheap". Yes, it's true, I've never bought anything off eBay before 😱
I have a general question about Origin Live. I really like the looks of their stuff. However, the "budget" motor kit now is 339 quid and that's a fair stack of dollars. That's without getting into the fancier controller or fancier motor or any of the other wonderful stuff that they sell. Is this crazy? Is this the point where I say, lurk on eBay for a used Linn motor, or DIY with Motors-R-Us, or something like that?
OK I have one other question about Origin Live. Is it churlish of me to say that I find "35% improvement" akin to the Wine Spectator giving last year's Guigal Côte Rotie 91pts? This just seems a little too, well, numerical to me.
I get your point about the Keel. Still, I want to listen, A/B. Maybe I will get the chance one day. However for the price of a fully revved up Sondek I think I might be sorely tempted by a fully revved up VPI HR-X. But maybe that's just my 12" arm bias showing through.
sq225917, kite tubes, now that is interesting. I hadn't spotted those; most of the carbon fibre tube manufacturers I've trolled seem to target remote controlled model builders. I will check these out, for sure.
tkwou, a tube amplifier for driving the motor, now that is exactly what Brinkmann does and apparently it is the best thing since vanilla yoghurt. I commend you for this idea and I await your call for participants in ordering circuit boards!!!! Seriously, as you know, it is difficult in Vancouver to listen to a reasonable representation of the "true high end", which leaves me feeling like a fool soon to be parted from his money.
Summary: I really don't think I can modify my Ariston until it's better than a new Sondek or an HR-X or a Brinkmann Balance. But I do think it might be fun to try to make it audibly better, with a lot of love and a little money. Am I on the right track here?
harwoodspark, you really scare me when you say "one of my Aristons" 😀 I kind of like the idea of getting some nice Linn springs from eBay, as you know the Ariston springs are pretty basic. However, I'd of course like to get ones in decent condition and that I'm less sure about, though I am encouraged by your comment that they are available "new and cheap". Yes, it's true, I've never bought anything off eBay before 😱
I have a general question about Origin Live. I really like the looks of their stuff. However, the "budget" motor kit now is 339 quid and that's a fair stack of dollars. That's without getting into the fancier controller or fancier motor or any of the other wonderful stuff that they sell. Is this crazy? Is this the point where I say, lurk on eBay for a used Linn motor, or DIY with Motors-R-Us, or something like that?
OK I have one other question about Origin Live. Is it churlish of me to say that I find "35% improvement" akin to the Wine Spectator giving last year's Guigal Côte Rotie 91pts? This just seems a little too, well, numerical to me.
I get your point about the Keel. Still, I want to listen, A/B. Maybe I will get the chance one day. However for the price of a fully revved up Sondek I think I might be sorely tempted by a fully revved up VPI HR-X. But maybe that's just my 12" arm bias showing through.
sq225917, kite tubes, now that is interesting. I hadn't spotted those; most of the carbon fibre tube manufacturers I've trolled seem to target remote controlled model builders. I will check these out, for sure.
tkwou, a tube amplifier for driving the motor, now that is exactly what Brinkmann does and apparently it is the best thing since vanilla yoghurt. I commend you for this idea and I await your call for participants in ordering circuit boards!!!! Seriously, as you know, it is difficult in Vancouver to listen to a reasonable representation of the "true high end", which leaves me feeling like a fool soon to be parted from his money.
Summary: I really don't think I can modify my Ariston until it's better than a new Sondek or an HR-X or a Brinkmann Balance. But I do think it might be fun to try to make it audibly better, with a lot of love and a little money. Am I on the right track here?
Hello Bonzini. Don't beat yourself up over this but you'll have to accept that your Ariston will never sound as good as a Linn. The Linn springs will give an improvement as will getting rid of the Ariston motor.If you feel the O/L dc kit is too expensive then fit a Linn motor and maybe a Valhalla. These are easily found on Ebay as well. You'll still have a very nice sounding turntable.By the way, the Linn springs I bought were genuine and were inexpensive.The later ones are black in colour. You may think the O/L kit is expensive and so do I but it does work well and you can always fit it to another deck later on. Just keep all the bits off the original deck so you can refit them. My O/L kit has been on three decks already and still works fine so it's probably not bad value after all!
I bought my Linn Sondek because I was offered it for very little money. It was a large improvement over my Ariston which had the O/L dc kit fitted to it at the time. It didn't take long for me to remove the O/L kit from the Ariston and fit it to the Linn. The difference was quite marked on a deck that was already very good. So now we're already two steps in front of the Ariston. I have been steadily upgrading my Sondek over the last five years with a custom plinth and another subchassis and hub which takes it right up to pre Cirkus level. The guy I bought it from said it was the last subchassis made before the Cirkus was introduced. It does sound excellent, but I feel I have reached the end of our road together as Linn have moved the goalposts again just when I felt audio nirvana was getting close.
Will the Keel be an improvement? I've read many times in the past that the Sondek was made the way it is ( was ) so that the mechanical loop was not ultra rigid. This latest upgrade appears to be totally opposite to Linn's original thinking and I feel it was intended to revive interest in the Sondek, bring it into the 21st century and bolster flagging sales especially as we're seeing a bit of a vinyl revival at the moment.
I think the Keel is damned expensive for a lump of aluminium, cast and machined or whatever and I don't think I'm ever going to be in a position to buy one if I ever wanted one. So I may build my next turntable from scratch and use the O/L dc kit to drive it. Si.
I bought my Linn Sondek because I was offered it for very little money. It was a large improvement over my Ariston which had the O/L dc kit fitted to it at the time. It didn't take long for me to remove the O/L kit from the Ariston and fit it to the Linn. The difference was quite marked on a deck that was already very good. So now we're already two steps in front of the Ariston. I have been steadily upgrading my Sondek over the last five years with a custom plinth and another subchassis and hub which takes it right up to pre Cirkus level. The guy I bought it from said it was the last subchassis made before the Cirkus was introduced. It does sound excellent, but I feel I have reached the end of our road together as Linn have moved the goalposts again just when I felt audio nirvana was getting close.
Will the Keel be an improvement? I've read many times in the past that the Sondek was made the way it is ( was ) so that the mechanical loop was not ultra rigid. This latest upgrade appears to be totally opposite to Linn's original thinking and I feel it was intended to revive interest in the Sondek, bring it into the 21st century and bolster flagging sales especially as we're seeing a bit of a vinyl revival at the moment.
I think the Keel is damned expensive for a lump of aluminium, cast and machined or whatever and I don't think I'm ever going to be in a position to buy one if I ever wanted one. So I may build my next turntable from scratch and use the O/L dc kit to drive it. Si.
My 2p:
keep the ariston motor - and build yourself a DIY armageddon clone instead of forking out for a valhalla, which most seem to say is beaten by the armageddon anyway.
I have bought the LP12 springs and yes they do fit AOK. Some tubing over the bolts does help quite a bit.
I added some damping to the subchassis and I think it helped - others have added damping to the base board and have also reported improvements.
Add the corner braces to strengthen up the frame - or even build a new one from solid timber instead of the veneered chipboard.
Wash out the bearing and refill with EP90 gear oil.
Get a new belt and clean it with white spirit before use.
Important: make yourself a simple frame that will hold the TT by the frame so that you can drop the baseboard and tune up the suspension and the arm lead dressing.
If you are still willing (!) investigate putting the motor in the 7 O'C position ala the funk firm mods. That is one of the things I would like to do.
Fran
keep the ariston motor - and build yourself a DIY armageddon clone instead of forking out for a valhalla, which most seem to say is beaten by the armageddon anyway.
I have bought the LP12 springs and yes they do fit AOK. Some tubing over the bolts does help quite a bit.
I added some damping to the subchassis and I think it helped - others have added damping to the base board and have also reported improvements.
Add the corner braces to strengthen up the frame - or even build a new one from solid timber instead of the veneered chipboard.
Wash out the bearing and refill with EP90 gear oil.
Get a new belt and clean it with white spirit before use.
Important: make yourself a simple frame that will hold the TT by the frame so that you can drop the baseboard and tune up the suspension and the arm lead dressing.
If you are still willing (!) investigate putting the motor in the 7 O'C position ala the funk firm mods. That is one of the things I would like to do.
Fran
The Armageddon option is only suitable if you keep the original motor, which if it is already noisy is ready to be replaced. Mine was so noisy you could hear background noise between tracks and all the time if you used headphones. Putting on an Armageddon won't solve the problem of a noisy motor nor will a Valhalla for that matter. Trying to find a replacement Ariston motor unit is not that easy. Trying to find a North American Ariston motor unit is even harder. Finding a good used Linn motor would be a lot easier. The problem is all Linn motors since the introduction of the Valhalla are designed to work off 50Hz. An Armageddon won't work on a Linn motor in North America because it's basically an isolation transformer with a resistor to reduce the voltage and a capacitor to feed the second leg of the motor. It will output whatever AC frequency you put into it, which in North America is 60Hz and also where Bozini and I both live. Part of the reason Linn changed to the Valhalla was that it outputs 50Hz no matter what voltage you plug it into and therefore only needed one model for world distribution. The Armageddon would be a suitable option if you could rebuild the Ariston motor or remove the Ariston pulley and place it a Linn motor or if your lucky find a good old North American pre-Valhalla motor with the correct pulley. The pulleys are not easy to get off without damaging the motor if you don't have the correct puller and press to put it back on.
Some good points there Fran but I never found the Ariston motor to be on a par with the Linn motor. I did once fit the thrust housing from the Linn motor to the Ariston unit but ended up changing the motor anyway. The Ariston RD11 was the blueprint for the Sondek and the thing that sets them apart are the tighter design tolerances and superior build quality of the Linn.I'm not banging the Linn drum here.I would never have owned one until I was offered one at a price I couldn't refuse!
You're right about the power supply.I only mentioned the Valhalla as prices are coming down on Ebay now and if you want to play for small money here's an opportunity. I should say at this point that both my Aristons only used the basic mains board. There was no way I could afford the Linn power supply at the time as it was terribly expensive. The motor on its own was quite painful! I think if you own a Sondek though that you need all Linn bits on it when you sell it or it won't fetch it's money.That's why I've kept everything I took off mine so it can all go back when I finally sell it .
As for the springs, I'm pretty sure that on my RD11 I used the Ariston rubbers at the bottom of the spring and had no problems. There's no reason why you couldn't fit the Linn bolts as well. They don't ring like those on the Ariston. Si.
You're right about the power supply.I only mentioned the Valhalla as prices are coming down on Ebay now and if you want to play for small money here's an opportunity. I should say at this point that both my Aristons only used the basic mains board. There was no way I could afford the Linn power supply at the time as it was terribly expensive. The motor on its own was quite painful! I think if you own a Sondek though that you need all Linn bits on it when you sell it or it won't fetch it's money.That's why I've kept everything I took off mine so it can all go back when I finally sell it .
As for the springs, I'm pretty sure that on my RD11 I used the Ariston rubbers at the bottom of the spring and had no problems. There's no reason why you couldn't fit the Linn bolts as well. They don't ring like those on the Ariston. Si.
As far as I know, RS sell a replacement motor, premotec is the make, but I don't know the right part number. If you look for synchronous motors you'll find it. About $50 I think.
Yes, that motor spins at 2 different speeds depending on your mains freq. All the companies that made TTs that ran with motors like this simply made 2 different sized pulleys so that their decks could be used anywhere.
Of course buying a linn motor (the linn pulleys are also available) would be a good choice. Its still worthwhile building an armageddon - many users praise it highly, but then thats what search engines are for.
Its just an option thats all,
Fran
Yes, that motor spins at 2 different speeds depending on your mains freq. All the companies that made TTs that ran with motors like this simply made 2 different sized pulleys so that their decks could be used anywhere.
Of course buying a linn motor (the linn pulleys are also available) would be a good choice. Its still worthwhile building an armageddon - many users praise it highly, but then thats what search engines are for.
Its just an option thats all,
Fran
Well I got some work done on my Ariston this weekend. The top plate was machined to fit the Linn subchassis. The Ariston platter was machined to fit on the Linn subplatter. I put it together to see how things fit together. Now I need to get an arm board or else make one. I'd like to try the plexiglass/acrylic which someone else on the forum made.
Attachments
Hi,
regarding motors - the Ariston pulley can be made to fit a new motor ?
Then the DIY armegeddon is an option ?
I've rebuilt motors in past, removing internal vertical bearing and
adding a external vertical thrust plate (Bass plectrum I remember).
I cannot see why Linn springs would be any better ........
Regarding building a new arm, 12" is not a good idea IMO .......
🙂/sreten.
regarding motors - the Ariston pulley can be made to fit a new motor ?
Then the DIY armegeddon is an option ?
I've rebuilt motors in past, removing internal vertical bearing and
adding a external vertical thrust plate (Bass plectrum I remember).
I cannot see why Linn springs would be any better ........
Regarding building a new arm, 12" is not a good idea IMO .......
🙂/sreten.
tkwou said:
Hi tkwou;
Looks good, I see your o-ring record supports are nowhere in evidence 🙂
Your plinth looks interesting; I don't recall you mentioning it. Is it wrapped with something?
May I ask where you had the platter machined, was it in Vancouver somewhere? Were you satisfied with the work done?
With regard to the armboard, black acrylic would look nice. Is there a feeling that acrylic is an improvement on (painted) MDF or some other sort of fibreboard?
Your postings are keeping my spirits up and ready for tackling my own when I get home!
sreten said:
If tkwou's Ariston is anything like mine, the brass pulley actually slips on the motor shaft - by design. I can't remember if this was touted as a speed regulation device or just to facilitate replacing the record while the turntable is running.
I wonder how much this has to do with the differences perceived betweeen early Linns and Aristons?
I think tkwou is using a Linn motor.
My Ariston has an external thrust "plate" - it's a nylon (I think) cup held against the bottom of the motor spindle by a spring pressed against the motor frame.
I need to get home to take some pictures of this old beast for everyone to enjoy!
Sreten, would you be so kind as to elaborate a bit on your reservations related to 12" arms?
I worry a bit about the extra flexibility of the 1/3 longer arm, but then I don't have any carbon fibre tube around to make me worry more / less.
Elsewhere on this forum there is a nice looking carbon fibre arm with a bearing mechanism and mount made from PVC pipe, and a rather attractive "headshell" - a sort of a machined aluminum "tongue" that fits inside the carbon fibre tube on one end, is machined flat on the other, and has a "crossbar" attached on which the cartridge mounts. The crossbar is held to the tongue by one bolt. It looks as though this mechanism is used to align the cartridge. A nice piece of work. It looks a bit like my Grace 707 overall, though the tubing is heftier and the bearing cage is much beefier than the Grace.
I shouldn't post three notes in a row. Oh well.
Taking all of the sage advice into account, I have a kind of step-wise plan for my project. If any of you have any comments at all, I'd love to hear them!
First, I will build a heavy plywood "test plinth". I will mount my existing subchassis and motor directly to this test plinth, as I will drill holes the right size to accomodate this. I will bolt the subplatter to the test plinth. I will mount the test plinth on squash balls as per the wonderful US$11000 VPI HRX.
Second I will build a trial 12" arm from carbon fibre but otherwise not too different from the Altmann. I will mount this on the test plinth, along with the existing Grace 707. I will only listen with headphones to see if I can get a feeling as to whether there is any point in proceeding further with this project.
I may have to spend a while thinking of ways to decouple the noisy Ariston motor from the test plinth to complete the second step.
I may have to experiment with damping the 12" arm.
At this point, I should be able to decide whether or not to proceed with building a better arm and whether or not to spend some more significant cash on a better, quieter, motor.
My feeling is that the Grace, by today's standards, is at best a middle-of-the-road tonearm, and not particularly well-matched to my current Linn Adikt cartridge. Therefore, if the 12" arm is not a significant improvement on it, I'm probably wasting my time and should find something else to do with my life.
Taking all of the sage advice into account, I have a kind of step-wise plan for my project. If any of you have any comments at all, I'd love to hear them!
First, I will build a heavy plywood "test plinth". I will mount my existing subchassis and motor directly to this test plinth, as I will drill holes the right size to accomodate this. I will bolt the subplatter to the test plinth. I will mount the test plinth on squash balls as per the wonderful US$11000 VPI HRX.
Second I will build a trial 12" arm from carbon fibre but otherwise not too different from the Altmann. I will mount this on the test plinth, along with the existing Grace 707. I will only listen with headphones to see if I can get a feeling as to whether there is any point in proceeding further with this project.
I may have to spend a while thinking of ways to decouple the noisy Ariston motor from the test plinth to complete the second step.
I may have to experiment with damping the 12" arm.
At this point, I should be able to decide whether or not to proceed with building a better arm and whether or not to spend some more significant cash on a better, quieter, motor.
My feeling is that the Grace, by today's standards, is at best a middle-of-the-road tonearm, and not particularly well-matched to my current Linn Adikt cartridge. Therefore, if the 12" arm is not a significant improvement on it, I'm probably wasting my time and should find something else to do with my life.
bonzini said:
Hi,
Simply rebuilding something to take a 12" arm, I cannot see the point.
If you cannot build a good 9" arm, making it 3" longer will not help .....
🙂/sreten.
Hi Bozini
The plinth is original Ariston but I refinished it in piano black to give it a more modern look. The platter and top plate machining took less than a hour of shop time. I had it done in North Vancouver. Fits just like a Linn now. The Linn springs are similar to the Ariston's they just have a higher spring rate so the resonant frequency will be a bit higher but I thinks the Linn subchassis and arm board are heavier so this lowers the resonant frequency, so overall there might not be that much change.
The plinth is original Ariston but I refinished it in piano black to give it a more modern look. The platter and top plate machining took less than a hour of shop time. I had it done in North Vancouver. Fits just like a Linn now. The Linn springs are similar to the Ariston's they just have a higher spring rate so the resonant frequency will be a bit higher but I thinks the Linn subchassis and arm board are heavier so this lowers the resonant frequency, so overall there might not be that much change.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.