Try to detach it from the stand as well. While it was bolted to the stand for me, I tried about 10 expensive speaker cables and none of them worked. I was thinking of selling the Aria, and then they told me to separate the stand with a spike and the speaker from the stand. I was moved to tears, she immediately became such a beautiful voice!
Hello!
There must be about 200 hours in the speakers. I noticed a few days ago that the bass sounds are more refined and detailed than ever before. It gives off a completely different sound and to my advantage. I am very glad I found this forum and thank you for your help. I'll be back again around 400 hours.
There must be about 200 hours in the speakers. I noticed a few days ago that the bass sounds are more refined and detailed than ever before. It gives off a completely different sound and to my advantage. I am very glad I found this forum and thank you for your help. I'll be back again around 400 hours.
Cool reading guys, I'm on a biz trip in Poland and I have stopped by at Dariusz Miflexaudio and got myself 2 PCs of KPCU 3.9uf 600V for my B&W speakers that use just a single cap for tweeter , so soon I will test Miflex KPCU 3.9 as main cap with 0.33uf KPCU as bypass along with for now 0.01uf Mundorf Silver Oil ....
These 3.9uf as huge and I will mount them outside the box and solder directly to speaker cables so no binding posts for more direct path.
I'm writing this because if Arias main cap for the tweeter (in line with positive) is just 2.7uf than it maybe smaller and less expensive to even mount on the bottom of the box and connect to Arias crossover ....😉
I will keep you posted once KCPU 3.9 is installed , I have read that it is a definite improvement over Mundorf Supreme.
These 3.9uf as huge and I will mount them outside the box and solder directly to speaker cables so no binding posts for more direct path.
I'm writing this because if Arias main cap for the tweeter (in line with positive) is just 2.7uf than it maybe smaller and less expensive to even mount on the bottom of the box and connect to Arias crossover ....😉
I will keep you posted once KCPU 3.9 is installed , I have read that it is a definite improvement over Mundorf Supreme.
Thanks for all the info on this thread.
Going to try doing a crossover upgrade on my 906's from 2020
Reading through the thread below is my parts list
Not sure if I could get by without the 0.022uF cap on the tweeter.
Please let me know if anything needs to change on the parts list
Tweeter
Jantzen Alumen, Z-Cap 2.20µF 100VDC
MIFLEX KPCU Capacitor, 0.47uF 600Vdc, Copper Foil
MIFLEX KPCU Capacitor, 0.022uF 600Vdc, Copper Foil
Woofer
Jantzen Superior Z-Cap, 5.60µF 800VDC
Mills resistor
Mills Resistor 1R2 Ohm 12W MRA-12 Series
Mills Resistor 4R7 Ohm 12W MRA-12 Series
I do find that some piano notes and female vocals can quite fatiguing (ringing)
Not sure if its related to the cabinet, and if a 2inch dowel as a brace could help
Going to try doing a crossover upgrade on my 906's from 2020
Reading through the thread below is my parts list
Not sure if I could get by without the 0.022uF cap on the tweeter.
Please let me know if anything needs to change on the parts list
Tweeter
Jantzen Alumen, Z-Cap 2.20µF 100VDC
MIFLEX KPCU Capacitor, 0.47uF 600Vdc, Copper Foil
MIFLEX KPCU Capacitor, 0.022uF 600Vdc, Copper Foil
Woofer
Jantzen Superior Z-Cap, 5.60µF 800VDC
Mills resistor
Mills Resistor 1R2 Ohm 12W MRA-12 Series
Mills Resistor 4R7 Ohm 12W MRA-12 Series
I do find that some piano notes and female vocals can quite fatiguing (ringing)
Not sure if its related to the cabinet, and if a 2inch dowel as a brace could help
Cool, I have a 0.22 uf KPCU in the tweeter circuit and it appears to introduce a mild lushness. Cumulative capacitance is roughly factory value of 2.7uf. It’s nice.
I had an interesting observation on cabinet bracing. Speakers have consecutive serial numbers but bracing didn’t match. One speaker had an extra small piece (1.5”x.5”x.5”) at the front and another at the rear both also attached to the side panel.
I went through several bracing iterations. Found dowel front to back killed the sound. Settled on construction adhesive on inside of front panel under tweeter to help dampen the 630hz resonance. In addition a small block of wood (green box in photo) connecting front panel to side panel to further reduce resonance under tweeter. Also construction adhesive on inside of back panel just above the crossover cutout. This one helps reduce the 800 hz resonance.
Good luck!
I had an interesting observation on cabinet bracing. Speakers have consecutive serial numbers but bracing didn’t match. One speaker had an extra small piece (1.5”x.5”x.5”) at the front and another at the rear both also attached to the side panel.
I went through several bracing iterations. Found dowel front to back killed the sound. Settled on construction adhesive on inside of front panel under tweeter to help dampen the 630hz resonance. In addition a small block of wood (green box in photo) connecting front panel to side panel to further reduce resonance under tweeter. Also construction adhesive on inside of back panel just above the crossover cutout. This one helps reduce the 800 hz resonance.
Good luck!
Attachments
Has anyone done anything similar to the bigger Aria's ? I think they are desperately let down by the lack of a biwiring solution. I'm thinking of making new filters for my 948's.
I suspect the 948 crossover will have some of the same parts as the 906. The question is did focal cram all the components onto a single board? If you can share pics it will likely be straight forward to get a partial parts list/ schematic and next steps for biwiring.
I can tell you that aggressive but very detailed tweeter like in Arias should be more lush , warm with wonderful harmonics ....these Miflex caps really make speakers disappear but need hundreds of hours of breakin to sound at their best , usually after few hours they tend to mute the highs and push it to the back of the soundstage , than gradually after about 100hrs highs will come back to the front and get better for next few hundred hours .... So be patient with these .
Thank you very much Mr. Merzlou. Are you the person who's posted several clips of modded 948's on youtube ?
It appears to me these were set up for bi-wiring from the get go, but weren't because of ehm...marketing ?
It appears to me these were set up for bi-wiring from the get go, but weren't because of ehm...marketing ?
OK. I should've said 'allegedly modded' though. The poster claims many things, but offers no details, and doesn't reply to comments on his clips.
I'm grad you posted this though. Upgrading my 948's to bi-wiring has been on my to do list for a long time, and maybe this will motivate me to get started.
I'm grad you posted this though. Upgrading my 948's to bi-wiring has been on my to do list for a long time, and maybe this will motivate me to get started.
Pre-made a board layout for an inexpensive upgrade (a friend asked me to do it)
Board size: 220x160mm
AIR COILS:
2pcs L1 0,39mH 000-1181 Jantzen Air Core Coil AWG17 0,39mH 0.24Ohm OD41/ID25
2pcs L2 0,68mH 000-1305 Jantzen Air Core Coil AWG17 0,68mH 0.33Ohm OD43/ID25
2pcs L3 0,16mH 000-0232 Jantzen Air Core Coil AWG17 0,16mH 0.15Ohm OD37/ID25
2pcs L4 4,00mH 000-0181 Jantzen Air Core Coil AWG17 4mH 0,83Ohm OD65/ID25
CAPACITORS:
2pcs C1 3.3uF ME-3,30T3.450 Mundorf MKP MCap EVO axial 450 VDC 3,3uF D30-L21mm
2pcs C2 75uF Solen PA 75uF 250V Fast Capacitors D44-L60mm
2pcs C3 10uF ME-10T3.450 Mundorf MKP MCap EVO axial 450 VDC 10uF D40-L27mm
2pcs C4 150uF 001-0294 Jantzen Cross Cap MKP 400 VDC 150uF D45-L112mm
RESISTORS:
4pcs R1, R2 0.9 ohm 002-0148 Resistor Jantzen Superes 1% 10W 0,91 Ohm D8,5-L53mm
2pcs R3 0.27 ohm 002-0382 Resistor Jantzen MOX RSS 5% 10W 0,27 Ohm D8,5-L53mm
WIRE CABLES:
6m red 2.5mm sq 006-0052 Jantzen Audio 2.5mm2-13AWG silver plated PTFE wire, red D1,8mm
6m black 2.5mm sq 006-0051 Jantzen Audio 2.5mm2-13AWG silver plated PTFE wire, black D1,8mm
BLADE RECEPTACLES:
4pcs 4.8 2.5mm sq Mundorf Blade Receptacles BLADE8.RBL-4,8G
4pcs 2.8 2.5mm sq Mundorf Blade Receptacles BLADE8.RBL-2,8G
Board size: 220x160mm
AIR COILS:
2pcs L1 0,39mH 000-1181 Jantzen Air Core Coil AWG17 0,39mH 0.24Ohm OD41/ID25
2pcs L2 0,68mH 000-1305 Jantzen Air Core Coil AWG17 0,68mH 0.33Ohm OD43/ID25
2pcs L3 0,16mH 000-0232 Jantzen Air Core Coil AWG17 0,16mH 0.15Ohm OD37/ID25
2pcs L4 4,00mH 000-0181 Jantzen Air Core Coil AWG17 4mH 0,83Ohm OD65/ID25
CAPACITORS:
2pcs C1 3.3uF ME-3,30T3.450 Mundorf MKP MCap EVO axial 450 VDC 3,3uF D30-L21mm
2pcs C2 75uF Solen PA 75uF 250V Fast Capacitors D44-L60mm
2pcs C3 10uF ME-10T3.450 Mundorf MKP MCap EVO axial 450 VDC 10uF D40-L27mm
2pcs C4 150uF 001-0294 Jantzen Cross Cap MKP 400 VDC 150uF D45-L112mm
RESISTORS:
4pcs R1, R2 0.9 ohm 002-0148 Resistor Jantzen Superes 1% 10W 0,91 Ohm D8,5-L53mm
2pcs R3 0.27 ohm 002-0382 Resistor Jantzen MOX RSS 5% 10W 0,27 Ohm D8,5-L53mm
WIRE CABLES:
6m red 2.5mm sq 006-0052 Jantzen Audio 2.5mm2-13AWG silver plated PTFE wire, red D1,8mm
6m black 2.5mm sq 006-0051 Jantzen Audio 2.5mm2-13AWG silver plated PTFE wire, black D1,8mm
BLADE RECEPTACLES:
4pcs 4.8 2.5mm sq Mundorf Blade Receptacles BLADE8.RBL-4,8G
4pcs 2.8 2.5mm sq Mundorf Blade Receptacles BLADE8.RBL-2,8G
Attachments
This is most excellent, thank you. I am going to cut the low/mid-high up for bi-wiring though. Do 2 circuit boards.
Pete
Pete
The 948 upgrade is an interesting thread. You may want to consider upgrading the bindings posts as well. From what I understand, the biggest bang for the buck will be upgrades to the tweeter and mid circuits. For biwiring one could use the existing board/ components for the two bass drivers and a new board for the mid/highs. It’s just a thought given size and cost of upgraded woofer crossover. Yes, new wiring to all drivers.
I've upgraded only the 2 caps to Clarity Cap CSA so far (906). Run for around 30 hours and I'm very pleased. More dynamic, cleaner and 3D sound. The upper mid glare has gone. They retain all the qualities that I love about them. I'm running Naim Nova into NAP200 with Naim A5. The 2 connecting strips between the binding posts and PCB look awful. Will change these for something of quality next. Removing the woofer trims was my only worry, but was easy with plastic car trim tool pushed behind them on a hot day, they popped off undamaged.
