Guys Should I buy this 4200W?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3085657654&category=11073&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBWA%3AIT&rd=1
I have a Digital View Card with VGA in that can do this thing
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3085657654&category=11073&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBWA%3AIT&rd=1
I have a Digital View Card with VGA in that can do this thing
Do you reckon this guy had the same problem with these displays?
http://cgi6.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI...userid=cernitbaby&completed=0&sort=3&since=-1
http://cgi6.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI...userid=cernitbaby&completed=0&sort=3&since=-1
Well, its nice to see that I am not alone here.. Hopefully with our combined futility, err talent we can fix these things. Its been a couple of days since I have been on here so sorry I haven't written chipdoo. Thanks so much for the ribbons. Ill let you guys know how it goes, if I dont go blind first.
I hate ebay. I missed the last 4210 by $10... NObody bids until the last minute..
I hate ebay. I missed the last 4210 by $10... NObody bids until the last minute..
Not sure......
Gabeh,
The guy in Baltimore is a hit or a miss. More likely a miss and I wouldnt recomeend buying from him.
Im not familiar with digitalview, I heard of them, but you would need much more to make the screen work if Im correct (not 100% sure).
The other guy selling the screens suppsosedly has good ones. Ive been in touch with him and he said that they work just fine. I might be bidding myself as Im in need of a screen. The ones I had left over DONT work at all and its from the Baltimore guy.
Though I keep putting this Baltimore guy down cause of my experience with him, I may be driving down there in a few weeks to hand pick them out. Not sure if he would let me dismatle them to see which is good and which isnt, but I may take a ride since i was able to get 2 out of 5 working ones from him. (or should I say 1 good one and 1 90% good lol)
-Chip
Gabeh,
The guy in Baltimore is a hit or a miss. More likely a miss and I wouldnt recomeend buying from him.
Im not familiar with digitalview, I heard of them, but you would need much more to make the screen work if Im correct (not 100% sure).
The other guy selling the screens suppsosedly has good ones. Ive been in touch with him and he said that they work just fine. I might be bidding myself as Im in need of a screen. The ones I had left over DONT work at all and its from the Baltimore guy.
Though I keep putting this Baltimore guy down cause of my experience with him, I may be driving down there in a few weeks to hand pick them out. Not sure if he would let me dismatle them to see which is good and which isnt, but I may take a ride since i was able to get 2 out of 5 working ones from him. (or should I say 1 good one and 1 90% good lol)
-Chip
need more chemicals
I forgot to tell you in the e-mail. I tried removing the epoxy from the aluminum plate with an aray of chemicals I dug out of my barn. I figured the paint/epoxy remover would do the trick. No way in hell. That epoxy is not coming of any way but the hard way. This stuff is more like grout that is found in between tile on counter tops. I guess that would make sense since the whole panel gets pretty warm when in use. And what ever is under that epoxy must get even hotter.
I forgot to tell you in the e-mail. I tried removing the epoxy from the aluminum plate with an aray of chemicals I dug out of my barn. I figured the paint/epoxy remover would do the trick. No way in hell. That epoxy is not coming of any way but the hard way. This stuff is more like grout that is found in between tile on counter tops. I guess that would make sense since the whole panel gets pretty warm when in use. And what ever is under that epoxy must get even hotter.
Sledge hammer??
lol I would like to know whats under there. NEC wont tell me. It has to do with the power as theres a dead short once it pops.
I thought of the same thing as to them covering it becuase of the heat, but why would they cover it if the heat would not be able to dissipitate?
Unless they want to trap the heat and it uses the metal backing and the long strip that goes across all of them acts as a heat sink.
Not sure.
lol I would like to know whats under there. NEC wont tell me. It has to do with the power as theres a dead short once it pops.
I thought of the same thing as to them covering it becuase of the heat, but why would they cover it if the heat would not be able to dissipitate?
Unless they want to trap the heat and it uses the metal backing and the long strip that goes across all of them acts as a heat sink.
Not sure.
The "epoxy" is actually an IC package, just integrated into the ribbon, it is the cheapest way of making the most [mechanically flexible] circuit. It is thermoset plastic on a petroleum based plastic ribbon. Very conventional (as I'm sure most of you buddies would agree?)
gabe
gabe
NEC PDP driver boards
Hi,
If anyone whose bought one of these NEC displays has any extra driver boards they'd be willing to part with (the ones along the side, not the top/bottom), please let me know. I'm looking for a few driver chips.
Just send me a private message with your email address
Thanks,
Andrew
Hi,
If anyone whose bought one of these NEC displays has any extra driver boards they'd be willing to part with (the ones along the side, not the top/bottom), please let me know. I'm looking for a few driver chips.
Just send me a private message with your email address
Thanks,
Andrew
plasma electronics
i have a Philips fd9932 which i am taking apart. i'm taking picture of its internal boards and will post them to a website dedicated to help us find parts and part numbers; as information on plasma displays is next to nonexistent. if anyone would like to send me pictures of their plasma tv electronics, i will post them on my site. A site dedicated to us crazies who think we can fix these things would be beneficial to all of us. -herman(send emails or pics to: fd9932@mac.com) this is a bad pic of the rear glass of my philips fd9932, i dont have any burn holes on my epoxies, too bad the screen is cracked, i wonder if i can salvage a display from that baltimore guy and somehow splice it to my electronics? Those ribbon cables sure do look like it would be quite difficult to work with....
i have a Philips fd9932 which i am taking apart. i'm taking picture of its internal boards and will post them to a website dedicated to help us find parts and part numbers; as information on plasma displays is next to nonexistent. if anyone would like to send me pictures of their plasma tv electronics, i will post them on my site. A site dedicated to us crazies who think we can fix these things would be beneficial to all of us. -herman(send emails or pics to: fd9932@mac.com) this is a bad pic of the rear glass of my philips fd9932, i dont have any burn holes on my epoxies, too bad the screen is cracked, i wonder if i can salvage a display from that baltimore guy and somehow splice it to my electronics? Those ribbon cables sure do look like it would be quite difficult to work with....
absolutely not chinaman. not possible for that interconnection. you would almost certainly need a mounting/interface board for the both, and that would cost up to $1000.
really it isn't like swapping kidneys with people.
really it isn't like swapping kidneys with people.
NEC 4210W with black stripe, then burn smell, safemode
Hi,
I have loved reading this forum. I think I'm a classic example. I know the inside of my 4210W pretty well. I purchased a 4203 from Baltamore. No luck. Anyway I had a black stripe outside of the 4:3 zone. Black bar was on the left of the display from top to bottom. After a few months just watching the tv it powered down, with the smell of burnt electronics. I now belive I should be looking for a blown driver on the tape and perhaps a blown fuse. Are these drivers usually on the left/right or top/bottom row? If they are on the top bottom are they hidden? If they are on the left / right tape, are they replaceable?
Like I said I have a 4203 spare for parts.
Thanks for any insight as to were to look.
KITT-214th
Hi,
I have loved reading this forum. I think I'm a classic example. I know the inside of my 4210W pretty well. I purchased a 4203 from Baltamore. No luck. Anyway I had a black stripe outside of the 4:3 zone. Black bar was on the left of the display from top to bottom. After a few months just watching the tv it powered down, with the smell of burnt electronics. I now belive I should be looking for a blown driver on the tape and perhaps a blown fuse. Are these drivers usually on the left/right or top/bottom row? If they are on the top bottom are they hidden? If they are on the left / right tape, are they replaceable?
Like I said I have a 4203 spare for parts.
Thanks for any insight as to were to look.
KITT-214th
50/50
Well, I hope for the sake of the TV its one of the driver boards as they are replaceable.
If its another chip in the ribbon that connects the PDP, your out of luck 🙁
The driver boards are on the right an left side attached to the back of the screen. Youll see they attach to the screen with ribbon cables.
Check your fuses.
Mine BOTH went bad and the fuses kept on blowing. So I had to replace the boards and everything worked again.
I have my 4210 working for 6 months now and Ill have to knock on wood as its ticking away nicely. The fans are a little loud, but nothing to be upset about.
I think what many people do wrong is not put a surge suppressor on the power and thats whats causing problems.
I guess I was in luck that I got the 2 out of 5 working pretty good.
Im probably going to Baltimore to pick up 2 more screens. I struck a deal with the guy and he's allowing me to hand pick which ever I want.
Ill let you know how it works out, provididng I find time to go.
Shipping is way to expensive considering I live only 3 hours away.
-Chip
P.S. What do you mean "if they are on the left/ right tape"?
Chinaman, post some pics of your set, curious to see the insides.
Well, I hope for the sake of the TV its one of the driver boards as they are replaceable.
If its another chip in the ribbon that connects the PDP, your out of luck 🙁
The driver boards are on the right an left side attached to the back of the screen. Youll see they attach to the screen with ribbon cables.
Check your fuses.
Mine BOTH went bad and the fuses kept on blowing. So I had to replace the boards and everything worked again.
I have my 4210 working for 6 months now and Ill have to knock on wood as its ticking away nicely. The fans are a little loud, but nothing to be upset about.
I think what many people do wrong is not put a surge suppressor on the power and thats whats causing problems.
I guess I was in luck that I got the 2 out of 5 working pretty good.
Im probably going to Baltimore to pick up 2 more screens. I struck a deal with the guy and he's allowing me to hand pick which ever I want.
Ill let you know how it works out, provididng I find time to go.
Shipping is way to expensive considering I live only 3 hours away.
-Chip
P.S. What do you mean "if they are on the left/ right tape"?
Chinaman, post some pics of your set, curious to see the insides.
Specifics
Chip -
I'm so glad to find someone else who's been in the same boat. Anyway, I found a burnt chip on the ribbon along the top row. Just like in the pictures. I tried placing tape over the connectors for the leads. Can you see if I covered the right leads?
You mention fuses blown. I have tested all the fuses on the board with a continuity testor but not removed them. There are two in the power supply. Two white ones on the left and two white ones on the right pdp boards. I was curious witch ones blow?
Are these the boards you said you replaced? (The left and right ones on the pdp with the white fuses?) I have two extra of those on my Baltimore PDP that I know work.
When your system went to safemode was it just a red led or was it left green? (Mine's left green)
----- Below may be my real current problem (just explaining)
Fineally I'll mention that I had a ground short in the upper deck of electronics that I think is my real problem as to why the display goes to safe mode. One of those multi-strand cables between the main logic board and the graphics board (center to right). The top cable was caught in a screw and melted. I've repaired the jumper, bought the two circuit boards it connects with ones e-bay. Sigh so far the main board was worse than the one already in my system. But I have two of the graphics boards on the way.
Chip -
I'm so glad to find someone else who's been in the same boat. Anyway, I found a burnt chip on the ribbon along the top row. Just like in the pictures. I tried placing tape over the connectors for the leads. Can you see if I covered the right leads?
You mention fuses blown. I have tested all the fuses on the board with a continuity testor but not removed them. There are two in the power supply. Two white ones on the left and two white ones on the right pdp boards. I was curious witch ones blow?
Are these the boards you said you replaced? (The left and right ones on the pdp with the white fuses?) I have two extra of those on my Baltimore PDP that I know work.
When your system went to safemode was it just a red led or was it left green? (Mine's left green)
----- Below may be my real current problem (just explaining)
Fineally I'll mention that I had a ground short in the upper deck of electronics that I think is my real problem as to why the display goes to safe mode. One of those multi-strand cables between the main logic board and the graphics board (center to right). The top cable was caught in a screw and melted. I've repaired the jumper, bought the two circuit boards it connects with ones e-bay. Sigh so far the main board was worse than the one already in my system. But I have two of the graphics boards on the way.
Attachments
Wow
Dam, you got alot of issues with that thing . :-/
If you have more then one burn in the ribbon cables, then your going to have more than on black line in the screen.
Yes you covered the correct leads on the blown chip, however, I had cases where I had to actually isolate the 2 chips at the bottom.
If you look at the burned one and the next good one, you will see that they are joined together. One screen I had I used a knife to seperate them, though I had screens where I didnt need to do this.
You checked the right fuses. My fuses that blew were on the back of the PDP on the left and right boards.
Dam, you got alot of issues with that thing . :-/
If you have more then one burn in the ribbon cables, then your going to have more than on black line in the screen.
Yes you covered the correct leads on the blown chip, however, I had cases where I had to actually isolate the 2 chips at the bottom.
If you look at the burned one and the next good one, you will see that they are joined together. One screen I had I used a knife to seperate them, though I had screens where I didnt need to do this.
You checked the right fuses. My fuses that blew were on the back of the PDP on the left and right boards.
I have a philips 42fd9932 with a bad screen, i got it off ebay for an unbelievable $75. Then i went to pick it up. I replaced the outer cracked glass with a regular piece of glass for $11 and grey poster board(to hide the cracked plasma screen). hung it on my wall and it looks great!!! Too bad it doesn't work :-(
I have pictures of the inside of this plasma tv on a temporary site for anyone whos interested at
http://www.homepage.mac.com/fd9932/DSC01481.jpg (case sensitive!) There are about twenty pics
DSC01482.jpg...
DSC01483.jpg..etc to
http://www.homepage.mac.com/fd9932/DSC01499.jpg
These pictures will be available here for about 50 days, then my free trial expires, and the site goes down.
Feel free to use these pics as you wish, you have my permission.
As for somehow splicing a NEC plasma screen to my ribbon cables(to replace my cracked plasma) I don't see why it won't work. Both screens have the same resolution of 852 by 480. So as long as i line up the correct signal to correspond to the appropriate red/blue/green plasma cells, it should work, ....right? After all its just some gas, inside a small cell, that needs just some current, to make it light? Come 'on guys.... some encouragement is in order here. If this works, a lot of borken screens can be replaced with cheap screens..as opposed to buyng a replacement at more than it would cost to purchase a new plasma tv.
Plasma TV $75 plus replacement NEC screen $125(ebay) plus making 852x480 very minute elecrical connections= $200 for a working tv sound to good not to give it a try.
I have pictures of the inside of this plasma tv on a temporary site for anyone whos interested at
http://www.homepage.mac.com/fd9932/DSC01481.jpg (case sensitive!) There are about twenty pics
DSC01482.jpg...
DSC01483.jpg..etc to
http://www.homepage.mac.com/fd9932/DSC01499.jpg
These pictures will be available here for about 50 days, then my free trial expires, and the site goes down.
Feel free to use these pics as you wish, you have my permission.
As for somehow splicing a NEC plasma screen to my ribbon cables(to replace my cracked plasma) I don't see why it won't work. Both screens have the same resolution of 852 by 480. So as long as i line up the correct signal to correspond to the appropriate red/blue/green plasma cells, it should work, ....right? After all its just some gas, inside a small cell, that needs just some current, to make it light? Come 'on guys.... some encouragement is in order here. If this works, a lot of borken screens can be replaced with cheap screens..as opposed to buyng a replacement at more than it would cost to purchase a new plasma tv.
Plasma TV $75 plus replacement NEC screen $125(ebay) plus making 852x480 very minute elecrical connections= $200 for a working tv sound to good not to give it a try.
Chinaman4u:
In regards to your philips 42fd9932 I believe it is next to impossible to do what you are trying to do. You would have to have intimate knowledge of the working electronics of both the NEC pdp and the philips display. You need to find a replacement philips screen. These two displays are not compatible just because they have similar specs. It is not as simple as you seem to think it is, thats why we have been having all of these problems with our NECs and we aren't even connecting parts from different brands. But anyway, best of luck. I just wanted to reply to you since I haven't seen any other replys.
In regards to your philips 42fd9932 I believe it is next to impossible to do what you are trying to do. You would have to have intimate knowledge of the working electronics of both the NEC pdp and the philips display. You need to find a replacement philips screen. These two displays are not compatible just because they have similar specs. It is not as simple as you seem to think it is, thats why we have been having all of these problems with our NECs and we aren't even connecting parts from different brands. But anyway, best of luck. I just wanted to reply to you since I haven't seen any other replys.
I agree Gold.
Chinaman, what you are trying to do is virtually impossible, they werent meant to work with each other.... :-/
Chinaman, what you are trying to do is virtually impossible, they werent meant to work with each other.... :-/
NEC 4210 manual
Hi Chipdoo,
Would you be interested in selling the manual you have? Or even just posting the secret key combination to get into factory mode?
On the PlasmaSync 50MP1, this combination works fine:
Press the keys in the sequential order of [OFF TIMER] [EXIT] [MUTE] [OFF TIMER].
But the 4210W appears to have a different combination. There is an hour counter I'd like to read (or at least my 50MP1 has one). I have a 4210W with very bad burn-in (from showing a static image in a reception area) and I'm trying to see how many hours it took to cause this!
Thanks,
Andrew
Hi Chipdoo,
Would you be interested in selling the manual you have? Or even just posting the secret key combination to get into factory mode?
On the PlasmaSync 50MP1, this combination works fine:
Press the keys in the sequential order of [OFF TIMER] [EXIT] [MUTE] [OFF TIMER].
But the 4210W appears to have a different combination. There is an hour counter I'd like to read (or at least my 50MP1 has one). I have a 4210W with very bad burn-in (from showing a static image in a reception area) and I'm trying to see how many hours it took to cause this!
Thanks,
Andrew
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