ron clarke said:
Ron,
Whyle you're here: I posted the question in the Loadspeakers forum, but any way. Your oppinion on Fe206e in a base reflex enclosure. That's what I'm thinking of building for the my GC that started this thread.
/Greg
Everyone says it cant work. BUT
with some series resistance which will up the Qes which will up the Qts it can work.All you are doing is trading efficency for Qts.If you want to go for BR with the 206 i would go with their design and add some resistance.
I have mine being run in on the TQWT which was designed for the Fe-168e sigma.And am getting excellent bass response , but nothing as good as a horn, I do have my own design for a horn for the 206 and while not as simple as the fostex design , bunches more efficent.Only 1-90 deg,2-180 deg turns.Hyperbolic/exponential with an M=.6,tuned for 50Hz, sound path is 84",,Height 40"x depth 16.25" x width 12.6",driver is 34" from the floor and the driver is at the mouth edge.
If you want the design Greg then drop me an e-mail at roncla at txucom.net.
Naturally the at=@.
ron
with some series resistance which will up the Qes which will up the Qts it can work.All you are doing is trading efficency for Qts.If you want to go for BR with the 206 i would go with their design and add some resistance.
I have mine being run in on the TQWT which was designed for the Fe-168e sigma.And am getting excellent bass response , but nothing as good as a horn, I do have my own design for a horn for the 206 and while not as simple as the fostex design , bunches more efficent.Only 1-90 deg,2-180 deg turns.Hyperbolic/exponential with an M=.6,tuned for 50Hz, sound path is 84",,Height 40"x depth 16.25" x width 12.6",driver is 34" from the floor and the driver is at the mouth edge.
If you want the design Greg then drop me an e-mail at roncla at txucom.net.
Naturally the at=@.
ron
ron clarke said:
Ron,
Thanks a lot. Idon't mind looking into it, but I'm sure the first project will be a BR as I have no experience at all in building speaker cabinets. Maybe I should start with the Fostex box design. How would they sound diferent if no resistor is used. Also I thought if the problem is in the LF roll off is it bad if I compensate for that in the GC (some LF increase with a few dBs). Also how about mounting two drivers in the same box. I read about mounting one of the drivers outside of the box so that it cancels to a degree the distortions.
It's for me to learn more on the subject first, so if you don't feel like going over those things, no preasure.
Guys,
Can you recomend sources for buying Fostex speakers in Canada
Thanks for your input.
/Greg
Wihout series resistance Greg it would sound very "thin".Its not really about cancellation but about loading of the driver and boosting the bottom end.Yea if you havent been involved with horn making its a very involved very detailed, complicated effort.My design has 41 parts per horn.
If it was me and i was planning on keeping the BRs i would look at the Fe-207e as it has a slightly higher Qts and may not even need series resistance. Omega is doing just that with great success.I believe its the TR-1 using the 207 and its a smallish BR tuned to 50Hz.
However i personally would not reccomend the BR with a 206e driver without series resistance.
Hay even Martin is using Lowthers in a TQWT , but has series resistance.
ron
If it was me and i was planning on keeping the BRs i would look at the Fe-207e as it has a slightly higher Qts and may not even need series resistance. Omega is doing just that with great success.I believe its the TR-1 using the 207 and its a smallish BR tuned to 50Hz.
However i personally would not reccomend the BR with a 206e driver without series resistance.
Hay even Martin is using Lowthers in a TQWT , but has series resistance.
ron
What about the "idea" of boosting the base in the poweramp (GC in my case)?
I'll look into the FE207.
I just looked into the US site and can't even see the FE206E.
Thanks again.
I'll look into the FE207.
I just looked into the US site and can't even see the FE206E.
Thanks again.
Then the LF response may not be as fast or have the resolution.I have tried many times to EQ in to a better FR curve and it always sounded artificial and veiled.The higher E drivers are very sensitive to this.When you get to around 96db/watt/meter drivers they are unforgiving.They show up any flaw in the info being sent to them, and turn what was a pleasent experience into not so pleasent.
Look at it this way, take an inefficent driver and EQ in a response curve.Now you have a driver thats doing things it wasent designed to do.If its a very efficent driver it sounds just like an EQed efficent driver.Thats why cabs play such an important role.They change the FR curve by mechanical means which (when well designed) dosent affect the sound as greatly as electronic means.
If someone wants totally natural sound then OB is the way to go, but require a Qts in the .7 or> range to work.
Just my opinion.
ron
Look at it this way, take an inefficent driver and EQ in a response curve.Now you have a driver thats doing things it wasent designed to do.If its a very efficent driver it sounds just like an EQed efficent driver.Thats why cabs play such an important role.They change the FR curve by mechanical means which (when well designed) dosent affect the sound as greatly as electronic means.
If someone wants totally natural sound then OB is the way to go, but require a Qts in the .7 or> range to work.
Just my opinion.
ron
Thanks! That's it for now.
I'll have to find a source for those in Canada.
**** Any suggestions from the canadian guys regarding the source for Fostex in Canada/Toronto? ****
Thanks.
/Greg
I'll have to find a source for those in Canada.
**** Any suggestions from the canadian guys regarding the source for Fostex in Canada/Toronto? ****
Thanks.
/Greg
Greg , if you are dead set on the 206e then let me design a TQWT suited for that driver. It will be marginally more complicated than a BR but more efficent and provide a more correct loading. It wont be a horn but better than a BR.
ron
ron
Gc #5
I picked up the aluminum today for the nect Gc (#5 by the way)
I went to a place in Seattle called Online Metals and picked up my order. Very reasonable priced I think and I saved the shipping evidently!.
I made the semi ultimate schematic, I made the altered schematic from Greggc and now I am going for the minimised layout from Decdun, with the 56 K R , 2 paralel R's valued at 432 K etc...
I will use the golden posts, rca jacks etc
and for one time I will give in and make braided wiring, just for esthetics because I cannot hear the difference myself anyway.
By the end of this week they will be ready!
This time the housing is going to be IT !!!!
Patek Phillipe, Here I come! 😉
I picked up the aluminum today for the nect Gc (#5 by the way)
I went to a place in Seattle called Online Metals and picked up my order. Very reasonable priced I think and I saved the shipping evidently!.
I made the semi ultimate schematic, I made the altered schematic from Greggc and now I am going for the minimised layout from Decdun, with the 56 K R , 2 paralel R's valued at 432 K etc...
I will use the golden posts, rca jacks etc
and for one time I will give in and make braided wiring, just for esthetics because I cannot hear the difference myself anyway.
By the end of this week they will be ready!
This time the housing is going to be IT !!!!
Patek Phillipe, Here I come! 😉
Golden posts, plugs and sockets look nice but don't necessarily sound better of even as good as nickel or rhodium.
Look at the speaker terminals on my Gainclones, the spekaer cable plug makes direct contact with the wire from the chip. This is superior to even the top of the range Cardas binding posts although it may not impress your mates so much!
Is this for internal wiring or speaker cabling? In either case I would say, save the time and effort and use single strands of plain solid core CAT5. 😉
to impress
1) actually this is indeed for bragging, showing off etc....... using gold (plated) from Meniscus audio , very cheap and good looking, but as you mention your connection from chip to jack, this time my design will also have very little wire running back and forth.
2) the braided wire ( i found it on Platenspeler) is for the power etc... not iinside the amp, as I mentionned here, the distance between chip and jacks IN & OUT is going to be extremely short!
Thanks for the advice though!
J-P
and by the way, your website is very thorough!
Nuuk said:
Look at the speaker terminals on my Gainclones, the speaker cable plug makes direct contact with the wire from the chip. This is superior to even the top of the range Cardas binding posts although it may not impress your mates so much!
Is this for internal wiring or speaker cabling? In either case I would say, save the time and effort and use single strands of plain solid core CAT5. 😉
1) actually this is indeed for bragging, showing off etc....... using gold (plated) from Meniscus audio , very cheap and good looking, but as you mention your connection from chip to jack, this time my design will also have very little wire running back and forth.
2) the braided wire ( i found it on Platenspeler) is for the power etc... not iinside the amp, as I mentionned here, the distance between chip and jacks IN & OUT is going to be extremely short!
Thanks for the advice though!
J-P
and by the way, your website is very thorough!
off the record......
it is 02:10 am
I work as an area coordinator for www.cultural.org ( a non profit organisation), I also am a teacher French in a few schools, I run my own translation co called Carpe Translationem, I help a friend out in his bakery one day a week, I work for First and Goal, event staff for the Seahawks during their season, I give private language lessons and I spent a few hours a day here.
I can get away with 4 to 6 hours of sleep a day, on saturday a bit more.
I always work on electronic projects during the night time!
And I have a wife that tells me I take very well care of her.... 😀
J-P😎
Nuuk said:J-P, I just wondered - what time is it in Washington right now and do you ever go to bed?
it is 02:10 am
I work as an area coordinator for www.cultural.org ( a non profit organisation), I also am a teacher French in a few schools, I run my own translation co called Carpe Translationem, I help a friend out in his bakery one day a week, I work for First and Goal, event staff for the Seahawks during their season, I give private language lessons and I spent a few hours a day here.
I can get away with 4 to 6 hours of sleep a day, on saturday a bit more.
I always work on electronic projects during the night time!
And I have a wife that tells me I take very well care of her.... 😀
J-P😎
Bl**dy h*ll! 
Well, if variety is the spice of life, you must be enjoying yours to the full. I don't know if I would ever know where I was meant to be with a schedule like that, never mind keeping a wife happy as well!
Well, if variety is the spice of life, you must be enjoying yours to the full. I don't know if I would ever know where I was meant to be with a schedule like that, never mind keeping a wife happy as well!
ron clarke said:
Ron,
Not really dead set on 206e, just read good things about it and from what I see 207 is it looks good too. I don't know the price of the two. If 207 will be the same in BR as the 206e in the special enclosure and there isn't such a big dif. in price, I'd go with 207 (if I find a supplier). If you have something ready for 206e I don't mind looking at it, but if you have to spend time on it, I don't feel comfortable asking you to do that.
J-P,
My hat's off to you. How do you manage to not forget what's next.
/Greg
The Fe-207e is $86.50 US, the Fe-206e is $84.30 US.Both from Madison Sound.
The only thing i have for the 206e is my horn design and is it ever complicated. As stated there are 41 parts/horn and many have exacting angle cuts.
If it were me and i was going to keep the speakers, i would go for the Fe207e in the fostex recomended DBR.Or even smaller something like the TR-1 Omega.Depends on WAF and the amount of room you have, but i cant see speaker stands in any form or fashion as the stand takes up a given amount of footprint, might as well use the same displaced volume for a cab.One of the advanages of the 207 is it is sheilded, i noticed i have to keep the 206 at least 3 ft away from the TV.
ron
The only thing i have for the 206e is my horn design and is it ever complicated. As stated there are 41 parts/horn and many have exacting angle cuts.
If it were me and i was going to keep the speakers, i would go for the Fe207e in the fostex recomended DBR.Or even smaller something like the TR-1 Omega.Depends on WAF and the amount of room you have, but i cant see speaker stands in any form or fashion as the stand takes up a given amount of footprint, might as well use the same displaced volume for a cab.One of the advanages of the 207 is it is sheilded, i noticed i have to keep the 206 at least 3 ft away from the TV.
ron
ron clarke said:
Ron,
I'll use the FE207E in the recomended enclosure than.
Thanks a lot for your help!
/Greg
again my inexperience
leads me to asking this question.
As a few more lm 3875's are coming my way I was thinking of making the gc just as a power amp without gaincontrol.
Would leaving any sort of pot or stepped attenuator out be OK or should I replace it with some resistor and if so, what value should I use?
(I have made gc's with 25 K, 50 K and 100 K pots so far ......)
J-P
leads me to asking this question.
As a few more lm 3875's are coming my way I was thinking of making the gc just as a power amp without gaincontrol.
Would leaving any sort of pot or stepped attenuator out be OK or should I replace it with some resistor and if so, what value should I use?
(I have made gc's with 25 K, 50 K and 100 K pots so far ......)
J-P
When i made some GCs as a stand alone amp all i did was run a 20K resistor to ground from the input before the voltage divider resistors. Note! this was on the IGC. Works well depending on the quality of your pre.
ron
ron
>>> Would leaving any sort of pot or stepped attenuator out be OK or should I replace it with some resistor and if so, what value should I use?<<<
No pot needed IMO. I'd put a res in ser of the input and a cap to form a very HF filter (1K and 470pF). That will protect the IC from some static when you switch cables also. You still need the 22k (if that's the value you use)res from +in to gnd though.
/Greg
No pot needed IMO. I'd put a res in ser of the input and a cap to form a very HF filter (1K and 470pF). That will protect the IC from some static when you switch cables also. You still need the 22k (if that's the value you use)res from +in to gnd though.
/Greg
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