I tried again
to get some samples...
this is what the email said :
Hi Jean-Pierre,
National would like to thank you very much for your
sample order for the LM3875TF.
Your devices will ship from our warehouse in Singapore as soon as possible.
Typical delivery times are 3-15 days depending on product availability
and mail service for your location/country.
I paid them $8, they used to work with local dealers, but my guess is that they did not want to deal with it anymore....
J-P
to get some samples...
this is what the email said :
Hi Jean-Pierre,
National would like to thank you very much for your
sample order for the LM3875TF.
Your devices will ship from our warehouse in Singapore as soon as possible.
Typical delivery times are 3-15 days depending on product availability
and mail service for your location/country.
I paid them $8, they used to work with local dealers, but my guess is that they did not want to deal with it anymore....
J-P
The only reason i hang in this forum is to see Raka s picture,wow! brains and beauty all in one package.
Just shoehorned the Fe-206e drivers into the TQWT that i made for the 168e sigma.Even not run in i can these are something special with the NIGC.Cant wait to take some time off and build the rear loaded front firing horns for them (my own design).May even install a zobel but am NOT going with a notch or BSC of any type as with the GC i have found them to kill the sound in horns.Funny it dosent seam to affect the responce as much (using filters) with the PP 6BQ5 tube amp.
ron
Just shoehorned the Fe-206e drivers into the TQWT that i made for the 168e sigma.Even not run in i can these are something special with the NIGC.Cant wait to take some time off and build the rear loaded front firing horns for them (my own design).May even install a zobel but am NOT going with a notch or BSC of any type as with the GC i have found them to kill the sound in horns.Funny it dosent seam to affect the responce as much (using filters) with the PP 6BQ5 tube amp.
ron
i am trying to develop
a nicer more industrial design, so far without success but as I spit out the gc's almost twice a week now, I am sure that one of these days one of the ideas will stick and i will come up with something eyecatching.
In the meantime these are pics of # 4 (not #3 as my wife incorrectly marked down #&^$%*^@@$@)
J-P
a nicer more industrial design, so far without success but as I spit out the gc's almost twice a week now, I am sure that one of these days one of the ideas will stick and i will come up with something eyecatching.
In the meantime these are pics of # 4 (not #3 as my wife incorrectly marked down #&^$%*^@@$@)
J-P
Attachments
last one post
I am some kind of a difficult person.
before I get to work on whatever kind of project and it is something I am not familiar with, I try to gather as much info as my brain can handle. you will see what I mean in another posting
J-P
ps the heatsink is from apexjr.com (ofcourse) and I think he still has them, enough for a set up for 25 V , ct 8A, the surface gets warm but still within reasonable. by the way the LM's are TF.
But between the rest (resistors etc) I glued an AOL CD on the rear of the heatsink, so that there is insulation just in case a wire would touch or come loose.
tomorrow I am staining the wood in a birch color and the whole front of the heatsink gets a black hammer coating or a satin black, I am still undecided about that
I am some kind of a difficult person.
before I get to work on whatever kind of project and it is something I am not familiar with, I try to gather as much info as my brain can handle. you will see what I mean in another posting
J-P
ps the heatsink is from apexjr.com (ofcourse) and I think he still has them, enough for a set up for 25 V , ct 8A, the surface gets warm but still within reasonable. by the way the LM's are TF.
But between the rest (resistors etc) I glued an AOL CD on the rear of the heatsink, so that there is insulation just in case a wire would touch or come loose.
tomorrow I am staining the wood in a birch color and the whole front of the heatsink gets a black hammer coating or a satin black, I am still undecided about that
Attachments
these
are some of the books (these only relate to gc's and especially with the LM3875's)
I copied decdun's website into Word, corrected the more than 300 grammatical and other errors, printed and bound them and other interesting designs, schematics as well as tips and tricks. The original datasheet is in one of them as well as info on stepped attenuators, the RJm design as well as the Thor amp.
And actually many more are on my list 'To Do'
you see guys, that is what DIY is for me, I am not an EE, have very trembling hands, a brain that probably looks like swiss cheese, but i like to learn constantly and also try to document (plus hard copy) on how or why things are done a certain way.
I have a collection of these wirebound books for a few Nelson Pass designs (Zenlite, balanced line stage, SOZ) all of which I finished, but also on lcd panels, OHP's speakers buidling such as the J-Low, some other single driver designs etc etc... all with specs and very detailed construction info
are some of the books (these only relate to gc's and especially with the LM3875's)
I copied decdun's website into Word, corrected the more than 300 grammatical and other errors, printed and bound them and other interesting designs, schematics as well as tips and tricks. The original datasheet is in one of them as well as info on stepped attenuators, the RJm design as well as the Thor amp.
And actually many more are on my list 'To Do'
you see guys, that is what DIY is for me, I am not an EE, have very trembling hands, a brain that probably looks like swiss cheese, but i like to learn constantly and also try to document (plus hard copy) on how or why things are done a certain way.
I have a collection of these wirebound books for a few Nelson Pass designs (Zenlite, balanced line stage, SOZ) all of which I finished, but also on lcd panels, OHP's speakers buidling such as the J-Low, some other single driver designs etc etc... all with specs and very detailed construction info
Attachments
Re: these
J-P,
Quite impressive!
You may end up with a ready to publish book on DIY.
/Greg
uvodee said:
J-P,
Quite impressive!
You may end up with a ready to publish book on DIY.
/Greg
Re: funny that you mention it
I work in electronics all day, and I must say that in 24 years of repairing electronics, I have found that Nichicon caps SUCK!
Allow Me to explain. I have replaced many failed caps over the years, but the most failure prone caps I have ever known are Nichicon. Sure you might see other caps fail, but I have several brand new replacement boards here at work that have failed Nichicon caps on them. These boards have not even been installed yet! They have been (during manufacture) installed right along side other brand caps, yet they have already failed. My company (A Major Japanese OEM Automotive Supplier) had used/uses these caps in it's products. As long as They do (And ignore My comments) My job is secure!
Tall Shadow
uvodee said:
I work in electronics all day, and I must say that in 24 years of repairing electronics, I have found that Nichicon caps SUCK!
Allow Me to explain. I have replaced many failed caps over the years, but the most failure prone caps I have ever known are Nichicon. Sure you might see other caps fail, but I have several brand new replacement boards here at work that have failed Nichicon caps on them. These boards have not even been installed yet! They have been (during manufacture) installed right along side other brand caps, yet they have already failed. My company (A Major Japanese OEM Automotive Supplier) had used/uses these caps in it's products. As long as They do (And ignore My comments) My job is secure!
Tall Shadow
does anybody know
how to get the specs from Nipon Chemicon?
i also have retrieved 6 caps from them, 35 V 27000 uF for a few pennies actually
and I want to find out the ESR value.....4
they have markings on them:
SMH 85* 35 v 27000 uF UCC 51T07L 31
J-P
how to get the specs from Nipon Chemicon?
i also have retrieved 6 caps from them, 35 V 27000 uF for a few pennies actually
and I want to find out the ESR value.....4
they have markings on them:
SMH 85* 35 v 27000 uF UCC 51T07L 31
J-P
Re: Re: funny that you mention it
That's interesting reading. Do you suppose these flaws affect their 'upmarket' caps, such as the 'MUSE' range?
Thanks!
Hi,Tall Shadow said:
That's interesting reading. Do you suppose these flaws affect their 'upmarket' caps, such as the 'MUSE' range?
Thanks!
Been using Nichicon caps in my GCs and never had a problem (yet).Although i do like the sound of the Sprague better.
ron
ron
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