A DSD TECH SH-G01L USB Isolator in an attempt to deal with the RF susceptibility of a Topping DX3 Pro +. My favourite IEM - the Hidizs MP145 - causes it to hum loudly and unstably. It appears this particular 4-wire cable is also a wonderful antenna since balling it up or laying a hand on the Topping suppresses the hum.
Recently got a USB isolator with external power supply for my Topping on the bench. Worked great. It's just a D10s, but it makes videos make noise and calls through the 'puter. Overkill for that job.
In this case worked good rather than great. The hum is much reduced but still present. I'm under 2 km from a 6000 watt AM station that also plays havoc with metal detectors and many portable shortwave radios. Interesting problem. If flipping the wall wart AC polarity doesn't work might try an analogue bench supply.
Try a metal housing, and a temporary shield for the cable which is acting as antenna...aluminum backed tape, wire braid, metal pipe, whatever is handy at home / shop.
Considered it but it's impractical as a permanent fix and won't reveal anything I don't already know. The bench supply thought is primarily as a means of probing the issue's root cause.
My 7Hz Timeless cable appears to be a coax twisted pair and doesn't generate hum. Worst case scenario is I'll be posting in this thread about buying a replacement cable the the Hidizs.
My 7Hz Timeless cable appears to be a coax twisted pair and doesn't generate hum. Worst case scenario is I'll be posting in this thread about buying a replacement cable the the Hidizs.
Thanks to the thoughtless mail courier who ran into my truck. I have purchased yet another death trap.
I got the pcbs the other day and Michael Barton had accidently added yet another pcb, a VC distortion. Quickly mailed him and offered me to pay for the extra pcb, but he declined.
Just have to say the BartonMusicalCircuits has made a very satisfied customer, even more happy!
Nice truck.
Up here, rust is the death sentence to all cars and trucks. It begins on the inside and when you see it, it is all over. Yours has surface rust, nice.
Up here, rust is the death sentence to all cars and trucks. It begins on the inside and when you see it, it is all over. Yours has surface rust, nice.
There are plenty of old pre 1960 farm trucks out here in Oklahoma, some still in service. Last week I was looking at a 1959 F500 grain dump with its original 292 Y-block. It was still in service as a grain hauler.
LDR’s for my volume control. I bought a few extra, to make sure I could find 2 sets of 2 LDR’s each with similar specs.
I’m still testing this (tube) amplifier under construction, but so far it seems to work out fine. Nice and easy volume control, no noise or hum.
Regards, Gerrit
I’m still testing this (tube) amplifier under construction, but so far it seems to work out fine. Nice and easy volume control, no noise or hum.
Regards, Gerrit
Ordered a Harley Benton P-bass kit from Thomann in Germany, two days ago and it arrived today. Got a BYO Strata kit I finieshed a few years ago and decided to go for a bass.
A pair of KT 170 power tubes for an Elkit TU 8400.
Changing out KT 77's for a bit more low end for the Decware DFH's
Changing out KT 77's for a bit more low end for the Decware DFH's
Plumber's tape, PTFE
This might seem strange, but I got rid of a rattle in my 25-year-old Paradigm Servo-15 by wrapping the threads on the spikes with plumber's tape.
For the first couple of decades, my home theater was carpeted, so these spikes were damped by the carpet. About four years ago, though, I moved and now my home theater is on hard floors. I noticed the rattling shortly after calibrating the levels on the surround system in the new place. Paradigm support replied within 24 hours, but explained that if the speaker driver was damaged, there's no modern replacement. I almost bought a new subwoofer - considering Rel, JLAudio, or a modern Paradigm - but did a little more investigation and discovered that sitting on the sub was enough to stop the rattling. Since everything inside the cabinet seemed solid, I figured the only possible culprit was the spikes. By the way, even if you use the round feet for the sub, those spikes are still used to connect the feet to the cabinet, so I heard the same rattling after converting from spikes to feet.
Anyway, I removed all four feet, wrapped the threads with PTFE tape, reinstalled the feet, and also placed non-slip furniture pads under the feet. I've since listening to a couple of modern movies (incl. John Wick: Chapter 4) and there is no more rattling. I figure this trip to the hardware store saved me at least $3,000 but only cost $3.
This might seem strange, but I got rid of a rattle in my 25-year-old Paradigm Servo-15 by wrapping the threads on the spikes with plumber's tape.
For the first couple of decades, my home theater was carpeted, so these spikes were damped by the carpet. About four years ago, though, I moved and now my home theater is on hard floors. I noticed the rattling shortly after calibrating the levels on the surround system in the new place. Paradigm support replied within 24 hours, but explained that if the speaker driver was damaged, there's no modern replacement. I almost bought a new subwoofer - considering Rel, JLAudio, or a modern Paradigm - but did a little more investigation and discovered that sitting on the sub was enough to stop the rattling. Since everything inside the cabinet seemed solid, I figured the only possible culprit was the spikes. By the way, even if you use the round feet for the sub, those spikes are still used to connect the feet to the cabinet, so I heard the same rattling after converting from spikes to feet.
Anyway, I removed all four feet, wrapped the threads with PTFE tape, reinstalled the feet, and also placed non-slip furniture pads under the feet. I've since listening to a couple of modern movies (incl. John Wick: Chapter 4) and there is no more rattling. I figure this trip to the hardware store saved me at least $3,000 but only cost $3.
I've seen the KT170s, but only in literature. Frank has one data sheet:
https://frank.pocnet.net/sheets/084/k/KT 170_TungSol.pdf
and this claims 300 Watts from a pair. I only do higher power push pull 😱 Before I try those high end tubes, I want to see a 300W power amp with them. I haven't been able to find a set of operating conditions
from the manufacturer, as originally done by mullart et al.
https://frank.pocnet.net/sheets/084/k/KT 170_TungSol.pdf
and this claims 300 Watts from a pair. I only do higher power push pull 😱 Before I try those high end tubes, I want to see a 300W power amp with them. I haven't been able to find a set of operating conditions
from the manufacturer, as originally done by mullart et al.
I had one of those, coming up on 20 years ago. Interesting spot for the gas tank. Mine could run on propane - big tank in the bed - or gas. Unsure where my mind went when I bought it - I wasnt doing drugs at the time. Took some time to get rid of too.
A coworker asked, before I gave him a ride to the group lunch in it "Can you "lock 'em up"?" Nope...
Does it have anti lock brakes? Android Auto?
Somehow, I don't think so... although a modern drivetrain, with independent rear suspension and disc brakes all around, under that body would be most awesome.
Do you have nine way, ventilated Recaros in that?
Heck, does its AM radio have tubes?
Oh, this week I bought a bunch of stuff for my K-Linn K-LP12.... Keel, Kable, eKos-2... all used, of course! I think I could have bought one of them direct drive jobbies for what I spent on parts...
lp12bits.com
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Got a Shure V15II cartridge with Jico stylus coming in the morning. Not sure what to expect, but since I have 2 tonearms, it seemed like the right thing to do. The cartridge on the other tonearm is AT95SE by LP Gear. Yes, it is fine for the money spent, but I want to branch out.