Personally speaking, after running Microsoft products from DOS 2.0 on up - I would load Win7 Pro on it, or Linux. If you're using it for instrumentation where you depend on it, run something you can count on.
Win 10 has been a nightmare on my bench, no way will I install anything newer from Microsoft. Win 7 Pro was solid.
Win 10 has been a nightmare on my bench, no way will I install anything newer from Microsoft. Win 7 Pro was solid.
My last significant audio-related purchases were a Ugreen HDMI 4x2 matrix thingy with S/PDIF out; it lets me keep playing music from one HDMI device while switching the monitor to another source.
Not what I bought, but bought for me...I thought I'd post this for info.
My bro gave me a lithium ion powered screwdriver for Xmas; the smaller cylindrical kind. I'd always procrastinated on these because they are relatively expensive and I thought they'd struggle to turn some screws due to the apparent size of the motor. I repair many of the family's appliances etc. and removing screws is a pain on some things with many screws.
Well I got a shock at how well the gearing gives them high torque! This thing is really powerful and I've already used it a few times. It barely slows even on tight screws, and in fact twists your hand violently if you're not holding it firmly.
If you're sitting on the fence thinking of buying one, do it! 🙂
My bro gave me a lithium ion powered screwdriver for Xmas; the smaller cylindrical kind. I'd always procrastinated on these because they are relatively expensive and I thought they'd struggle to turn some screws due to the apparent size of the motor. I repair many of the family's appliances etc. and removing screws is a pain on some things with many screws.
Well I got a shock at how well the gearing gives them high torque! This thing is really powerful and I've already used it a few times. It barely slows even on tight screws, and in fact twists your hand violently if you're not holding it firmly.
If you're sitting on the fence thinking of buying one, do it! 🙂
Bought a little wire yesterday too. 500 ft roll of #6. Still got plenty of #2 Al that could be used for the barn sub panel, but the conduit has to go up in the apex of that soffit. I’m sure I don’t want to screw around with 2” up there, or deal with a pull that might send me down off the scissor lift battling with heavy STIFF cable. I still need #6 Cu for the two air co units and the stove, so I’d still be buying a couple 100 ft rolls anyway.
My real mission on that trip was a roll of reinforcing mesh for the concrete walkway to the other building, but while I was spending money I figured I’d start collecting the electrical I need for the next project or two.
My real mission on that trip was a roll of reinforcing mesh for the concrete walkway to the other building, but while I was spending money I figured I’d start collecting the electrical I need for the next project or two.
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Love those simple electrical projects. They can be work, but are pretty straight forward. Relaxing even. Good call on passing on the #2 wire. Not sure I would want Al wire anyway. Lived it a home wired in Al for almost 12 years. Always smelled smoke.
Be careful, make sure someone is with you.
Be careful, make sure someone is with you.
Running that panel may be a month out. At the same time, you can see there are four pendant light fixtures to install up there, yet to be ordered. My builder ran the cables to those before putting up the soffit panels. The center cover piece comes off easy, and I can run EMT up along the purlins, above the I-beams. There are also high bay fixtures in the warehouse area of the shop and in the barn to do. The idea is start gathering everything that requires the scissor lift to do, and rent it for a whole weekend, only after I make sure I have every single piece. Time spent running back to the store can’t be afforded when the clock is ticking on a rental.
I’ve got heavier Al running from the meter base disconnect to both internal main panels. The #2 was for the ground wires (after the main disconnect it’s supposed to go 4 wire). It also enabled the pulls - I ran a single strand through first, then tied the three heavier ones to it then pulled the #2 with a winch. I’ll only want to pull something that needs that much force if both my feet are on the ground, not 9 feet up. Yeah, that leader piece is wasted because now it’s fatigued, but I’ll hang onto them if I need to pull on anything else. Never had a problem with Al for service entrance, as long as the connections are never exposed to weather. Ones up on the poles can have all sorts of problems. But ones on pad mounted trafos, in meter boxes, or the main lugs seem to be fine even after 50 years.
I’ve got heavier Al running from the meter base disconnect to both internal main panels. The #2 was for the ground wires (after the main disconnect it’s supposed to go 4 wire). It also enabled the pulls - I ran a single strand through first, then tied the three heavier ones to it then pulled the #2 with a winch. I’ll only want to pull something that needs that much force if both my feet are on the ground, not 9 feet up. Yeah, that leader piece is wasted because now it’s fatigued, but I’ll hang onto them if I need to pull on anything else. Never had a problem with Al for service entrance, as long as the connections are never exposed to weather. Ones up on the poles can have all sorts of problems. But ones on pad mounted trafos, in meter boxes, or the main lugs seem to be fine even after 50 years.
Sounds like a safe plan.
Everything revolves around the lift rental! I did that on telecom installation and wiring jobs. Access points, wire, horns - everything ready before the lift arrives. Preconfigured and tested every piece of hardware before it goes up. Same for coring concrete and conduit, I let the electricians do that but dovetailed everything with them.
I haven't worked with aluminum wire before. After living with it, no thanks! I'm glad you're using your noggin and being safe.
Everything revolves around the lift rental! I did that on telecom installation and wiring jobs. Access points, wire, horns - everything ready before the lift arrives. Preconfigured and tested every piece of hardware before it goes up. Same for coring concrete and conduit, I let the electricians do that but dovetailed everything with them.
I haven't worked with aluminum wire before. After living with it, no thanks! I'm glad you're using your noggin and being safe.
Depends on the alloy, and heat treatment. Also, there is steel reinforced Aluminum conductor here, a steel cable in the bundle center.
All the distribution wires here are aluminum, up to the meter.
I have been using 35 square mm 3.5 core cable for many years, no problem, except for a few lugs which were not crimped properly.
Cost is the main issue, copper is costly, and more damaged by polluted rain, so Aluminum is the material of choice in India for most work.
Copper is good for house and switch wiring, say up to 5 kW loads, more than that, and outside residences, it is mostly Aluminum.
All the distribution wires here are aluminum, up to the meter.
I have been using 35 square mm 3.5 core cable for many years, no problem, except for a few lugs which were not crimped properly.
Cost is the main issue, copper is costly, and more damaged by polluted rain, so Aluminum is the material of choice in India for most work.
Copper is good for house and switch wiring, say up to 5 kW loads, more than that, and outside residences, it is mostly Aluminum.
Yes, but I am talking about residential and small business wiring. When I had my shop, most benches were fine with 15 ampere service. A couple had two circuits.
Copper. After living with aluminum, gimmie copper any day! I think it was criminal for our government to allow aluminum wiring for residential homes. Poor installation and do it yourself folks equals fires. We had fires all right.
I will pay the extra for copper in my use.
Copper. After living with aluminum, gimmie copper any day! I think it was criminal for our government to allow aluminum wiring for residential homes. Poor installation and do it yourself folks equals fires. We had fires all right.
I will pay the extra for copper in my use.
We had a flat in Delhi, built by a government entity, aluminum wiring.
It was brittle, when I got the furniture made, I had all the interior wires changed to copper, and put best quality switches as well, before we moved in.
The cheaper Al wires go brittle within a short time, then corrode slowly.
The purer alloys are quite durable.
In my plant, up to the distribution boards for the machines, it is Aluminum.
Except for the big 34 kVA machine, all wires to machines from distribution boards are copper.
Lighting circuits are copper.
We use chemical earthing now, old system was to use plates, some of special alloy, as earthing plates, attached with 10 Gauge (British Wire Gauge) galvanized wire to mains.
A small pipe, to add water or brine to the pit was always there.
Plate was in a pit with charcoal and salt.
Test is a 200W filament bulb to glow bright, phase to earth.
It was brittle, when I got the furniture made, I had all the interior wires changed to copper, and put best quality switches as well, before we moved in.
The cheaper Al wires go brittle within a short time, then corrode slowly.
The purer alloys are quite durable.
In my plant, up to the distribution boards for the machines, it is Aluminum.
Except for the big 34 kVA machine, all wires to machines from distribution boards are copper.
Lighting circuits are copper.
We use chemical earthing now, old system was to use plates, some of special alloy, as earthing plates, attached with 10 Gauge (British Wire Gauge) galvanized wire to mains.
A small pipe, to add water or brine to the pit was always there.
Plate was in a pit with charcoal and salt.
Test is a 200W filament bulb to glow bright, phase to earth.
Around here aluminum is harder to get EXCEPT for service entrance cable. I’m sure I could go buy 12-2 Al NM-B at my local electrical supply, but I’d have to pay LIST, which would be higher than Romex-branded copper from Home Depot. And around here you might see a five foot piece of copper used when the meter is literally opposite the main panel on the same outside wall. Longer than that Al is used. They still often cheat and use URD to run into the inside panel, even though thats a no no. RHW rated isn’t any more expensive at HD prices, and that’s legal.
If I was going underground from the meter base to yet still another building or a solar farm, I’d use the rest of the aluminum. It’s paid for, and not a hardship to use if not working overhead.
If I was going underground from the meter base to yet still another building or a solar farm, I’d use the rest of the aluminum. It’s paid for, and not a hardship to use if not working overhead.
When I was a young country kid of about 10, we didn't have scheme electricity and used diesel generators.
The government finally extended the power grid to our town. Being country kids, we were always looking for adventure so 'borrowed' a length of aluminium wire, from a huge roll of wire they were stringing between poles, to make a flying fox. The wire was made from about six or eight strands of aluminium and one central core of steel.
We strung the wire between the roof of a wheat silo and a tall eucalypt tree and tensioned it by six of us all hanging on the end while a seventh secured the wire.
I was the guinea pig test pilot. The pulley we used was liberated from a farm barn and was made from very heavy cast iron, with a makeshift wooden T handle shoved through a chain link attached to the pulley.
I got up to what felt like 50 km/h and made it half way across the gap when the wire snapped. The pulley spun around on the wooden handle and as I hit the ground from 15 metres up with my hands still above my head the pulley cannoned into my skull and there was blood everywhere. This thing weighed about 10 kilos...
Ten year old Stuey vowed he'd never use aluminium wire again. 🤣
The government finally extended the power grid to our town. Being country kids, we were always looking for adventure so 'borrowed' a length of aluminium wire, from a huge roll of wire they were stringing between poles, to make a flying fox. The wire was made from about six or eight strands of aluminium and one central core of steel.
We strung the wire between the roof of a wheat silo and a tall eucalypt tree and tensioned it by six of us all hanging on the end while a seventh secured the wire.
I was the guinea pig test pilot. The pulley we used was liberated from a farm barn and was made from very heavy cast iron, with a makeshift wooden T handle shoved through a chain link attached to the pulley.
I got up to what felt like 50 km/h and made it half way across the gap when the wire snapped. The pulley spun around on the wooden handle and as I hit the ground from 15 metres up with my hands still above my head the pulley cannoned into my skull and there was blood everywhere. This thing weighed about 10 kilos...
Ten year old Stuey vowed he'd never use aluminium wire again. 🤣
Without the steel core, I doubt copper would have fared any better. You needed all steel, preferably stainless for the application. It’s called “wire rope”.
We use dummy loads here, a sand bag would have worked.
You must have been about 25 kilos...that is a very common wire here, no problem for many years, called ACSR, Aluminum Conductor Steel Reinforced.
Maybe the end got loose, and you fell down.
But still, Ouch, and a 15 meter fall is dangerous even without the pulley hitting you.
You must have been about 25 kilos...that is a very common wire here, no problem for many years, called ACSR, Aluminum Conductor Steel Reinforced.
Maybe the end got loose, and you fell down.
But still, Ouch, and a 15 meter fall is dangerous even without the pulley hitting you.
ACSR is only so strong, and tension plus lateral loading can easily be many times the applied “load” in terms of force. 10yo’s often don’t fully understand physics. It might not have been very heavy gauge.
I guess you have to use whatever you can steal (and get away with)….
Speaking of stealing… when I bought that big roll of THHN (along with two rolls of #12, 100 ft of cheap Romex, and 250 ft of 12/3 armorlite…. Not only did she have to unlock the cage she had to take it all up to the register personally while I went and hunted up everything else I came in for. I guess that store gets a lot of wire theft.
I guess you have to use whatever you can steal (and get away with)….
Speaking of stealing… when I bought that big roll of THHN (along with two rolls of #12, 100 ft of cheap Romex, and 250 ft of 12/3 armorlite…. Not only did she have to unlock the cage she had to take it all up to the register personally while I went and hunted up everything else I came in for. I guess that store gets a lot of wire theft.
Bought one of these buck boost modules for testing small devices like LED's. It has various USB input socket types, has adjustable 1-30v output via terminals or USB, and adjustable current limiting between 0-2A. Display shows voltage and current. AU$13 from reliable seller (cheaper from dodgy ones).
I got a 3A capable DC-DC buck converter PCB for 40 Rupees, in is 5-12 DC, pads on it for 1.2/1.8/2.5/3.3/5V, can solder and use whatever you need.
No current setting, but for half a US Dollar, my expectations are not high.
Blew one up (actually somehow damaged it) changing voltage with supply on, now it gives 4.5 on all the pads.
I use a 3v Lithium cell (old motherboard cell) to check LEDs, it is sufficient.
Diode test range on a DMM, and X1 on analog meter also work for me.
No current setting, but for half a US Dollar, my expectations are not high.
Blew one up (actually somehow damaged it) changing voltage with supply on, now it gives 4.5 on all the pads.
I use a 3v Lithium cell (old motherboard cell) to check LEDs, it is sufficient.
Diode test range on a DMM, and X1 on analog meter also work for me.
Yes, fair enough. I should have clarified that it is for high power flashlight LED's, not only to check functionality. It won't give full output, nevertheless. Another of my hobbies!
A also have a couple of other buck boost modules (the common cheap ones which work fine) but liked that this will plug into my Apple phone charger and that it has the gauge. I don't expect it to be very accurate, but a ballpark figure is ok for messing around.
A also have a couple of other buck boost modules (the common cheap ones which work fine) but liked that this will plug into my Apple phone charger and that it has the gauge. I don't expect it to be very accurate, but a ballpark figure is ok for messing around.