This:
Sadly the software Vance uses to do the simulations, LEAP 5.0 is NLA 😕
The 8th edition of the book is out, but only in hardback and was very expensive.
I expect I’ll learn something even without the software!
I also bought a few of those little buck regulator boards and an iPhone “Camera Adapter” , not for a camera, but for the USB port that means I can stream to my outboard DAC without PC based fan noise.
I’ve only tried playing CD and 48KHz but both work with no clicks or pops, so all good so far!
Jeff
Sadly the software Vance uses to do the simulations, LEAP 5.0 is NLA 😕
The 8th edition of the book is out, but only in hardback and was very expensive.
I expect I’ll learn something even without the software!
I also bought a few of those little buck regulator boards and an iPhone “Camera Adapter” , not for a camera, but for the USB port that means I can stream to my outboard DAC without PC based fan noise.
I’ve only tried playing CD and 48KHz but both work with no clicks or pops, so all good so far!
Jeff
Good @Jeffh01 !
I have a 90s old edition in French (full ridden of typo and translation errors 😡) and I have to buy the last one (8th as you said - in English, of course
!).
Oh, I bought this today for a future Tube-Line-Phono-Dac preamplier project to come 😎 :
And these two below, a few times ago - yes : nothing to do with Audio, I must confess 😳 :
T
I have a 90s old edition in French (full ridden of typo and translation errors 😡) and I have to buy the last one (8th as you said - in English, of course
!).Oh, I bought this today for a future Tube-Line-Phono-Dac preamplier project to come 😎 :
And these two below, a few times ago - yes : nothing to do with Audio, I must confess 😳 :
T
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Found this reworked Quad 405-2 on ebay last week for £135 inc shipping and said to be 'working well'.
It has totally original M12565 issue 7 pcbs in the scruffy rack case. (which I will respray in satin black)
Supply voltages are spot on 50v and outputs are within a few millivolts of zero. It measured well - 0.0066% THD at 1Khz and 100watts. (0.0026% on the other channel)
I plan to replace the psu caps with 22000 Kemets, the 120pf ceramic with a polystyrene and all the electrolytics, as well as reduce the gain from 500mv to 1.5v
Basically, the common mods recommended by Keith Snook and BF Ludwig including changing th TL071 for a OPA134.
It needs a larger heatsink as I am using it to drive my superb Magneplanar MG1.6 speakers (4ohms). It got a bit too hot when listening to it today.
It has totally original M12565 issue 7 pcbs in the scruffy rack case. (which I will respray in satin black)
Supply voltages are spot on 50v and outputs are within a few millivolts of zero. It measured well - 0.0066% THD at 1Khz and 100watts. (0.0026% on the other channel)
I plan to replace the psu caps with 22000 Kemets, the 120pf ceramic with a polystyrene and all the electrolytics, as well as reduce the gain from 500mv to 1.5v
Basically, the common mods recommended by Keith Snook and BF Ludwig including changing th TL071 for a OPA134.
It needs a larger heatsink as I am using it to drive my superb Magneplanar MG1.6 speakers (4ohms). It got a bit too hot when listening to it today.
Attachments
Friend connected 12V LED strip to mains, he is getting old.
Fried it. It was single color...
So I bought him a multi-color strip, 5 meters, controller (with remote) and a mains adapter, all in all $4.50.
He is happy, can control the color and flickering.
There is a four wire supply to each LED, can change from white to red to purple etc., and also control brightness and flickering, many of you would have seen the item during the festive season.
The LED strip is adhesive, you can stick it to whatever you like.
Fried it. It was single color...
So I bought him a multi-color strip, 5 meters, controller (with remote) and a mains adapter, all in all $4.50.
He is happy, can control the color and flickering.
There is a four wire supply to each LED, can change from white to red to purple etc., and also control brightness and flickering, many of you would have seen the item during the festive season.
The LED strip is adhesive, you can stick it to whatever you like.
The bang must have scared him! Poor guy.
You know, I often just want something to light without remote controls and certainly not wishing to change colour. Why is it so difficult to find those things?
When I was a kid, I bought some neon lamp assemblies. They were supposed to have the resistor built in. They didn't. Turned the unit on, they blew up. Scared the heck out of me!
You know, I often just want something to light without remote controls and certainly not wishing to change colour. Why is it so difficult to find those things?
When I was a kid, I bought some neon lamp assemblies. They were supposed to have the resistor built in. They didn't. Turned the unit on, they blew up. Scared the heck out of me!
This is what I was talking about, generic net image.
It is a festive light, and can be stuck to walls etc.
The remote is handy for selecting flickering speeds, brightness and color.
The bulbs I read about in LED magazines are a bit confusing, 2700 / 4000 / 6300K (warm white / standard white / cool white) color temperature switching is okay, but multi color is too much for me...
There was a Philips LED multi color bulb which you could place behind the TV, and adjust for viewing comfort, that was about the time the last CRTs were up for sale, now of course CRT are scrap...
It is a festive light, and can be stuck to walls etc.
The remote is handy for selecting flickering speeds, brightness and color.
The bulbs I read about in LED magazines are a bit confusing, 2700 / 4000 / 6300K (warm white / standard white / cool white) color temperature switching is okay, but multi color is too much for me...
There was a Philips LED multi color bulb which you could place behind the TV, and adjust for viewing comfort, that was about the time the last CRTs were up for sale, now of course CRT are scrap...
On these, they somehow remember the settings, so just switch on and off at the wall switch, remote is not needed until you want to change the settings.
The remote should be kept in a fixed place, they are king of easy to lose, they cost 20 cents each, however.
And my friend was an electrical foreman at a chemical plant just outside the city, in charge of instrument maintenance, so he was always checking and repairing cables and sensors.
So for him to do something like this is unusual.
He found the 12V adapter later, he had stored it in a different place.
Old age, living alone without much social interaction, and mild health issues can be terrible.
Anyway, the single color strips are 3 LED + current limiting resistor, and that is repeated all the way on the length, with cutting marks if you need to shorten them.
I don't think it would have made as much noise as a neon lamp (I blew up a neon lamp long back, small firecracker like pop, glass all over the place).
The remote should be kept in a fixed place, they are king of easy to lose, they cost 20 cents each, however.
And my friend was an electrical foreman at a chemical plant just outside the city, in charge of instrument maintenance, so he was always checking and repairing cables and sensors.
So for him to do something like this is unusual.
He found the 12V adapter later, he had stored it in a different place.
Old age, living alone without much social interaction, and mild health issues can be terrible.
Anyway, the single color strips are 3 LED + current limiting resistor, and that is repeated all the way on the length, with cutting marks if you need to shorten them.
I don't think it would have made as much noise as a neon lamp (I blew up a neon lamp long back, small firecracker like pop, glass all over the place).
Use auto bulbs, remove the caps if needed with a big 80-100 W iron, use the glass bulbs, solder to supply wires.
They are a bit more tolerant to vibration and voltage fluctuation, more variety is easily available, and get a few extra for practice if needed.
They are a bit more tolerant to vibration and voltage fluctuation, more variety is easily available, and get a few extra for practice if needed.
Just pulled the trigger on a pair of Mark Audio MAOP Alpair 10.2.
You lot are a bad influence 🤣🤣
You lot are a bad influence 🤣🤣
A trip down to Napa Auto Parts was all it took. 194N bulbs (14V, 270 mA) use the same miniature wedge base envelope and look good to me.
I use LEDs that look like incandescent lamps. The only difference is the drop in heat and lower current draw. All strong positives. I had to find them.
Completely off... A Eureka Mignon Libra Weight-Based Espresso grinder - chrome.
Merry Christmas to me, says wife.... sure... sure.... ;-)
Merry Christmas to me, says wife.... sure... sure.... ;-)
What part of keeping it OEM did you miss?
You don't mess around with a vintage component, don't make it better, make it as it left the factory. If it was junk to begin with, move on.
And the trouble soon began
Leroy Brown, he learned a lesson about messing
With the wife of a jealous man
Did that once.... took them out. Never again.
Although my big Marantz and Sansui receivers do have somewhat lower wattage lamps. The original were a bit too bright.
I confess...
Hi Tony,
Well, I use real vellum for Marantz sets, archival grade. I used to sell them new, so it actually hurts to see what some folks do to them. The lamps retain the original colour balance, but are a touch brighter. You can dim them easily enough. With light bulbs, the colour changes at lower power and the diffusion paper is probably at least yellowed by now. What is stock about that?
I make my own function lamps. No hot spot and they look exactly like the originals.
I wouldn't keep something completely original in this case. The heat distorts the reflector so by not changing to LEDs, you are actually causing harm. So to preserve your Marantz equipment, you really do need to use LEDs (or don't use them- then what is the point of having them??).
For McIntosh glass panels, you absolutely must use incandescent lamps. But the other indicator lamps can use LED assemblies as I do for Marantz function lamps.
So question for you ... if the LED equivalents look the same, and they save damage or repeated disassembly to replace normal lamps, why wouldn't you go that route? Maybe a little more research and you will find something suitable. I bought all kinds of different LEDs before I found ones that do the trick and look like real lamps.
Well, I use real vellum for Marantz sets, archival grade. I used to sell them new, so it actually hurts to see what some folks do to them. The lamps retain the original colour balance, but are a touch brighter. You can dim them easily enough. With light bulbs, the colour changes at lower power and the diffusion paper is probably at least yellowed by now. What is stock about that?
I make my own function lamps. No hot spot and they look exactly like the originals.
I wouldn't keep something completely original in this case. The heat distorts the reflector so by not changing to LEDs, you are actually causing harm. So to preserve your Marantz equipment, you really do need to use LEDs (or don't use them- then what is the point of having them??).
For McIntosh glass panels, you absolutely must use incandescent lamps. But the other indicator lamps can use LED assemblies as I do for Marantz function lamps.
So question for you ... if the LED equivalents look the same, and they save damage or repeated disassembly to replace normal lamps, why wouldn't you go that route? Maybe a little more research and you will find something suitable. I bought all kinds of different LEDs before I found ones that do the trick and look like real lamps.
We also replaced the Marantz vellums....
Why incandescent? Anal Retentiveness I guess. Just like we spent months looking for replacement output transistors for the Sansui G7500 instead of replacing them with something else that would "fit" but just not the "same".
When I go into a rebuild project, I really want it original.... OK, the caps in the power supplies are a bit more modern, ESR and what not, but other than that, I want to KNOW that what went inside is what a bunch of chain smoking Japanese engineers came up with.
I mean, if we want to re-design, we could take a Superscope or Radio Shack receiver and turn it into a good sounding, good looking unit with an NCore 500 wpc output... But, that defeats the purpose.
Well, come to think about it.... perhaps redoing a Superscope receiver, with the pink faceplate, from its original 10wpc into an NCore or Purify unit.. with ethernet, Wifi and HDMI might make sense in its own way.... some of the old units look great but sound like SSSt so might as well repurpose only the cabinet.
Why incandescent? Anal Retentiveness I guess. Just like we spent months looking for replacement output transistors for the Sansui G7500 instead of replacing them with something else that would "fit" but just not the "same".
When I go into a rebuild project, I really want it original.... OK, the caps in the power supplies are a bit more modern, ESR and what not, but other than that, I want to KNOW that what went inside is what a bunch of chain smoking Japanese engineers came up with.
I mean, if we want to re-design, we could take a Superscope or Radio Shack receiver and turn it into a good sounding, good looking unit with an NCore 500 wpc output... But, that defeats the purpose.
Well, come to think about it.... perhaps redoing a Superscope receiver, with the pink faceplate, from its original 10wpc into an NCore or Purify unit.. with ethernet, Wifi and HDMI might make sense in its own way.... some of the old units look great but sound like SSSt so might as well repurpose only the cabinet.
Hi Tony,
Did you use real vellum or paper? Archival vellum is more expensive but has a better look that lasts. Non-archival grades will yellow or go brown over time like the originals.
After speaking to several design engineers over time, they all said they would use modern parts had they been available. They wanted to create the best sound within the design limits they had. Cost factored in, in the case of Marantz they wanted sound quality and reliability. So as long as it looks the same or very close from the outside (display lighting), added reliability and freedom from heat damage is a no brainer.
Replacing the internal amplifier section totally breaks what the unit is. We aren't talking about that.
For outputs, I use modern replacements from authorized distributors. They perform better than the old transistors I used to buy back then, and I can match them. In the multi-output amplifiers, instructions from Marantz (and other knowledgeable manufacturers) was to match the outputs and diff pairs. Drivers too. By locking yourself to the original part number, you can't possibly do as good a job. Back when these were new, I bought tons of output transistors because the parameter spread was so wide, getting matches meant buying lots of transistors. I'll take reliability and performance over using the exact part every single time.
I will improve a circuit slightly as long as I don't have to cut traces or string parts off the board. In this way the spirit and original design is respected and kept. It is still whatever it was from the factory. Just a touch better. The customer gains extra performance and certainly reliability, and the unit is still whatever the faceplate says it is. That is real value for the owner of the equipment. If they request exact replacements, okay. I have an original box of lamps from the factory sitting here. Over the years I have had one or two takers, the great majority prefer the LED replacements. Mind you, I'm not using what you buy on the internet.
Anyway, you can lock yourself to old parts only if that is your thing. I don't believe this results in a better job unless it is a museum display unit. That can be done, but for someone using the equipment, it isn't reasonable.
Did you use real vellum or paper? Archival vellum is more expensive but has a better look that lasts. Non-archival grades will yellow or go brown over time like the originals.
After speaking to several design engineers over time, they all said they would use modern parts had they been available. They wanted to create the best sound within the design limits they had. Cost factored in, in the case of Marantz they wanted sound quality and reliability. So as long as it looks the same or very close from the outside (display lighting), added reliability and freedom from heat damage is a no brainer.
Replacing the internal amplifier section totally breaks what the unit is. We aren't talking about that.
For outputs, I use modern replacements from authorized distributors. They perform better than the old transistors I used to buy back then, and I can match them. In the multi-output amplifiers, instructions from Marantz (and other knowledgeable manufacturers) was to match the outputs and diff pairs. Drivers too. By locking yourself to the original part number, you can't possibly do as good a job. Back when these were new, I bought tons of output transistors because the parameter spread was so wide, getting matches meant buying lots of transistors. I'll take reliability and performance over using the exact part every single time.
I will improve a circuit slightly as long as I don't have to cut traces or string parts off the board. In this way the spirit and original design is respected and kept. It is still whatever it was from the factory. Just a touch better. The customer gains extra performance and certainly reliability, and the unit is still whatever the faceplate says it is. That is real value for the owner of the equipment. If they request exact replacements, okay. I have an original box of lamps from the factory sitting here. Over the years I have had one or two takers, the great majority prefer the LED replacements. Mind you, I'm not using what you buy on the internet.
Anyway, you can lock yourself to old parts only if that is your thing. I don't believe this results in a better job unless it is a museum display unit. That can be done, but for someone using the equipment, it isn't reasonable.
Tony:
I meant remove the metal caps from the bulbs if needed.
The blown glass shells are made, filaments inserted on support wires, bulb closed, then those wires are soldered to (mostly plated brass) metal caps, which are called metal lamp caps.
It is mostly 70-30 solder, so a big iron is needed.
Removing the caps with a soldering tool gives you a glass lamp with wires, use as needed...
It did not occur to me that wedge base lamps come without the cap... in any case there is less variety available, though I do not need much variety for meter lamps.
Long term, heat and the prospect of fading of scale and needle need to be borne in mind, incandescent bulbs have a huge spectrum of emission, only 10% is in the visible range.
So, I would go for diffuse LED lamps, or put some sort of ilter on the incandescent lamps, some kinds of glass and plastic are UV filters, above a certain thickness.
Pink and purple are seen in UV safe safety goggles, for example.
And it seems you thought I meant capacitors...
I meant remove the metal caps from the bulbs if needed.
The blown glass shells are made, filaments inserted on support wires, bulb closed, then those wires are soldered to (mostly plated brass) metal caps, which are called metal lamp caps.
It is mostly 70-30 solder, so a big iron is needed.
Removing the caps with a soldering tool gives you a glass lamp with wires, use as needed...
It did not occur to me that wedge base lamps come without the cap... in any case there is less variety available, though I do not need much variety for meter lamps.
Long term, heat and the prospect of fading of scale and needle need to be borne in mind, incandescent bulbs have a huge spectrum of emission, only 10% is in the visible range.
So, I would go for diffuse LED lamps, or put some sort of ilter on the incandescent lamps, some kinds of glass and plastic are UV filters, above a certain thickness.
Pink and purple are seen in UV safe safety goggles, for example.
And it seems you thought I meant capacitors...
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