......but should have good transient attack and clarity in midbass, which most people are talking about when they talk about bass
Yup! Thats what I think of as accuracy
For the horns, i am choosing Iwata, becaus ei can diy one failry easily and will basically amount to cost of wood and time. Jmlc vs tractric is just a decision. Kohlbreck, the guy who measured the jmlc for lynn, is now listening to another horn. That tells me that the jmlc is not the undisputed end of th eline. Also, i fyou look at the ETF article i linked, while the JMLC and Kulwegen horns measured well, they were not chosen first in terms of sound. Go figure.
'just a dicision'?????? Its driving me loopy 😀 As for someone listening to something else........I wouldn't read that much into it. Going on the general populace of DIYAudio changing 'is just something we do' - sometimes changing up, sometimes down, and sometimes sideways!!!
As for the results/measurements they are interesting but as the competition was of different CD & horn combinations, none of which I'll probably ever own, it goes to prove nothing is, or should be, decided by measurement alone. As you said - Go figure!!
Truth is, we won tknow till we try
Amen brother, amen
That will get you close. Then align the phase.Align the coils.
It goes without saying that to align the voice-coils sounds like the right idea as far as time alignment is concerned, but that is only part of the story. While that approach seems simple enough in the end you have to look at what you have created by doing that. Think about that horn lens or waveguide sticking out in front of a bass driver directly below the waveguide. You have now created a large physical surface that is quite irregular in shape usually on top of the bass driver that the mids and lows are now going to reflect off of. The reflective properties of a waveguide hanging out there like that are going to be a real problem if you look at this as a reflective surface and not just as two completely disconnected devices. You won't have problem with the high frequency response as it is unaffected but you surly will with the lower frequency dispersion. If things were only simple things could be done so easy. In today's active electronic arena it would seem that it would actually be smarter to use a simple time delay to align the two acoustical centers rather than to physically move the waveguide forward to align the voicecoils which could be anywhere from a few inches on a short waveguide to almost a couple of feet with a long horn.
Thanks guys
How would one go about ascertaining the phase difference?
That all makes sense. So with the CD behind the mid/woof, how do you go about ascertaining the delay needed to time align the drivers? I assume (again!) that you time align the CD to the mid/bass - don't know why, I just do 🙄
That will get you close. Then align the phase.
How would one go about ascertaining the phase difference?
In today's active electronic arena it would seem that it would actually be smarter to use a simple time delay to align the two acoustical centers rather than to physically move the waveguide......
That all makes sense. So with the CD behind the mid/woof, how do you go about ascertaining the delay needed to time align the drivers? I assume (again!) that you time align the CD to the mid/bass - don't know why, I just do 🙄
How would one go about ascertaining the phase difference?
when you begin to feel uncomfortable and like getting sick
For phase you just have to measure. HOLMImpulse is a handy way to do that.
But you do want to know what the phase of your particular acoustic roll-off should be.
You can do the same looking at the impulse.
But you do want to know what the phase of your particular acoustic roll-off should be.
You can do the same looking at the impulse.
Here is an example of how I do it with HOLMImpulse.
Let's suppose that you've built a crossover where the acoustic slopes (important, acoustic!) end up as 4th order Bessel at 800 Hz. What would the response, phase and impulse of an ideal Bessel 4th order look like? You can see them in the graph below.
You will notice that LP impulse peak lags the HP peak by 20cm. If your drivers don't measure like that, they are out of alignment/phase. On this graph the impulse is in dB mode, otherwise you'd hardly see the LP peak.
When I first started doing this I made the mistake of trying the line up the LP and HP impulses. Phase was never right doing that. One day it occurred to me to see what an ideal filter would look like - and that's what you see below. Of course real speakers are rarely that ideal, so you have to fudge, tweak and use your judgment. It's not all that difficult.
Let's suppose that you've built a crossover where the acoustic slopes (important, acoustic!) end up as 4th order Bessel at 800 Hz. What would the response, phase and impulse of an ideal Bessel 4th order look like? You can see them in the graph below.
You will notice that LP impulse peak lags the HP peak by 20cm. If your drivers don't measure like that, they are out of alignment/phase. On this graph the impulse is in dB mode, otherwise you'd hardly see the LP peak.
When I first started doing this I made the mistake of trying the line up the LP and HP impulses. Phase was never right doing that. One day it occurred to me to see what an ideal filter would look like - and that's what you see below. Of course real speakers are rarely that ideal, so you have to fudge, tweak and use your judgment. It's not all that difficult.
Attachments
thanks Pano.
So i'll need a mic and HOLMImpulse.
My crossover understanding is limited as I've only used 1st order.
I know that 1st order = 6db/octave - phase unchanged? 2nd order = 12db/octave - phase 180º? 3rd order = 18db/octave - no idea! 4th order = 24db/octave - no idea! I understand low-pass, band-pass & high pass.
I've also been reading up on active vs passive & the 3rd way - PLLXO
Pano, you mention 'acoustic slopes (important, acoustic!)'. Dumb question I'm sure, but why do you highlight acoustic slope?
tnx for the help
So i'll need a mic and HOLMImpulse.
My crossover understanding is limited as I've only used 1st order.
I know that 1st order = 6db/octave - phase unchanged? 2nd order = 12db/octave - phase 180º? 3rd order = 18db/octave - no idea! 4th order = 24db/octave - no idea! I understand low-pass, band-pass & high pass.
I've also been reading up on active vs passive & the 3rd way - PLLXO
Pano, you mention 'acoustic slopes (important, acoustic!)'. Dumb question I'm sure, but why do you highlight acoustic slope?
tnx for the help
My crossover understanding is limited as I've only used 1st order.
unfortunately passive xo and compression drivers are like oil and water 😱
I fear you will get into trouble with that, and see no other way for you than going active
A penny for your thoughts ....
impedance interfere with passive xo, and changes its function and resulting response, phase etc
and compression driver/horn combo is even worse, with multiple impedance ressonance peak
active is at least free of those speaker impedance issues
still have to deal with acoustic response tho
I guess those problems might have made the CD's bad reputation of sounding very harsh much worse than it deserves
and no doubt it will sound unbareably harsh if the xo is not functioning properly
on the good side, I don't think you need any fancy amplification for a CD
probably a simple low power chip amp will do fine, and be very simple
the remaining other drivers might still work with relatively simple passive xo
tnx tinitus.
So the passive crossover is passive in both directions - subject to the drivers impedance anomalies - just because it is designed to give the correct crossover freq. & slope , it may not due to the driver attached.
An active crossover is essentially line level (before amplifier) and not subject to driver feedback, stamping its exact filter upon the signal before amplification with no speaker level interaction.
This should also be true of a PLLXO?
So the passive crossover is passive in both directions - subject to the drivers impedance anomalies - just because it is designed to give the correct crossover freq. & slope , it may not due to the driver attached.
An active crossover is essentially line level (before amplifier) and not subject to driver feedback, stamping its exact filter upon the signal before amplification with no speaker level interaction.
This should also be true of a PLLXO?
tnx tinitus.
So the passive crossover is passive in both directions - subject to the drivers impedance anomalies - just because it is designed to give the correct crossover freq. & slope , it may not due to the driver attached.
An active crossover is essentially line level (before amplifier) and not subject to driver feedback, stamping its exact filter upon the signal before amplification with no speaker level interaction.
This should also be true of a PLLXO?
Yep, this is the case AFAICT. I've tried both PLLXO and active via mini-DSP and it's much better than passive speaker-level Xover, at least at my design skill level. 🙂
IG
at least at my design skill level. 🙂
which is no doubt many levels above mine!!
Little update on my project. Decided to get some Altec 416's. Got them used for a good price. Also got some Altec 288 compression drivers. That leaves just the horn profile. I will begin my build in a couple of weeks, so hope to have some more extensive impressions soon

Altec all the way buzzforb?
The 288 is a 1.4 incher if I remember correctly. I read (http://alteclansingunofficial.nlenet.net/publications/techletters/TL_231.pdf) that the 288 starts really dropping of around 15k.
Response graph shows big drop. Are you going to prop it up with a s/tweeter or EQ the hell out of it?
be interested to see you construction of the iwata!
The 288 is a 1.4 incher if I remember correctly. I read (http://alteclansingunofficial.nlenet.net/publications/techletters/TL_231.pdf) that the 288 starts really dropping of around 15k.
Response graph shows big drop. Are you going to prop it up with a s/tweeter or EQ the hell out of it?
be interested to see you construction of the iwata!
Depends. I will probably allow for super tweet or small horn in design. May not need it. Prefer as little EQ as possible, but will do what is necessary. Here is my thread if you want to drop in. Ill stop polluting yours. Hurry up and get something. Its a build off!
Be forewarned. Lots of screwing around😀
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/221111-horn-tl-combo-7.html#post3211568
Be forewarned. Lots of screwing around😀
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/221111-horn-tl-combo-7.html#post3211568
I don't try to force my Altec 288s much past 6K. I use bullet tweeters above that. They go out to about 17K-18K.
I have had success with the 288 up to 10k with a super taking over from there. Wait are we still talking buzzforb's stuff here?
Someone should call a moderator for all this OT stuff. 🙂
Someone should call a moderator for all this OT stuff. 🙂
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