I'd just brace it well with whateverz. I have used 2x4s, old door frames, closet pole, etc.
Be careful with screwing thru. Each screw is a conduit for sound.
Be careful with screwing thru. Each screw is a conduit for sound.
Ah ok so glueing is the only other option then
Doesn't sound transmit thru the various sheets once glued together?
Doesn't sound transmit thru the various sheets once glued together?
Sure. But the damping helps.
The way it was explained to me is that each different material cause the sound to change speed (as the speed of sound is different in different materials.) That change requires energy. So each change means an energy loss. Not sure how accurate that is, but there you go.
I suppose if I were building a constrained layer wall with ply/rubber/ply I'd just use a wooden block spacer or two between the layers for structure. The edges have to be joined anyway. You can go crazy on projects like this.
The way it was explained to me is that each different material cause the sound to change speed (as the speed of sound is different in different materials.) That change requires energy. So each change means an energy loss. Not sure how accurate that is, but there you go.
I suppose if I were building a constrained layer wall with ply/rubber/ply I'd just use a wooden block spacer or two between the layers for structure. The edges have to be joined anyway. You can go crazy on projects like this.
Maybe a wooden strip or two in between larger rubber slabs.
But wouldn't that be no better than screwing thru the OSB & rubber into the outer case?
But wouldn't that be no better than screwing thru the OSB & rubber into the outer case?
That stuffs ridiculously expensive here equiv. $232 for a box of 12 ;😱
So is quietglue pro
Any alternatives?
how about BB external, the rubber, then OSB with 1mm deep slots routed into it for a matrix (or similar) bracing design to pin the layers together?
So is quietglue pro
Any alternatives?
how about BB external, the rubber, then OSB with 1mm deep slots routed into it for a matrix (or similar) bracing design to pin the layers together?
How about just a couple of wooden blocks, or maybe just one? If the panels aren't huge, then tying together at the edges is probably enough.
Given the choice.....
CLD or,
Crazy bracing or,
Adding mass via sand loading etc or,
A mix
CLD or,
Crazy bracing or,
Adding mass via sand loading etc or,
A mix
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Sand filled walls are CLD, to my way of thinking.
I don't really have an answer on one vs the other. The most neutral cabinets I've heard have been done with minimal bracing but very dense walls. Some people prefer a lot of bracing. Both seem to work.
I don't really have an answer on one vs the other. The most neutral cabinets I've heard have been done with minimal bracing but very dense walls. Some people prefer a lot of bracing. Both seem to work.
There are adhesives applied with a caulking gun. Use the construction ones designed for underlayment or stair treads. The remain a bit flexible even after they set.
Please keep in mind that DIYers usually spend too much time and energy on trying to deaden a cabinet rather than things that are more important (crossovers etc).
I used latex caulking between two layers of foam core on a tractrix horn and it really reduced distortion due to vibrations. I got same results with underlayment liquid nails.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/259293-prv-5mr450-ndy-fast-applications-13.html#post4036324
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/259293-prv-5mr450-ndy-fast-applications-13.html#post4036324
CLD
I remember a thread in which Dr. Geddes recommended melamine glue as a cheaper but very effective alternative to green glue.
I remember a thread in which Dr. Geddes recommended melamine glue as a cheaper but very effective alternative to green glue.
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It's a type of damping but it's not CLD. CLD requires continuous attachment throughout the mating surfaces so that shear strain can be transmitted.
OK. Would you consider something like the rubber mats CLD if they are not glued across both their surfaces?
plans please
Hello, I'm very interested in building these, any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
Hello, I'm very interested in building these, any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
The driver is Faital HF104, an annular ring driver, memebrane manufactured in in Ketone, Faitals propriety polymer, reputedly made out of equal parts green cryptonite, catshair and turkish yoghurt, flare is also Faital, their smallest tractrix, STH 100.
Measurements are somewhere around here, i´ll look and post.
Aim, thou, was to walk a bit further, 2x8" is about the same area as one 12" which i originally designed the RLK horn for, driver in designprocess was Beyma 12P80Nd but has since changed to Beyma Liberty8, the magical recreation of JBL L120, just better in all respects but one, higher build quality, lower Fs, lower Qts, lower sensitivity thou, only102dB.
This driver in the RLK horn is the speaker most true to music i´ve ever heard, dynamics, low or high level is utterly stupefying, mind You, i´m partial here, i designed it, but it´s not a comercial design, drawings are free for anyone who wants them.
Ingvar
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