Analysis of speaker cables

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To test if your system (and you) are sensitive to this effect, do a simpe test:
1. wire both speakers to one amp channel using #12awg zip.
2. With both speakers close to you, not loud, listen and visualize the sound image in front of you. It should all be exactly in the center...all frequencies, all sounds.
3. Take one of the zips, and split the two conductors away from each other, making the conductor spacing at least two inches apart.
4. Repeat listening of the image.

If the image is still totally centered such that none of the content seems to have drifted from other part of the content, then you have absolutely no cable Z/imaging/settling stuff to worry about. go back to normal wires and spend money on some good wine.

If however, the soundstage image is somehow different, lopsided, whatever, that is an AHA moment.

Both cables should be the same length. If both cables are also the same construction then the image should be centred regardless it seems to me?
 
Why should any sane person take a chance on report coming from an internet stranger's subjective listening impression?
And why should he or she ?
Let anybody decide for himself to do some testing or let it be.

I belong to the ones who think to hear differences.
But I will be the last trying to convince other people.
It’s just for my own satisfaction.

Hans
 
Both cables should be the same length. If both cables are also the same construction then the image should be centred regardless it seems to me?
Absolutely right on both counts.
The first thing checked is the identical response of both speakers. If they are driven from the same amp channel and the image totality is not centered, fix that first, do not proceed until that is done.

The test is... by splitting one cable so that the conductors are far apart, the RFZ is raised significantly, and that is being checked w/r to imaging. It is a simple test.

Edit: I note that maybe ten years ago I setup a system outdoors, speakers 40 feet apart, eminence delta 12's and selenium D205TI's with bog standard crossover comps, and noted the sweet spot in mono was very very tight despite my lack of component matching. So I suspect most will find the image in mono with identical cables to be good as well.

A better test would be running four parallel pairs to each speaker, and then splitting all the conductors to one speaker, but that requires a lot of wire. Best to start simple.

If no difference is detected, move on..glass of Sauvignon blanc...

Jn

PS.. this test design is also useful for tests of bi-wiring..
 
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Never heard of them. Have heard of the parent company Ritter though.

I've not bought speaker cable since 1992 but checking and 2x2.5mm LSZH is around £4 a metre. I don't NEED LSZH but if I am buying new I go for that.

We spec'd and purchased about 25 million dollars of LSZH for the initial machine build. Also radiation resistant and tray rated/UL listed.(oh, and ER rated due to the drop to the equipment).

The vendors we used have gained experience with this stuff, and I suspect at least for LSZH wire, the NEC is a bit closer to adopting that class of wire.

I will admit, the LSZH jackets for multiconductor is very stiff, and if you bend it and then touch it with a single edge razor, it snaps. There is a way to go before it's ready for prime time. I do not think this material can survive a minimum bend radius of 5 or 8 diameters (wire Gauge dependent). But, that may also be a function of radiation resistance. Who knows.

Jn
 
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And when I ask him about what kind of test setup it is, he won't answer.

Reason could be that you're constantly asking these question, but are avoiding direct answers if asked similar questions ....

And, even if someone answered your questions it seems that you nevertheless will be asking the same questions in other threads ad infinitum.

And, beside asking these question you have only provided an opinion paper by Peter Aczel but no relevant literature about planning and execution of good sensory tests.
All together gives the impression that it is more about a religious like propaganda mission than about searching for the truth .....
 
That’s completely my opinion.
I think that almost everybody can hear differences.
But that does not automatically mean that they perceive the difference as an improvement.
It is something between your ears to make that decision.

I’m glad we are all different.

Hans
 
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I wholeheartedly agree.
It's our hobby and pleasure. We can do as we please.
We certainly can do as we please with our own audio money and time. Who tried to stop you from doing that?
Reason could be that you're constantly asking these question, but are avoiding direct answers if asked similar questions ....

And, even if someone answered your questions it seems that you nevertheless will be asking the same questions in other threads ad infinitum.

And, beside asking these question you have only provided an opinion paper by Peter Aczel but no relevant literature about planning and execution of good sensory tests.
All together gives the impression that it is more about a religious like propaganda mission than about searching for the truth .....
Could be maybe if you can admit that it's only an impression of yours.
 
You made a good impression...:D

I actually made a 4 ohm cable using 6 15 foot lengths of cat5e, drove a non inductive 4 ohm resistor in liquid helium using a tigersaurus 250. Because the load was non inductive, the amp remained quite stable. But I fear that if I drove a speaker with that cable, the amp would take issue with the capacitance. That is why a Zobel at the load will help. But most people don't want to try and match a high capacitance cable with a Zobel, everybody just wants plug and play..

jn
 
A difference does not mean better. The vast majority of cables that sound different is they are adding more distortion than a length of 16 gauge zip cord. 35 cents a foot or so. No oxygen free, microcrystal, unidirectional, skin effect, magic BS needed unless you want to just throw money in the air. If you have it surplus, the food banks sure could use some help now.

Cheap zip does not corrode much. 30 or 40 years or so. The clear insulation, like original monster and many "speaker cables" will outgas and corrode in only a few years but it is only under the insulation, so should have no effect on the function. Just really ugly. You can just go to someplace like a Belden supplier and buy 2 conductor bonded tin over copper if you think that is a problem.
 
As mentioned, I have bog standard cables approaching 45 years old, I see no issues. Even the discoloration under the clear insulation. It will give issues if I have to re-terminate as the copper chloride is a pain to solder to. However, If I worry about microdiodes, well ya can't have microdiodes, now can ya??:eek:

But I could not take a chance when absolute reliability is required and ya have a quarter million miles of conductors built in.

jn
 
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