An illustrated guide to building an F5

Member
Joined 2005
Paid Member
So the board was working properly before the PS change. Now the board doesn't work when connected to the new PS, and the board is getting correct voltages from the PS.

Please measure the voltages across the following resistors: R3, R4, R5, R6, R7, R8, R17, R18
All values are DCV

R3: -0.079

R4: -0.007

R5: 0.002

R6: 0.0

R7: 0.0

R8: 0.0

R17: -0.003

R18: -0.219

I don't think this patient has a pulse. The first time I turned the F5 on with the new mono PSUs and the amp boards attached I got music out of both channels but the sound was poor. So I rebiased the right channel but had no luck biasing the left channel which is its current state. The amp boards were previously biased for the basic F5 build I decided to move to the dual mono build. I don't think in my various testing since then that I caused a voltage shock to the left channel, unless I did it that first time.
 
Member
Joined 2012
Paid Member
Looking at your numbers:

- voltage too low at R4 - bad 2SJ74, replace.

- voltage too low at R17 - bad ZTX550, replace.

-voltage at R18 low - may also be bad, so replace ZTX450.

Once that is done, be sure that the trimmer pots are at their initial powerup position, power up with a DBT, and check if the bias adjustment works and the mosfets turn on.

The channel was likely damaged when you first powered up with the new power supplies. The sound would not have been poor if everything was working properly at that time.
 
Member
Joined 2005
Paid Member
Ben,

Thanks for the analysis. I will get right to rectifying this.

Lessons learned, use a DBT even when you don't think you need to.

And when I port my F6 over to dual mono, reset the pots to bias both amp boards once PSU's are stable.

I see the ZTX 450/550 are sold out worldwide. I can try ordering from eBay, but if anyone has two spare units, I would appreciate it and happy to trade parts or cover the costs.
 
Member
Joined 2005
Paid Member
This is why I'm not a brain surgeon....

No wonder the 2SJ74 wasn't working....one of the three legs was broken. Too much rough handling on my part. I tested it and it still works.

What if I just swap that out for a new one before I make the other swaps? I'm confident I caused that breakage before I first turned on the PSU for that amp board. Would that broken JFET make it unlikely that any other parts got damaged?
 
Member
Joined 2012
Paid Member
If you were able to test 2SJ74, perhaps you can solder a lead on the broken leg and re-install it on the board.

The ZTX550 is on the opposite side of the circuit (2SK170 side) so I don't think it was affected by the 2SJ74. It most likely still needs replacement.

So if you can repair the 2SJ74, re-install it and power up and see if it works, and re-measure the voltages.
 
Member
Joined 2005
Paid Member
Update on my Duo-Mono Conversion of my F5.

With lots of help, I'm listening to it right now. Sounds punchier, but that could just be my biased listening. Time will tell. No, I think it is driving my Magnepan 1.7i's deeper now.

This was a great build project. Thanks again to DamonB over in the F6 thread who showed me the way.

And thanks to everyone with the help and support.
 

Attachments

  • F5 Duo Mono Conversion Completed.png
    F5 Duo Mono Conversion Completed.png
    353.8 KB · Views: 93
  • Alive and Working.png
    Alive and Working.png
    484.5 KB · Views: 89
  • Like
Reactions: 2 users
Member
Joined 2005
Paid Member
Hi, I have some questions regarding, NTC 4.7K thermistors
1. Do the value have to be accurate, eg, 1% vs 10% tolerance? or will 5K work?
2. Do they have to touch the power MOSFET very tightly, if yes, should I use eyelet type and bolt it to the heatsink crew?
I'm building new F5 boards and I'm having a heck of a time finding the NTC 4.7K thermistors. All I come up with are SMD parts. I've searched this thread and the only reference is this posting. What am I missing?

Thanks