Hi Cinco,
From a visual inspection the relay grounds appear separate to the audio grounds. I shall have more time to look at it on Wednesday and Thursday. It does seem odd that the issue wasn't there before it was put in the case.
Where did you find the picture of the input module? I tried a web search using the part number on the board but nothing useful came up. (Edit: I just did another search which did produce results. I must have mistyped)
Many thanks for your help with this.
From a visual inspection the relay grounds appear separate to the audio grounds. I shall have more time to look at it on Wednesday and Thursday. It does seem odd that the issue wasn't there before it was put in the case.
Where did you find the picture of the input module? I tried a web search using the part number on the board but nothing useful came up. (Edit: I just did another search which did produce results. I must have mistyped)
Many thanks for your help with this.
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Ah... maybe the stand-offs for the power input module and/or the relay pot module are creating a ground loop? Could unscrew one or the other to verify. Use nylon hardware to isolate if needed.
You're welcome for the help. Just hoping it resolves.
The standoffs for power module are insulated but the relay board ones aren't. The mounting pads for the relay boards appear to be isolated from the rest of the circuit but I'll lift the board off of its mounting to see if that makes a difference.
How's the weather where you are. Texas weather made it on to BBC radio news this morning. Snow and freezing temperatures it said.
How's the weather where you are. Texas weather made it on to BBC radio news this morning. Snow and freezing temperatures it said.
It's 3°F (-16°C) in Dallas right now. That's the overnight low, sun just now starting to come up. Thank goodness we haven't lost our power here, some have across the state. Waiting to see if my shop is closed again today. Not too bad if you don't have to get out. If we do lose power, I've got natural gas logs I can light up in the fireplace.
If that hum persists, seriously try 12VDC. The first thing that power goes through on that power module is a bridge rectifier. You can't even mess up the polarity that way. Current passes through 2 diodes one way, the other two diodes if you reverse polarity.
If that hum persists, seriously try 12VDC. The first thing that power goes through on that power module is a bridge rectifier. You can't even mess up the polarity that way. Current passes through 2 diodes one way, the other two diodes if you reverse polarity.
Super cool.
Question, if this is producing 24vdc you must be using a different transformer to the one in the Whammy's supply.
One option that would be neat on such a board would be to allow for spacing
to insert discrete Shotky diodes rather than a bridge as you have. They look like they *could* be fit in there but it might be tight.
Also your X cap right after the transformer is still tight if you want to use a 440V-rated one which I've been using. Again that fits in the Whammy design but its really tight - especially if you want to use discrete diodes like the fast Shotkey's.
--Tom
Brrrr! Chilly! Hope the power situation gets resolved quickly.
Lifted the relay board and added a 12Vdc supply and I still have the hum. The only other item, apart from the case, there wasn't present in the test set up is the selector switch. I've checked that for shorts but nothing is presenting itself there either. Very frustrating. I have Thursday off so I'll concentrate on the problem then.
Lifted the relay board and added a 12Vdc supply and I still have the hum. The only other item, apart from the case, there wasn't present in the test set up is the selector switch. I've checked that for shorts but nothing is presenting itself there either. Very frustrating. I have Thursday off so I'll concentrate on the problem then.
Thanks, Ben, but I guess that doesn't solve the problem I am having. I got no sound coming out of my right channel so when I noticed I was missing that resistor I hoped that would do the trick.
does anyone have any suggestions?
Cheers
Daniel
so, Now I think I made it worst, I tested R13, R4, and R15 and I got good readings on R13 and R4 but nothing on R15, them after inspecting the soldering my left channel is gone too. I checked the same resistors on the left channel and R15 on the left channel has not voltage.
Daniel
Nope you can generate 24v DC very easily from the standard 22V transformer like the one I used in the Whammy as 22V AC rectified is around 31V and after the filter caps you are left with well over 24V so plenty of head room. 440V safety cap does not need to be that high. The standard 250V is enough coupled with onboard fuse there is more than enough protection in place. As for Schottkys these are simply not needed. This has been talked about before and there is no real world difference between using Schottkys or general purpose diodes or a bridge IC. You might measure a slight improvement but you would never hear it to benefit from it anyway.
I guess I need to post few pictures to thank Nelson and everyone here to let me start over (after ~10 years missing from these pages) with such a nice project.
Bad pictures I know... I invested in this project rather than in a new phone with a better camera.
The PCB design is by withmatt (post #341) and I got it from iamwhoiam (post #397). I used axial capacitor in C1 and the LM317L as current source as for withmatt suggestion since I couldn't find a match with the J113/resistors I got. The PCB has space for a trimmer in the R4 position and maybe I will play with it in the future.
PCB for PSU is by Gaz2613 but it is the older version of the one you see in post #949.
A big thanks everyone!
What an awesome build! Nice to see builds using my PSU boards. The new design is still the same circuit just compacted and made smaller with added terminal blocks for convenience.
I still need to order the parts kit and chassis for my build but I plan to use the same PSU (Artemis) for my build as well. 😊
A real pleasure working with your board. The only improvement would be what you have already done: making it smaller to have more room to work in HiFi2000 cases with 170 mm depth.
Another nice feature could be having the mounting holes matching the Chassis Baseplates pattern as the PCB in the diyAudio Store.
Either way, I will order more. I think next will be the bipolar version.
Another nice feature could be having the mounting holes matching the Chassis Baseplates pattern as the PCB in the diyAudio Store.
Either way, I will order more. I think next will be the bipolar version.
Good evening.
I did some measuring and got the following results:
DC1 to GND: 10.3V
R18: 340mV
R20: 170mV
R21: 170mV
R4 left: 325mV
R4 right: 340mV
R13 l+r: 1.02V
R15 l+r: 4.8V
Can anyone tell me if the voltages are fine so far? Why is R4 left different from right and is that bad? I do hear some strange noises on the left side from time to time. Not sure why. Any ideas?
Thanks!
I did some measuring and got the following results:
DC1 to GND: 10.3V
R18: 340mV
R20: 170mV
R21: 170mV
R4 left: 325mV
R4 right: 340mV
R13 l+r: 1.02V
R15 l+r: 4.8V
Can anyone tell me if the voltages are fine so far? Why is R4 left different from right and is that bad? I do hear some strange noises on the left side from time to time. Not sure why. Any ideas?
Thanks!
Sorry for such a newbie question. I've built several tube amps, preamps, and a tube phono stage, mostly point-to-point wired, but I have had relatively little experience with PCB construction.
A couple of posts mention using sockets on the PCB in place of R4 to facilitate dialing in the appropriate value. I'm not sure how to find the sockets at Mouser. Does anyone have a part number handy?
A couple of posts mention using sockets on the PCB in place of R4 to facilitate dialing in the appropriate value. I'm not sure how to find the sockets at Mouser. Does anyone have a part number handy?
May depend on the diameter of resistor leads you’re using, but I use one similar to this: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/1705-0-15-15-30-27-04-0/ED1193-ND/434870
I have a question. I'm building a couple ACA amps and I need a preamp. I see the Korg Nutube B1 and the ACP+ are very popular. The Korg kits are out of stock but I can wait if needed as I'd prefer a complete kit vs. sourcing parts for an ACP+ build.
Thoughts on the difference? Ease of build? Sound differences? I'm assuming neither do balanced output xlr based on what I'm seeing (not a deal breaker). Thanks.
Thoughts on the difference? Ease of build? Sound differences? I'm assuming neither do balanced output xlr based on what I'm seeing (not a deal breaker). Thanks.