Schematic shows 1k. Color codes match. Brown, Black, Black, Brown, Brown. It's just a different brand resistor.
When you say your measurements are "confusing", what do you mean? If you mean that the values you measure when the resistors are in-place / mounted to the PCBs; then you will not get a measurement that matches the values of the resistors in many cases b/c there are other parts in parallel with the resistors you are measuring. If you want to verify that all parts are stuffed in the correct locations, it's usually easiest to use the markings as your reference, IMO.
That one you replied about was the only one I was unsure of really. When I say confusing, I'm just getting wildly different values than what is listed on the troubleshooting page. For both the resistance and the voltages. All the resistors measured correctly before stuffing/soldering. Assuming that troubleshooting checks were meant to be done after everything stuffed/soldered? Same values on both sides tho. Just can't figure out why no sound.
I was wondering that as well, I'm guessing the answer is no.
Fortunately for me I was most interested in bridged mode to drive 12 ohm Zu Audio Omen Dirty Weekend 5s, and that is currently working well with my 1.6 and now a 1.8. I took out the snubber resistors today and the pass still sounds snappy. Maybe someday I'll have a preamp with balanced outs but not sure when that will happen.
Interesting note: the speaker pop when I turn the amps off is much quieter now. Would that be due to the lower damping factor? It is louder if I turn the amp on and off quickly.
Hello..I am new to DIY amp building. I see the Amp Camp Amp is sold out. Is there an expected time frame when that will be available again? I see the ACA MinMax is available but I would rather one with a build guide for my first round of this.
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It should be before the end of the year, but it may be first week of January.
@ross51681
I would suggest building an ACA Mini for a first project. There's a build guild and It's very inexpensive. Get that one under you belt and then move on...
I actually prefer the sound of the ACA Mini to an ACA 1.8 but I guess it kind of depends on the speakers you're driving.
I would suggest building an ACA Mini for a first project. There's a build guild and It's very inexpensive. Get that one under you belt and then move on...
I actually prefer the sound of the ACA Mini to an ACA 1.8 but I guess it kind of depends on the speakers you're driving.
@KevinHeem I looked at that one...I would prefer one with a case. I will take that into consideration. Thank you
Hello everyone. I'm building from the v1.8 kit, and had a question I wanted to some input on. I will only use the RCA inputs, and run in stereo mode. Because of this, I want to leave out the XLR input and the 3 position selector switch. I assume I can just leave those out along with the associated wiring. Is that correct?
I drew up a version of what the wiring in my case would look like using the v1.6 (no rear switch) wiring diagram.
I drew up a version of what the wiring in my case would look like using the v1.6 (no rear switch) wiring diagram.
Yes, you can do that and yes, it's going to wire as you show. 🙂
Here is a link to a Neutrik D-series blank, to cover the XKR hole - https://mou.sr/3WaWvtH
That said, I'd suggest just building it as standard, if you ever get a 2nd ACA you can run them as mono blocks, and try both Bridged and Parallel configurations from RCA. And who knows, you may get a balanced DAC in the future and use the XLRs. You've already got the parts.
Here is a link to a Neutrik D-series blank, to cover the XKR hole - https://mou.sr/3WaWvtH
That said, I'd suggest just building it as standard, if you ever get a 2nd ACA you can run them as mono blocks, and try both Bridged and Parallel configurations from RCA. And who knows, you may get a balanced DAC in the future and use the XLRs. You've already got the parts.
Yes. The audio circuit is identical, the switching between modes is the only change, along with the different marking on the back panel
the 1.6 is old enough it uses a 19V? Ok, then get matching PSUs (might as well get 24v) and set the DC balance accordingly on the previously 19V amp.