The colors codes should be -
Blue Grey Silver Gold for the 0.68ohm
Yellow Violet Silver Gold for the 0.47ohm
Most inexpensive DMM have trouble reading accurately below 10-20ohm, and this appears to be reflected in your notes.
If the colors are correct, carry on and don't worry about it, the amp will sound great and just like the other one.
Blue Grey Silver Gold for the 0.68ohm
Yellow Violet Silver Gold for the 0.47ohm
Most inexpensive DMM have trouble reading accurately below 10-20ohm, and this appears to be reflected in your notes.
If the colors are correct, carry on and don't worry about it, the amp will sound great and just like the other one.
Hi, my group makes the ACA kits. The previous light blue large resistors are no longer available so we substituted others of equivalent values. Beginning with Covid the industry supply lines have been extremely inconsistent. Also, manufacturers often add or drop certain products, so over the long run of ACA production, various products have been substituted. We just make sure they are equivalent.
Mark
“Variac”
Mark
“Variac”
I have another question regarding my second ACA 1.8 assembly, and would appreciate any advice: One of the brass standoffs holding the PCB to the heatsink sheared off at the level of the heatsink when I was tightening the nut to attach the PCB. It was not threaded all the way in, and I don't think I was over tightening. In any case, I am wondering if I need to salvage this somehow before soldering the transistors. Since it sheared off at the level of the heatsink, it doesn't link like it will be easy to remove. I realize that without it the PCB will be less well supported, but was wondering if omitting this would likely cause problems.Thanks in advance for advice from anyone.
If you can get the brass bit out with minimum headache, do, and replace the standoff.
If you can’t, the PCB is small enough that the transistors will be able to hold it well enough. Try to keep the wiring dressed in a way that puts minimum force on the PCB and carry on.
If you can’t, the PCB is small enough that the transistors will be able to hold it well enough. Try to keep the wiring dressed in a way that puts minimum force on the PCB and carry on.
I ended up drilling out most of the broken off brass standoff, and friction fitting a cut-off one in the hole. It doesn't thread properly, but it provides enough support for the board. Happy to say the assembled amp works great and now I have a matched pair!