Nobody builds just one...
Muhahahahaha!!
😀 😀 😀 😀 😀
Guilty as charged. I have ordered stuff for the Aleph J, and the ACA is not even here yet!
Nobody builds just one...
Muhahahahaha!!
😀 😀 😀 😀 😀
correct, just done with building the ALEPH 5 mono block's already started on the BZLS and the AMP CAM AMP.
also thinking about what to build next.
looking for amps in the 20 to 30 watt range.
Could someone who has built the ACA and/or F5 give a short description/comparison of the characteristics/sound signature of the Aleph J?
F5 is solid, top to bottom, but boring. The AJ has some of the best mids and highs you will hear, but somewhat loose bottom end. No contest for me. AJ hands down.
Welcome. ACA is the beginner's amp for you. It is easy to assemble its kit, and it is safe [20 V power supply]; per the design philosophy of Mr. Pass. Fussing with Adcom is not for you. It has clear safety markings on its outside [lethal voltage inside] which must be respected by any DIYer; new or seasoned.Hello All,
New to DIY Audio. Soldered a couple of interconnects which is the extent of my experience and my first foray into DIY.
I was thinking about making the ACA or the F5. Is the F5 out of my league as a beginner?
Also, could I reuse an old Adcom GFA-535 for parts and chassis for the ACA? Somewhat limited funds is the reason for the Adcom question. It has a chassis and dual mono toroids with heatsinks and all the other auxillary parts. Is it possible?
Thanks and I love reading these posts!
Enochrome
Nobody builds just one...
Muhahahahaha!!
😀 😀 😀 😀 😀
Ain't that the truth. I have 2 x 4U and 2 x 2U store chassis on order and am thinking about another one or two. Low SAF of a huge rack of amps is holding me back, but I will probably give in. 😛
ACA conjoined monoblocks
...finally finished the ACA chassis: solid bloodwood plank with aqua LEDs. I'd listened to the amp quite a bit before installing it in the chassis and really like it....about a 1/8" gap between the heatsinks and the top. Thanks to diyaudio store for the kit and all here for your previous posts which gave me many ideas for the amps's body...
Mario
...finally finished the ACA chassis: solid bloodwood plank with aqua LEDs. I'd listened to the amp quite a bit before installing it in the chassis and really like it....about a 1/8" gap between the heatsinks and the top. Thanks to diyaudio store for the kit and all here for your previous posts which gave me many ideas for the amps's body...
Mario
Attachments
substitution parts
it must have been asked before but i can not find a clear answer for it.
with what can we substitute the ZTX450 and the LSK170 and what do we have to change with the different parts?
it must have been asked before but i can not find a clear answer for it.
with what can we substitute the ZTX450 and the LSK170 and what do we have to change with the different parts?
thread is having only 1K2 posts 
replace ZTX with any of BC546 , BC547 , BC559 (with any of suffix)
regarding 2SK170BL - it's easy to get it on forum (Spencer , h_a)

replace ZTX with any of BC546 , BC547 , BC559 (with any of suffix)
regarding 2SK170BL - it's easy to get it on forum (Spencer , h_a)
the 1k2 posts is a lot of searching, so, i am thank full for your answer.
the BC's i have here, so that will not be a problem, just have to find out what you mean by "suffix" my english is not all that good.
the 2SK170BL i can get from Spencer, but who is spencer?
by the way, i forgot to thank you for your help with de offset on my alephs, problem is fixed. better late then never, thanks mate.
the BC's i have here, so that will not be a problem, just have to find out what you mean by "suffix" my english is not all that good.
the 2SK170BL i can get from Spencer, but who is spencer?
by the way, i forgot to thank you for your help with de offset on my alephs, problem is fixed. better late then never, thanks mate.

suffix means last part in name - as in BC546A , BC546B ,BC546C .... where it is made for different Beta grades , while for Toshiba Jfets you're having GR , BL , and V - for different current grades
so , reading datasheets is useful praxis
take care that pinout is different for ZTX and BC parts
Spencer and h_a are members here - make a search
diyAudio - Members List
no need for special tnx - we are here for that ....... 😉
so , reading datasheets is useful praxis

take care that pinout is different for ZTX and BC parts
Spencer and h_a are members here - make a search
diyAudio - Members List
no need for special tnx - we are here for that ....... 😉
me being a dumbass when it comes to electronics.
and not knowing what you mean with NPN.
i think it is time for me to learn how to read and understand data sheets.
and not knowing what you mean with NPN.
i think it is time for me to learn how to read and understand data sheets.
most active elactronic parts are coming in two sexes - N and P
that means polarity
useful reading , on line : Basic Car Audio Electronics
if you're interested solely in making an amp , without understanding it deeper , then just follow replies without much questioning
that means polarity
useful reading , on line : Basic Car Audio Electronics
if you're interested solely in making an amp , without understanding it deeper , then just follow replies without much questioning

oke now i am realy lost ZM.
bc559 is one you mentioned and is PNP just as the bc557 is.
the bc456 and bc457 are NPN.
still have to look at the values, but that is a bit confusing.
bc559 is one you mentioned and is PNP just as the bc557 is.
the bc456 and bc457 are NPN.
still have to look at the values, but that is a bit confusing.
most active elactronic parts are coming in two sexes - N and P
that means polarity
useful reading , on line : Basic Car Audio Electronics
if you're interested solely in making an amp , without understanding it deeper , then just follow replies without much questioning![]()
i am not here only to build blindly, i want to learn to.
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