I have not found a lot at reasonable cost from the UK. I looked at these from China (for example) as the basis of a chassis, but will probably now use an old case to start with.
160*32*62mm Full Aluminum E Heatsink /Amplifier Board Radiator DIY 1pcs | eBay
155*50*40mm Full Aluminum E Heatsink For LM3886 TDA7293 Amp Board DIY Radiator | eBay
Anyone else any leads?
160*32*62mm Full Aluminum E Heatsink /Amplifier Board Radiator DIY 1pcs | eBay
155*50*40mm Full Aluminum E Heatsink For LM3886 TDA7293 Amp Board DIY Radiator | eBay
Anyone else any leads?
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I use the Danish RS Components online shop.
This is the UK:
RS Components | Electronic and Electrical Components
Search for "Heatsink" and you can see if you can find one that is suitable. It should be possible. There is a lot of filter options to reduce the search.
This is the UK:
RS Components | Electronic and Electrical Components
Search for "Heatsink" and you can see if you can find one that is suitable. It should be possible. There is a lot of filter options to reduce the search.
you might want to check if they ship to the UK for reasonable cost. heatsink looks good i think:
V 6506G: Profilkühlkörper, 75x160x40mm, 0,9K - W bei reichelt elektronik
V 6506G: Profilkühlkörper, 75x160x40mm, 0,9K - W bei reichelt elektronik
This is the size I used for my ACA and it stays cool enough in our warm summers in SA.
RS Components - Stock no. 189-8684 - 100 x 200 x 40mm heatsink
Got it a lot cheaper un-anodized from Mantech, though.
RS Components - Stock no. 189-8684 - 100 x 200 x 40mm heatsink
Got it a lot cheaper un-anodized from Mantech, though.
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Greetings, all.
I've just received my ACA parts kit and am anxious to get started putting the thing together. Unfortunately, I can't seem to locate the v1.6 schematic and wiring diagram. Could someone please point me to where they are?
I'm new here so forgive me if I'm overlooking something obvious.
Thanks for your help.
I've just received my ACA parts kit and am anxious to get started putting the thing together. Unfortunately, I can't seem to locate the v1.6 schematic and wiring diagram. Could someone please point me to where they are?
I'm new here so forgive me if I'm overlooking something obvious.
Thanks for your help.
Jim (6L6) is working on a new build guide for the V1.6, but it's not available yet. The V1.5 build kit is pretty much the same. Jim added the few differences in post #5075 of this thread.
Here is the V1.5 build guide:
Amp Camp Amp V1.5 Build Guide - diyAudio Guides
Ah, I see. I should just follow the V1.5 schematic while taking into account the changes shown in #5075. Thanks. Question answered.
I am still wondering, though, if there's a wiring diagram somewhere that I could access in order to confirm what I think I'm seeing in the build guide.
No doubt more experienced folks can look at the photos in the guide and easily intuit what's going on underneath and behind other bits of business but what I see is partly clear, partly confusion. That's why I can't help but think a wiring diagram that clearly indicates where each wire begins and terminates would be especially helpful to a total newb like me. Is there such a diagram available or is this just wishful thinking?
Thanks for your patience. (Great site, by the way.)
Got my first one put together. I was super nervous turning it on but it worked!!!
It started off looking pretty clean but turned out pretty sloppy. You can see burn marks on the wires.....
I played some music and it works as far as i can tell, albeit on one speaker. Seems to have no issues but for some reason it doesn't sound as loud as I expected on my 89db sensitive speakers. I have another 15 watt amp and it was way louder so maybe there is an issue going on but I'll wait to figure it out until i get the second monoblock done. I'm sure it will be louder when i got two speakers hooked up.
Thanks for all your help!
It started off looking pretty clean but turned out pretty sloppy. You can see burn marks on the wires.....
I played some music and it works as far as i can tell, albeit on one speaker. Seems to have no issues but for some reason it doesn't sound as loud as I expected on my 89db sensitive speakers. I have another 15 watt amp and it was way louder so maybe there is an issue going on but I'll wait to figure it out until i get the second monoblock done. I'm sure it will be louder when i got two speakers hooked up.
Thanks for all your help!
Attachments
Only time will tell if this build can still be called "idiot-proof" after I take a crack at it.
Monoblock operation sounds muffled?
So my ACA v1.6 monoblock build is complete and working. But one issue Monoblock operation sounds muffled? Are these meant to be only run singled ended? In an earlier thread I posted pictures of both on the bench completed and setup only for balanced operation. I tested it with a McIntosh C47 pre and Polk T15 speakers. Sounded ok but not exemplary (yes I know speakers suck but for a DIY I wasn’t about to test with more $$ units). I added the switch, resistor and wiring for single ended operation. Now I’m testing with an Onkyo preamp (SE RCA) and Polk RT 55 and both still sound the same. Lack if top end clarity and detail. Unfortunately my other speakers Totem Hawks, Kef Q150, Martin Logan Motion 40, Polk LSi25 and LSiM707 are less than 8 ohms and/or not very efficient.
Any suggestions.
So my ACA v1.6 monoblock build is complete and working. But one issue Monoblock operation sounds muffled? Are these meant to be only run singled ended? In an earlier thread I posted pictures of both on the bench completed and setup only for balanced operation. I tested it with a McIntosh C47 pre and Polk T15 speakers. Sounded ok but not exemplary (yes I know speakers suck but for a DIY I wasn’t about to test with more $$ units). I added the switch, resistor and wiring for single ended operation. Now I’m testing with an Onkyo preamp (SE RCA) and Polk RT 55 and both still sound the same. Lack if top end clarity and detail. Unfortunately my other speakers Totem Hawks, Kef Q150, Martin Logan Motion 40, Polk LSi25 and LSiM707 are less than 8 ohms and/or not very efficient.
Any suggestions.
Attachments
Here are some ACA 1.6 wiring photos -
Note that the biggest difference is wiring the PSU to accommodate the front panel power switch. Only the V+ is switched, the pin of the barrel connector is attached via the doubled up wire and goes to the power switch, and the other pin of the power switch connects to each of the amp PCB.
The tab of the barrel connector connects to the ground pad of the amp PCB.
Instead of twisting the two positive DC power wires from the back panel to the front power switch, and running the positives separately from the front power switch to each board, and the grounds from the back panel to the boards, would it make any improvement to twist the positive and ground all the way from the back panel to the front power switch, and also from the front power switch to the boards? Obviously, the ground would be a continuous wire, but you'd have it twisted with the positive on its journey to the front power switch and then back to the PCB.
I noticed that positive and ground were twisted in the 1.5 build, and from a layperson's perspective, I would think that you'd get some noise rejection by twisting the positive and ground the entire length - would it really matter?
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unbalanced rca to balanced xlr
Is there any reason why it wouldn't be a good idea to use this cable from benchmark to go out the unbalanced RCA of my preamp into the balanced XLR in of my soon to build ACAs?
Benchmark RCA to XLRM Adapter Cable for Analog Audio - pin 3 to RCA sh - Benchmark Media Systems, Inc.
Is there any reason why it wouldn't be a good idea to use this cable from benchmark to go out the unbalanced RCA of my preamp into the balanced XLR in of my soon to build ACAs?
Benchmark RCA to XLRM Adapter Cable for Analog Audio - pin 3 to RCA sh - Benchmark Media Systems, Inc.
@JP14 twisting the power cable is unnecessary. The amp has an extremely low noise floor and the power cable doesn’t contribute to much noise, at least in my case. The power cable + feed is doubled up for increased gauge and twisted for aesthetics. I just used larger (lower gauge) copper cables for main power to the switch and the included thicker cables for amp power inputs and speaker level wiring.
I also solved my problem with the holes by labeling over them.
I also solved my problem with the holes by labeling over them.
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