Cabinet C also called Altec 19 from what i found, with vertical slot and XO adjustment in front maybe I am wrong.
Anders
Thx guys
I have ordered Baltic birch ply. should have it before Friday so it looks like weekend is going to be busy... good. For now I'm lining towards 620 cabs with some stands to bring the center of driver to 38" from the floor. I have as well plans for so called stonehange V but those I'm not sure about as my plans asking for 2 layers of 3/4" front baffle - would that make sense?
Crossover will wait until I can hear what I have in proper boxes. who knows may go into active xo... or just simple built the copies of original with better components.
thanks
I have ordered Baltic birch ply. should have it before Friday so it looks like weekend is going to be busy... good. For now I'm lining towards 620 cabs with some stands to bring the center of driver to 38" from the floor. I have as well plans for so called stonehange V but those I'm not sure about as my plans asking for 2 layers of 3/4" front baffle - would that make sense?
Crossover will wait until I can hear what I have in proper boxes. who knows may go into active xo... or just simple built the copies of original with better components.
thanks
I really don't think you need active with these. I've done it and it's just a pain in the butt.
Still don't recommend the original crossover design. You can do better and your ears will thank you for it. It's not so much the quality of the crossover parts as it is the design and parts values themselves.
Still don't recommend the original crossover design. You can do better and your ears will thank you for it. It's not so much the quality of the crossover parts as it is the design and parts values themselves.
You're welcome!
I got an acoustically better plan
Skip the bass robbing stands and make the cabs a full sheet [~60" o.d./58.5" i.d.] high with a double plate top [one flush, the other a full size 'cap' since this is where its 1/4 WL TL pipe modes are highest amplitude, with just a single flush bottom plate since it will be setting very near/on the floor.
This will put the driver 38" up from the floor within the optimal ~0.349-0.424 line offset for smoothest overall response, minimizing the need for internal damping beyond the pioneer's covering the top, one side and back plate.
Ideally, the baffle needs to be > 30" wide to minimize the need for trading efficiency for bandwidth [BW] to tonally balance the lows to mids [baffle step compensation/BSC].
Vent centerline ideally will be height [i.d.] x ~0.848 on down. Note that unless simmed using MJK's or similar software, vent will be [much] shorter than predicted by a vented box program. Side vented like Billfort's is a good plan.
Cab stresses are all vertical, so vertical boards on edge spanning ~70% of length with some on edge boards to tie all six sides together along with a couple of boards on edge to brace the bottom plate is sufficient.
IOW, keep obstruction to vertical airflow to a minimum to maximize TL pipe action damping the vent.
Recommend skipping double baffles unless you plan to very heavily chamfer the opening [> 45 deg] and recommend > 12 deg included even if just a single baffle.
For heavy, deep drivers and especially duplex, best to use a full cradle to both take the stress off of its baffle mounting and provide additional damping: 6moons audio reviews: Stephæn's Altec 604 Dream Speaker
GM
I got an acoustically better plan
Skip the bass robbing stands and make the cabs a full sheet [~60" o.d./58.5" i.d.] high with a double plate top [one flush, the other a full size 'cap' since this is where its 1/4 WL TL pipe modes are highest amplitude, with just a single flush bottom plate since it will be setting very near/on the floor.
This will put the driver 38" up from the floor within the optimal ~0.349-0.424 line offset for smoothest overall response, minimizing the need for internal damping beyond the pioneer's covering the top, one side and back plate.
Ideally, the baffle needs to be > 30" wide to minimize the need for trading efficiency for bandwidth [BW] to tonally balance the lows to mids [baffle step compensation/BSC].
Vent centerline ideally will be height [i.d.] x ~0.848 on down. Note that unless simmed using MJK's or similar software, vent will be [much] shorter than predicted by a vented box program. Side vented like Billfort's is a good plan.
Cab stresses are all vertical, so vertical boards on edge spanning ~70% of length with some on edge boards to tie all six sides together along with a couple of boards on edge to brace the bottom plate is sufficient.
IOW, keep obstruction to vertical airflow to a minimum to maximize TL pipe action damping the vent.
Recommend skipping double baffles unless you plan to very heavily chamfer the opening [> 45 deg] and recommend > 12 deg included even if just a single baffle.
For heavy, deep drivers and especially duplex, best to use a full cradle to both take the stress off of its baffle mounting and provide additional damping: 6moons audio reviews: Stephæn's Altec 604 Dream Speaker
GM
You're welcome!
I got an acoustically better plan
Messing with my plan is always a good plan
Skip the bass robbing stands and make the cabs a full sheet [~60" o.d./58.5" i.d.] high with a double plate top [one flush, the other a full size 'cap' since this is where its 1/4 WL TL pipe modes are highest amplitude, with just a single flush bottom plate since it will be setting very near/on the floor.
This will put the driver 38" up from the floor within the optimal ~0.349-0.424 line offset for smoothest overall response, minimizing the need for internal damping beyond the pioneer's covering the top, one side and back plate.
Ideally, the baffle needs to be > 30" wide to minimize the need for trading efficiency for bandwidth [BW] to tonally balance the lows to mids [baffle step compensation/BSC].
I didn't plan to do baffle any wider then 24-26"
Vent centerline ideally will be height [i.d.] x ~0.848 on down. Note that unless simmed using MJK's or similar software, vent will be [much] shorter than predicted by a vented box program. Side vented like Billfort's is a good plan.
What would be the size of the vent( if sided one or two)?
Cab stresses are all vertical, so vertical boards on edge spanning ~70% of length with some on edge boards to tie all six sides together along with a couple of boards on edge to brace the bottom plate is sufficient.
what would be the depth of the box ~ 18"?
for the box construction _ mitre corners or just butt edge with some jointers? does it matter? is 3/4" plywood still ok?
IOW, keep obstruction to vertical airflow to a minimum to maximize TL pipe action damping the vent.
Recommend skipping double baffles unless you plan to very heavily chamfer the opening [> 45 deg] and recommend > 12 deg included even if just a single baffle.
For heavy, deep drivers and especially duplex, best to use a full cradle to both take the stress off of its baffle mounting and provide additional damping: 6moons audio reviews: Stephæn's Altec 604 Dream
Speaker
I was planning those cradles too...
GM
thanks for the help. really appreciated.
Darius
I found I had to xo higher than expected with my vintage 8H's. Just didn't cut it down around the 1k mark I started at. I am using the Behringer CX2310. I think we found it best up around 1k6 or 1k8 IIRC.
Yeah, only the original 601, 604 had a horn big enough to support an Altec 15" ~1 kHz ideal XO point. Of course one could add an extension to the small horns with the same cross talk trade-off as the originals or go really big like the 12" duplex........
GM
With age and use the T/S parameters of these Altec 604e might have changed. It is probably worth the effort to check the actual T/S parameters before you construct a crossover... tune the bass port... make a large investment... Peace of mind...
ALTEC Data: Model Number: 604E
Xmax(inch) 0.15
Re (ohms) 7.00
Vd(cu. in.) 19.20
Fs(Hz) 27.10
Vas(cu. ft.) 15.75
Ref(%) 3.90
Qts 0.21
Qms 7.10
Qes 0.22
Vid 0.33
Hi, thanks.
I actually have the original xo's and for some reason, I thought it was 1k2.