OK, finally! Since size isn't an issue and your amp's 0.8 ohms output impedance + 0.5 ohms for wiring, etc., bumped Qts up an audible amount I increased it bit [~7.6 ft^3 gross] to get my preferred 30" wide [o.d.] baffle:
H = 58.5"
W = 28.5"
D = 7.875"
driver offset = 24.56" [~34.69" from floor]
vent offset = 49.125"
vent = 4" dia. x 0.75" hole or 1.75" x 7.187" slot
Recommend vertically offsetting the driver, vent at some acoustic or golden ratio to average out the baffle's width eigenmodes a bit, which will require mirror image baffles.
All dims inside [i.d.].
Recommend 18-19 mm BB, apple, bamboo, marine grade plywood or similar high MOE panel [> ~1.8 mil psi].
Any bracing needs to minimize vertical air restriction, so ideally tie all six sides together and brace/support the woofer. Personally just use board scraps and/or cheap closet rod dowels to tie it all together with one acting as the driver brace/support to mimic this or similar, though all the holes can be just a few huge freeform cutouts [pg. 4]: http://frugal-phile.com/boxlib/pensils/Pensil-Series-set-100711.pdf
Damp one side [one closest to driver if offset], top, back with 1" acoustic fiberglass insulation [OC703] or similar at least down to just above the vent to start.
GM
H = 58.5"
W = 28.5"
D = 7.875"
driver offset = 24.56" [~34.69" from floor]
vent offset = 49.125"
vent = 4" dia. x 0.75" hole or 1.75" x 7.187" slot
Recommend vertically offsetting the driver, vent at some acoustic or golden ratio to average out the baffle's width eigenmodes a bit, which will require mirror image baffles.
All dims inside [i.d.].
Recommend 18-19 mm BB, apple, bamboo, marine grade plywood or similar high MOE panel [> ~1.8 mil psi].
Any bracing needs to minimize vertical air restriction, so ideally tie all six sides together and brace/support the woofer. Personally just use board scraps and/or cheap closet rod dowels to tie it all together with one acting as the driver brace/support to mimic this or similar, though all the holes can be just a few huge freeform cutouts [pg. 4]: http://frugal-phile.com/boxlib/pensils/Pensil-Series-set-100711.pdf
Damp one side [one closest to driver if offset], top, back with 1" acoustic fiberglass insulation [OC703] or similar at least down to just above the vent to start.
GM
Greets!
I wouldn't, 13-1600 Hz is considered the 414's upper limit and these begin at 1800 Hz and 'want' much higher to use at 4 kHz-up.
Now got to find Bob's cab dims........
GM
Thanks GM...
Beyma TPL-150 ribbons could work, but considering their price, I think it's still best to stick with compression driver + horn up top. Thanks again!
OK, finally! Since size isn't an issue and your amp's 0.8 ohms output impedance + 0.5 ohms for wiring, etc., bumped Qts up an audible amount I increased it bit [~7.6 ft^3 gross] to get my preferred 30" wide [o.d.] baffle:
H = 58.5"
W = 28.5"
D = 7.875"
driver offset = 24.56" [~34.69" from floor]
vent offset = 49.125"
vent = 4" dia. x 0.75" hole or 1.75" x 7.187" slot
Recommend vertically offsetting the driver, vent at some acoustic or golden ratio to average out the baffle's width eigenmodes a bit, which will require mirror image baffles.
All dims inside [i.d.].
Recommend 18-19 mm BB, apple, bamboo, marine grade plywood or similar high MOE panel [> ~1.8 mil psi].
Any bracing needs to minimize vertical air restriction, so ideally tie all six sides together and brace/support the woofer. Personally just use board scraps and/or cheap closet rod dowels to tie it all together with one acting as the driver brace/support to mimic this or similar, though all the holes can be just a few huge freeform cutouts [pg. 4]: http://frugal-phile.com/boxlib/pensils/Pensil-Series-set-100711.pdf
Damp one side [one closest to driver if offset], top, back with 1" acoustic fiberglass insulation [OC703] or similar at least down to just above the vent to start.
GM
Hello GM.
Apologies for being offline for the past month and not able to thank you in a timely manner.
I do have a few questions:
This is a bass reflex, correct? Not a ML-TL?
(I believe you had recommended the ML-TL for the 406 driver.)
Also, is the speaker depth spec of 7.875" correct? Tall, wide and thin?
Thanks,
Bobo
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